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Old 07-15-2007, 10:38 AM
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kandy re sprays

Hi guys

a quick question. On an all over kandy re spray, I am using UK05 over gold metajules, over tinted KO Seal(tinted with KK Spanish Gold).

When do I spray the door shuts & wing edges etc? Do I do them before the main job then reverse mask them, or do I do them with the main body paint? Is there a dange of getting the edges darker? if so how do I get around this?

Thanx

Steve.

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Old 07-16-2007, 06:51 AM
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Spray the exterior assembled for perfect coverage and match, then mask the exterior and shoot the jambs, keep the gold from going right to the edge of the jamb and also the midcoat then bring the clear to the edge of the jamb. Do all of this before you colorsand and buff the exterior. Candies suck for doing the jambs without any paint lines but it can be done if your setup is right. Many panel paint so they can shoot the jambs and edges at the same time as the exterior but there usually ends up being unequal coverage and mismatches when the car gets reassembled(99% of the time IMO)-some feel the mismatch is acceptable but I'd much rather have a perfect exterior and deal with the hassle of shooting the jambs seperately. I usually shoot the exterior and let the paint go in the jambs 1-2" then when I shoot the jambs I use that 1-2" along the edge to blend then clear to the edge-hope this makes sense. If done right you won't have any tape lines.
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Old 07-16-2007, 10:46 AM
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Thanks Bob

yes it all makes sense. The only thing that worries me is that the last time I tried to re shoot a base over UC35 in less than a week it wrinkled. Is this the only way to do an exterior & the jambs? Also, do I still use the UK05 kandy in the Jambs?

I am thinking now about doing the whole job inside & out at the same time right up to the metajules. Then close the doors, hood, trunk etc & kandy the outside but do all the jambs when I get to my 2 final coats of UC35. Then I could touch up the jambs after the color sand but before the final flow coats.

Does that sound like a viable plan? Oh also, do you think I should use the Sata mini jet for the jambs as they are much smaller?

Oh my head hurts!! ha ha
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Old 07-16-2007, 12:32 PM
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Thats possiable Steve. The problem with doing the jambs & such first, is you can have a mismatch of the outside kandy color and then what do you do.
I like Bob, do mine last and this way I'm assured of it matching. You can use the UK or KK/Intercoat if thats easier for you. Thats what KK's are for basically,color matching interior or under areas out of direct sun. The Minijet will be a good choice as it sprays nice and clearing with one is great as well.You'll just have to keep an eye on the match as your spraying cause your using a different gun and likely,different psi which will effect the color per coat build.
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Old 07-16-2007, 12:59 PM
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Ok, now I feel like I am gettin my head around it. So the KK's will match the UK's?

I have to say I thought the flake job was scarey but kandy is something else. I have watched the Jon Kosmoski dvd over & over, I need to feel like I painted that car ha ha. I imagine my arms will be aching when I am finished. He passes that roof alone 38ish times per coat & its about a 14 coat job!
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Old 07-16-2007, 04:41 PM
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I agree with Mike, use a touchup gun on the jambs to have the most control where your paint is going. Also keep in mind you can shoot the inside edges of the doors and underside of the decklid before you shoot the exterior. The only challenge areas are the rockers and quarter panel to door jamb, the decklid opening, and the cowl and hood opening jambs. The underside of the decklid can be masked off prior to shooting the exterior. I'd avoid trying the shoot it all at once while opening and closing the doors etc.-this usually makes for mistakes and a candy job takes enough concentration just to get the exterior right so there's no sense adding more stress by trying to shoot all at once. The KK dyes are the same as UK dyes so they match just fine.
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Old 07-17-2007, 02:40 AM
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Ok.Thanks for that guys. I will get practicing on a spare hood.

I am using a Devilbiss GTi gun, 1.4 tip set, 110 air cap. Do I need the 6" fan & shoot 6" from the car. Also do I reduce the fluid adjustment, how much, half way?

It's strange I have been painting collision stuff for at least 15yrs & hardly ever adjusted my gun. I use a full fan & control my delivery with my trigger finger. I guess kandy is far more demanding!
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Old 07-17-2007, 06:19 AM
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Trigger control is good but on this job you might want to dial in the trigger stop just for added consistancy, use the fan size you feel comfortable with. Plan on walking the whole side of the car and watch your sail panels and windshield posts for coverage-sometimes they get to much in the overlap area and end up dark there, also watch to make sure you get good coverage on the rocker panel bottoms-it's common when applying many coats that the painter forgets a few passes on the bottom of the rockers and it ends up being light. Watch your flash times-if you don't give enough time you can get small runs going on the panel edges and they'll end up darker. Definately do that practice hood or just a test panel so you get a feel for how many coats need to be applied.
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Old 07-17-2007, 10:06 AM
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thanks for that advice.

I had a thought today. My customer wants his car a blue kandy with a sparking base underneath, hence the metajules(I thought)

Could I shoot it: silver KO seal tinted with say kk21 majestic kandy, then gold metajules x3 coats & followed by 5 coats uk05 cobalt or UK21 majestic topped with UC35? Would blue below & on top kill the metajules?

If the above does not make sense then how is the best way for a novice kandy painter like me to achieve my customers spec? I also thought of the KBC range buy they are not sparkley enough!
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Old 07-17-2007, 11:25 AM
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I'll try to find Jim. He knows this HOK stuff inside out and can give you the BEST advice on what your after.
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Old 07-17-2007, 12:25 PM
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well, i haven't used the metallic ko seal. i usually mix a light grey and put orion on top. one of the bikes i did somewhat recently was exactly what you are doing. the pale gold metajules with cobalt on top. for that bike i did just what i stated above. mixed up a light grey koseal using white and black then shot about 4 coats of orion silver on top then about 3 coats or so of the pale gold for the sparkle. i let it all flash off then did about 9 coats of cobalt. you aren't going to shoot the cobalt in 5 coats without blotchin the hell out of it. you need to break that up into twice that. put the color on slow as that color like to blotch a bit. good thing is, its a dark color so if you do get some darker areas they are very hard to see. you'll almost never see it outside in the sun. the lower the light level the more you will notice blotchiness. if you tint the orion or end up going over a metallic blue it will be easier to spray however it will be an even darker blue when done. i posted a couple pics for you to see. the darker blue is cobalt over the pale gold and orion. its a studio shot so you cant see the sparkle but its definately there in the sun. the lighter one is majestic over the same thing, orion and pale gold.
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Old 07-17-2007, 01:27 PM
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Ok, food for thought & great pics!!

On the metajules, Jon kosmoski says on the dvd to get it on wet, wet it up he says. My UK HOK rep says dust it on, its like spraying flake he said. Whats the process on this?

Sorry for so many questions, I really need to get my head around this way of painting before I commit this re paint.
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Old 07-17-2007, 03:06 PM
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spray it like you would any other base. thats what it is, super thin flake in a clear basecoat. i wouldn't dust it on since you would be left with flakes sticking up. dont hose it either. nice medium wet coats and give plenty of flash time. give plenty of flash with all this stuff. when doing candy jobs you are piling coat after coat. after you get all your base on let set overnight before you put on any urethane.
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Old 07-18-2007, 01:31 PM
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Done a test hood today. It all went on ok thanks to you guys! The kandy had a few faint stripes but not bad for a noob ha ha. Oh also, I mixed the kandy wrong, I did 2:1:30%. What a moose, I read the mixing cup wrong.

I have to say though, out in the sun I was not that impressed! It just looks like coarse metalic blue . I could reach that type of effect with lots of less hassel(13 coat job). It's not really a show stopper colour! And its a show car it is going on. I still want to master kandy but not sure if this is the effect my customer wants. Those HOK little swatches look soooo go, but on a whole panel some look quite ordinary. Oh well back to the drawing board.

Any ideas guys?
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Old 07-18-2007, 01:52 PM
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thats odd. i think the swatches dont do it justice compared to on the car or bike. generally it is a metallic blue job only difference is in the depth and intensity.
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