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Old 04-09-2009, 01:05 PM
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k5 brakes problem

hello guys!

i replaced pads and front flexible hoses to my '81 k5 Blazer, cleaning old oil everywhere and replaced with new one.

after replacing parts i bleeded the system but unluckly the right rear wheel screw is blocked

the problem is that now brake pedal travels to the floor almost completly and blazer doesn't brake!

can you help me please?
thank you very much!

Fabio

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Old 04-09-2009, 01:10 PM
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The local parts house will have replacement bleeder screws.

Hopefully, none have broken off when you loosened them?

If not, you will be good to go w/a replacement, if you don't feel like cleaning out the old one with a drill bit slightly smaller than the original hole.
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:50 PM
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no hopefully no but i don't know if the problem could be just this or other important parts as nmaster cylinder or others
thanks for answer
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cerry
no hopefully no but i don't know if the problem could be just this or other important parts as nmaster cylinder or others
thanks for answer
If you had good pedal before replacing the pads, you will get at least the same pedal feel after you correctly bleed the brakes.

There will be a good amount of air in the lines after replacing the hoses, unless steps were taken to minimize this.

Start w/the wheel farthest from the MC (RR) and work towards it. L front last.
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:43 PM
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ok i just must keep out damned blocked bleeder RR!

but a thing is strange...when i push down pedal brake, the oil reservoir assembly rizes up a little. precisly the rear part of oil reservoir assembly.
rear part is the rear part of brake circuit?!
what is it?
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Old 04-09-2009, 07:06 PM
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The largest reservoir is going to be for the disc brakes, be it front or back. (Yours is in the back, IIRC.)

You are seeing the fluid being bypassed/returned to the reservoir. Means nothing at this point.

If the bleeder is stuck, use caution. This might come too late to help you, but what I've done in the past to loosen a stuck bleeder is:

1. Use PB Blaster on it (spray penetrating fluid, works like magic). Spray it well, then wait for at least 10-15 minutes, repeat.

2. Insert a tight-fitting length of metal (drill bit is good, nail will work- but it has to be a tight fit) into the bleeder hole to help prevent the bleeder from twisting right off as soon as you try to turn it.

3. Use a 6-point socket or box-end wrench and hope for the best.

In some cases heat can be applied- but this plays heck on rubber seals inside the slave- so use sparingly if at all. The bleeder will be even weaker hot.

A firm tap on the end of the bleeder-like driving a nail- can sometimes help break one loose. Don't hit so hard that you cause the metal to fold over the hole, keeping you from inserting your length of metal into the hole.

Good luck.
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Old 04-09-2009, 07:12 PM
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k-5 brake problems

I'm having trouble with mine. No fluid to the left front cyl, all the others work great. I'm thinking the prop. valve under the radiator no the frame. any I-d r 's
p.s. has set up for over a year
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Old 04-09-2009, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lanier ledford
I'm having trouble with mine. No fluid to the left front cyl, all the others work great. I'm thinking the prop. valve under the radiator no the frame. any I-d r 's
p.s. has set up for over a year
Fair to good chance that due to sitting up, water in the fluid has corroded the piston in the caliper (or piston(s) in the slave, if drums), and it's just not moving.

Or, is there no fluid w/the bleeder backed way out? Bleeded could be plugged- try removing it.

What vehicle?
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Old 04-09-2009, 08:02 PM
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hi there, well maybe some of this may help possibly:

alot of the times when i bleed i remove the bleeder screw completely and bleed with thumb over the hole, same as i do with master cylinders often

works fine so as long as you dont allow air to suck in past your thumb on the pedal upstroke

this way you can tell whether you really are getitng fluid and good pressure and volume or not.


and dont have a bad bleeder screw

brakes can be a real PITA

make sure you dont have a leak somewhere such as a rotted rear frame line or axle tube line, in which is very common.

you either have a leak or a TON of air in the system still somewhere

make sure you are holding the pedal down and then opening the screw and then tightening it back up before letting the pedal up again

it will take alot of times doing this to start to get fluid dribble and then finally air coming out and then finally no air anymore

make sure the master cylinder is completely bled of all air first or you will never get it anyways

bleed it first

how i do it is disconnect both lines off the master. have someone push the pedal down all the way then put my thumbs over the ports real good and let them let the pedal up. then do the same again a few more times.

done.

now bleed the lines out at the brakes


when done wash the brake fluid off the truck chassis real good.

good luck

Last edited by fast68; 04-11-2009 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 04-10-2009, 05:52 AM
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thanks for answer guys!
the vehicle is '81 k5 blazer.
i don't think there are leak 'cause i just replaced pads and flexible hoses.

i disconnected solid hoses from master cylinder. i cleaned them with compress air making attention to all lines.

i reconncted flexible hoses to soild hoses tightening without too much forced.
there is no oil leakage

i think and surely i hope, the problem is just damned blocked bleeder
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Old 04-10-2009, 07:24 AM
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Worst case scenario is you will have to replace the slaves (should do both sides).

Good news is, they're cheap compared to many brake parts.

Also keep in mind that in a rock/hard place situation you can bleed the slave by using the brake line fitting at the slave cylinder.

Post if it comes down to this and someone will run the procedure down for you.
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Old 04-10-2009, 10:07 AM
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actualy i'm still tryin' to force bleeder, otherwise i will bleed oil directly from line, hoping it is not so blocked as bleeder
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Old 04-10-2009, 10:11 AM
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Because you're in Europe, I have no idea if you can even get PB Blaster brand penetrating fluid- but if you can, it may really help.

But do try to use something along that line.
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Old 04-10-2009, 12:15 PM
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you said a perfect thing cobalt!
i'm in Europe and here if i have not a BMW or Merceds or some european car, nobody knows nothing!
do yuo believe that here i can't find inches tools?!?!?

incredible! the government wants that people buy eurpean cars and even more Fiat, when the same money I could buy a mustang!

however...ehy friends! bleeder released!

finally! air and so much s**t from hole!
actualy brake pedal runs better but i think there still is too much lash.
then i saw that when plastic reservoir assembly rises, some oil comes out of the gasket that holds it connected to the master cylinder.

ehy thanks again for help!
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Old 04-10-2009, 06:13 PM
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I'm happy we could lend a hand, you are welcome any time!
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