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Old 05-27-2013, 08:05 PM
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Just pure frustration at this point..

Ok guys..just looking for some advice or insight. Either one at this point can't hurt lol. 2 questions..first one is, I am finding condensation under the valve covers and on the rockers and stud girdles. I went and checked the head bolts and there were a few that had to be re-torqued. The oil still has normal coloration, except for a few spots around a head bolt or two, and around the valve cover. I have read on here and a few other forums that this is some-what "normal". I have never had this issue with any other motor I have had, so it is kind of freaking me out a bit. I have WAY too much invested in this thing to just say "eh it'll be ok.

Second question is about the cam/ or carb possibly. It just does not seem to pull hard enough/nor high enough RPM wise. Is it worth trying to advance the cam a few degree's or just go a different route cam wise. It was not my desire to run this cam originally, but long story short, in it went. We seem to be running lean on the top end right now. I bumped up the jets to 84's, after doing a "real" plug check and it still seems to be running lean on the top end. We currently have the power valve blocked off. Is it worth throwing a power valve in to try to cure this?

Here are the specs on the motor. Thanks guys

Brand new SBC 400 circle track engine. (well now it has a night on it) Dart SHP block. Dart 215 heads. Port matched edelbrock super victor intake. Roughly 13.5:1 compression ratio. Holley 4412. Flat tappet..duration 284/293 duration @.050 258/264 lobe lift 373/379 lobe separation 107...

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Old 05-27-2013, 08:26 PM
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2 bbl carb needs a special cam.I hope fuel delivery volume is good at High RPM?advancing the cam brings the RPM down,not up.Is this a new combination?
who ported the intake and why?
Thats a big intake for a 406 with a 2 bbl
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:31 PM
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I do not currently have a fuel pressure guage hooked up to it. Finding the moisture under the valve covers freaked me out enough. That is a good possibility though. It has a carter mechanical fuel pump on it now. I will have to hook up a guage to it though to tell you what the psi is at high rpm. The intake came with the heads and was port matched from the previous owner.
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:36 PM
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I would flow test the heads and intake for a race car,for sure. I would have the extra duration on the intake side of the cam,,,look at A.S.A. cams.Not a brand name,the same "profile Types" that the guys use for the 390 CFM mini 4 bbls.
Its not fuel pressure I would check as much as fuel volume.
Are you using 1/2" or bigger fuel lines from your fuel cell?
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:46 PM
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OK that may be something I will have to look into. OK I will give them a look. It is "AN 8" it's the blue line, without the steel braiding on the outside of it.
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:38 PM
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May sound like a dumb question but did you pressure test the cooling system? It shouldn't lose a psi even if left overnight. May have a small leak in a gasket somewhere.
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:53 PM
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AN-8 is the carb fitting.The line from the fuel cell to the pump needs to be big. The cam needs to help that little carb.
Is the carb modified at all?,flow test that too
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:33 PM
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As far as condensation, did you wash the motor down with water? Sometimes water gets in through the valve covers, etc. (PVC valve, breathers). I would run the engine to operating temperature and check to see if the condensation burned off. If not, I'd drain the oil, replace the filter and go from there. As far as the weak top end, your not going to get much top end performance with a 2 bbl. If you change out the manifold and carb to a 4 bbl, that engine will come alive. If your still getting condensation, it could be the intake manifold gasket or a hairline crack, and not necessarily the heads. Something to consider?
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:45 PM
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kleen 56

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Originally Posted by kleen56 View Post
As far as condensation, did you wash the motor down with water? Sometimes water gets in through the valve covers, etc. (PVC valve, breathers). I would run the engine to operating temperature and check to see if the condensation burned off. If not, I'd drain the oil, replace the filter and go from there. As far as the weak top end, your not going to get much top end performance with a 2 bbl. If you change out the manifold and carb to a 4 bbl, that engine will come alive. If your still getting condensation, it could be the intake manifold gasket or a hairline crack, and not necessarily the heads. Something to consider?
probably a carb rule,read what the engine has inside
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:59 PM
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Well...after checking the cam tonight it looks like the #5 exhaust lobe was starting to go. Every other lobe checked out fine, but that one was over .060 lower that it was supposed to be..confirming my fears.

So now any new cam recommendation are being considered.

I had not pressure checked the coolant system yet. That was planned, until I found this problem tonight. Now the heads will be pressure checked and gone through. They were "checked right before I bought them". Well we know how that goes.

How big of line does the line need to be from the fuel cell to the pump? Not trying to sound retarded. I just figured that was an adequate size line..

No I haven't washed the motor with water. I have been pretty anal about not getting the car wet at all, besides the careful occasional wipe down/wash.

Yes the carb is only that small because of the rules. I would love to be able to run a bigger carb, but the drive to the track where we could run a bigger carb, just isn't worth it.
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:10 PM
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fuel line= 1/2 diameter or bigger. use an ASA type cam that best suits your combination.
when you get the engine on a stand you will have a better idea when you see the parts.What RPM range are you hoping to attain? How many horses?
we need the flow numbers on your parts
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:16 PM
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Ok cool. Thanks. That's something I'll have to change. Need to turn close to 7k..atleast 6800. 500ish horses. Or as many as we can get out of the carb. Whichever comes first.
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:29 PM
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read the rules on carb mods.post a link,Im curious.
what size are the header tubes?have you had any chasis dyno time?
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:23 AM
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Carbs must pass go-no go gauges. Headers are 1 3/4 in tubes. No chassis dyno time, we will get some after I deal with this cam

Rules--http://fwrace.com/StockCars/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/2013-Street-Stock-rules.pdf
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:43 PM
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Steel bell housing or scatter shield is highly recommended???
I would think that item should be mandatory?

the rules look basic.Im sure there are many places to tweak the performance,,,
Maybe ask techinspector(Richard) about a roll cage for your application
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