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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2012, 10:03 AM
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Okay hopefully someone is viewing I'm in the middle of plumbing the line in lol, and sorry if this is a relatively easy issue but do I put my brass tee before or after my pressure regulator?

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2012, 10:12 AM
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After. 10 characters
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2012, 10:26 AM
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So just to clarify, I just hook in a three way tee after the regulator and run a line back to the tank? because a couple of my buddies are telling me the if I do that then the pump will just free flow to the tank and never fill the bowl
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2012, 11:53 AM
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Helps to read the whole post. Sorry, after the pump is best.

http://www.4secondsflat.com/fbo_fu1.jpg
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2012, 12:31 PM
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Well I have a factory return line I found and it was just capped off and hidden and it runs all the way up to the front of the engine so would it be bad to just splice in the return in the engine compartment before the regulator? Or should I cut down the hard line back at the pump and run the return from there? And I'm not disagreeing with you but if the line is so close to the pump wouldn't it just pump through the return back to the tank instead of pumping up to the carb since theres no resistance in the return? Sorry I've never done this and I'm just thinking that electricity would take the path of least resistance is that not true with liquid? I just don't want to cut a hard line and find out it won't work I'm not trying to insult anyone, you guys have been a life saver
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:43 PM
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The return is smaller diameter. You are now discussing volume not pressure. It will fill the return in no time.

The pump should hold the necessary pressure after the plumbing has filled. It will not keep circulating without satisfing the regulator.

The needle in the carb will shut when the fuel gets to the level anyaway.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2012, 12:57 PM
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Okay that makes sense, thank you, so about exactly where, shd I cut the hard line and put the return at the pump or would doing it in the engine compartment before the regulator be just fine?
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Old 05-28-2012, 01:03 PM
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My return is part of the regulator. At this point it is your tree , you are sitting in it.

My speculation is that any point between pump and reg will be fine. The return should be smaller diameter and the factory return line might work. If the regulator is still giving you trouble , you can spring load the needle and seat. Then 9 lbs wont knock the needle off the seat.
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Old 05-28-2012, 01:53 PM
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Alright thanx spinn, yeah my supply is 3/8 and the return is 1/4 so I'll get it fixed tonight after work and I'll be sure to post results. Thanks a ton
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Old 05-28-2012, 03:31 PM
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Thanks for picking up this conversation, spinn.

Supercharged03
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2012, 01:35 PM
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Okay so I have the return all plumbed in and it works great, but my problem still persists... I may sound stupid here but are the flaps over the secondaries supposed to be open? Because mine aren't, you would think they would to allow the needed air at WOT. Am I way off base here?
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Old 05-29-2012, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hauss667
Okay so I have the return all plumbed in and it works great, but my problem still persists... I may sound stupid here but are the flaps over the secondaries supposed to be open? Because mine aren't, you would think they would to allow the needed air at WOT. Am I way off base here?
The secondary air valve only opens when the engine is under a load and the primary throttle blades are opened about half way or more. If the AV is adjusted so the spring pressure is too light, it can open too much, too soon- and the result is a bog.

The AV shouldn't open when you jazz the throttle in PARK/neutral. Only when under a load, and at sufficient RPM do you want the AV to open. Also, there shouldn't be a noticeable transition into the secondaries. Many guys think the carb should "bang" into the secondaries, but what's happening is a bog when the secondaries open, followed by the engine 'catching up' to the carb- this gives the impression of acceleration. A timing slip will show otherwise.

You can get a 'feel' for how it's adjusted by pushing the AV open (engine OFF) w/a finger. It should shut w/o hesitation when you let off pressure. After you've been working w/the Q-jet for a while, you will get a feel for how the AV is adjusted just by doing this.

There is an adjustment for the AV spring. Should you want to try different adjustments on the air valve, use a 3/32" allen wrench to loosen the lock screw under the AV spring adjustment. 3/4 of a turn from first contact of the spring is the base setting, changing the setting 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time will get it dialed in.

From HERE:

VIEW OF ADJSTMENT SCREW (green arrow) AND LOCKING SCREW (purple arrow)
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2012, 02:50 PM
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Thanx cobalt, I had a friend come over who just told me everything you just shared so I don't think thats my problem but none the less this thing really went gutless out of nowhere, I didn't do anything other than re-weld an exhaust hanger then went to drive to my girls house and now I can barely pull the little hill outside my driveway
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2012, 02:51 PM
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The secondary air valve only opens when the engine is under a load and the primary throttle blades are opened about half way or more. If the AV is adjusted so the spring pressure is too light, it can open too much, too soon- and the result is a bog.

The AV shouldn't open when you jazz the throttle in PARK/neutral. Only when under a load, and at sufficient RPM do you want the AV to open. Also, there shouldn't be a noticeable transition into the secondaries. Many guys think the carb should "bang" into the secondaries, but what's happening is a bog when the secondaries open, followed by the engine 'catching up' to the carb- this gives the impression of acceleration. A timing slip will show otherwise.

You can get a 'feel' for how it's adjusted by pushing the AV open (engine OFF) w/a finger. It should shut w/o hesitation when you let off pressure. After you've been working w/the Q-jet for a while, you will get a feel for how the AV is adjusted just by doing this.

There is an adjustment for the AV spring. Should you want to try different adjustments on the air valve, use a 3/32" allen wrench to loosen the lock screw under the AV spring adjustment. 3/4 of a turn from first contact of the spring is the base setting, changing the setting 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time will get it dialed in.

From HERE:

VIEW OF ADJSTMENT SCREW (green arrow) AND LOCKING SCREW (purple arrow).
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