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Old 04-20-2011, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
Sorry for being such a hard ars. Bad day for me.

Brian
No offense taken mate

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Old 04-20-2011, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TucsonJay
I spoke too soon. If it is factory paint, then the pressure probably just exceeded what it will stand up to.

Contact the dealership and see who does their repairs. That might be a good place to start, since they would be more familiar with how to repair that particular paint than others.

Good thinking - will do
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Old 04-20-2011, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mud bros
be thankful you didn't cut the car in half thats a big machine
The first day I had it I was holding the lance by my side and shot myself in the ankle - it damn near cut me open
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Old 04-20-2011, 08:52 PM
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I was afraid you'd already gotten the GT6 to the point of painted and had a mistake. The advice of checking with the dealership is what I'd suggest as well. If their advice doesn't suit you well, ask your detailer if he has a painter he uses.
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Old 04-21-2011, 05:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclopsblown34
I was afraid you'd already gotten the GT6 to the point of painted and had a mistake. The advice of checking with the dealership is what I'd suggest as well. If their advice doesn't suit you well, ask your detailer if he has a painter he uses.
Nope, it'll be a little while before I get the triumph painted
Got quite a hectic life at the moment

I'll be using single stage on the GT6
Itll be my first paint job, and everyone has recommended I use a single stage solid colour

It might change at the last minute, but so far it's gonna have a red colour scheme
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Old 04-21-2011, 08:47 AM
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pressure washer..

Hi,i pressure washed some bugs off of the hood on my new Chevy HHR, the clear coat came off in a place about the size of the bottom of a small cup,i took it to the Chevy DEALER,the base coat was still good,they clear coated the entire hood,and it looks perfect.
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:00 AM
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Bob, they may have simplified the process on the work order but they most certainly didn't just apply more clear, it's an impossibility, plain and simple. The clear had to be sanded and feathered at the very least at the peeled area, this process would damage the base coat and the base coat would have to be re-applied in that area at the very least before clear could be applied over the rest of the hood.

There is absolutely no way you could have peeled clear coat off a base and apply only clear and make it look right, there is no way, it is an impossibility.

And if someone wanted to prove me wrong and block the clear around edge of the peeled area and then apply clear and sand it flat and buff it or something like that it would take WAY longer than simply applying more base over that area. And even if one were to take the time to try and do it you would VERY, VERY likely be able to see the damage thru the clear no matter who careful you were.

Brian
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:48 AM
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Is it possible that I could have blown off some of my clear coat - but not have any additional lifting around the area?

From what I recall there is definitely lifting where I shot my mirror
But I can't remember there being any lifting on the bumper

There is a good possibility that I'm completely wrong
I don't know how much (if anything) you can "get away with" when it cones to this sort of thing

There could be a tiny amount of lifting that looks insignificant (or almost invisible) to me, but to the trained eye, could be a big problem

What do you think?
Is it even possible, or is there definite lifting?

I'll post pictures shortly
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Old 04-21-2011, 10:19 AM
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The fact that the clear peeled off is the evidence that it has poor adhesion. It isn't going to have such poor adhesion to come off JUST in that one area and a quarter inch away have good adhesion.

Brian
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Old 04-21-2011, 02:24 PM
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Brian,

Can you explain to me why it is not possible to simply clear over a spot and then buff the overspray etc?

I'm by no means questioning what you have told me
I'm just trying to educate myself

I accept what you tell me - I just don't understand it

I know you'll only be touching the surface of this subject
But any knowledge you can share is very much appreicated
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Old 04-21-2011, 03:39 PM
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Why do I think that this is going to be more of a project then scuffing and reapplying CC. Once that CC hits the already too thin clear remaining the solvents will try to dissolve and lift the rest of the original. Factory CC's are measured in microns thickness (50-100), just enough to make the BC shine vs a body shop or home paint job where it is usually much more . The Porsche probably has a BASF (Germany) product, might have a water based paint and CC. The body shop owner possibly knows this already and really isn't interested in a patch job that might come back and bite him where he sits.

Good luck with any partial repairs on a CC

Dave W
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Old 04-21-2011, 05:03 PM
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Thanks for the reply Dave

So, the reason it can't be 'patched' is due to a chemical reaction between the existing and new clear coat?

Btw - the bodyshop quoted 300 (English money) to do a full respray on the front bumper

So, the cost isn't even an issue - that sounds more than reasonable to me

I'm just keen to understand why a 'repair' would be 'impossible'

Also, what questions should I ask the bodyshop before giving them the nod?
Should I concern myself with what types of paint they use, or is that of no concern?
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2011, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ant_8u
Brian,

Can you explain to me why it is not possible to simply clear over a spot and then buff the overspray etc?

I'm by no means questioning what you have told me
I'm just trying to educate myself

I accept what you tell me - I just don't understand it

I know you'll only be touching the surface of this subject
But any knowledge you can share is very much appreicated
The overspray won't "melt" into that cured clear. That is the first problem, second will be if you clear over that edge where the peel stopped it will be seen, magnified. Third, think about it, you need three mils or so film thickness. So that blend goes from three mils to NOTHING. That one coat laying over the top of the old clear isn't even one coat it ends up at the edge as being zero coats. So being it needs the 3 mils to hold up to weather and such as it thins out to zero mils you can see that it isn't going to hold up. A decent painter can make it look pretty good as you leave the shop, but in a very short while you will see it. And didn't you say it was black, I seem to remember that. Pulling this off in black would be akin to bending steel with your mind.

Listen, that hood is so small, what is the big deal about just doing it right?

Brian
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Old 04-22-2011, 04:42 AM
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Thanks Brian
I'm starting to get an understanding

And yes, I do intend to do the job properly
I just couldn't figure out why a 'patch' wasn't proper

Added to the fact the guy at the body shop was just "No, no, no" with out any explanation didn't really help me

It's thanks to people such as yourself which makes this forum the excellent resource which it is

I don't mind spending money on the car, I want it to be as good as can be
This car is by no means the most 'exotic' in my collection, but it was the first sports car I bought, so it has a special place in my heart

I was unsure if a full spray would damage it's resale?
Not that I ever plan on selling it, but you never know what's around the corner

I've taken some (poor quality) pictures, so I'll get them posted up now
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Old 04-22-2011, 04:52 AM
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Ok then.....

First picture is of the front bumper (fender)
It's on the side of the bumper, just in front of the left wheel




Second picture is of the left hand mirror when looked down upon from the front




These parts had glue on them when I removed the vinyl stone guard

I used my pressure washer to blast the glue off and this is the result

I had the pressure washer about 1-2cm away from the surface, and used hot water

My lesson has been very much learned
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