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Old 11-29-2009, 07:35 PM
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kill switch

I want to put in a battery kill switch, but need the rest of the electrical to stay on so I don't have to reset my gauges and radio (obviously not NHRA style)
How would I run the switch so that only the ignition and starter are affected by it?
I was thinking of putting a battery kill switch in between the fuse panel and the ignition, I'm also looking at setting up just an ignition toggle and push button starter. So that is why I was thinking of a battery kill with a removable key instead of a toggle. The stock ignition is worn down and the key is nice and smooth, and the door locks were both busted, so they key is not needed for anything else.

http://www.thehotrodcompany.com/shop...oduct_id=2987F

Last edited by Scotto; 11-29-2009 at 07:39 PM. Reason: link added
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Old 12-01-2009, 08:36 PM
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put the kill switch in the battery main positive lead , but make a pigtail to connect the terminals on the back with a ato blade type fuse holder and put a 30 amp fuse in it , that will keep all the clocks and radio presets working , when you turn the switch off but if someone trys to start the car it will blow and nothing will work till you replace the fuse ,speedway sells the kit but you can cobble it up for the price of the inline fuse holder and some ring terminals you buy at Napa
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Old 12-01-2009, 08:56 PM
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I would not use a 30 amp fuse, you would be better off with a lighter fuse. The reason being, if I get your drift, you want to keep some clown from steeling your ride and a 30 amp just might get it started. Use a 2 amp that would be plenty to keep the digital stuff from dumping it's memory and a 2 amp will blow if started saving your ride .
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Old 12-02-2009, 07:20 AM
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You only need a 1 or 2 amp fuse to retain memory in electrical devices. You can accomplish this by simply running a #18 AWG wire from the positive side of the battery with a 1 or 2 amp fuse to a junction block under your dash then wires to each electrical device. The light fuse is sufficient to maintain the memory, but if anyone tries to hot wire your car the fuse will blow.

Vince
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Old 12-02-2009, 07:52 AM
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Thanks for the help. Would I also be able to power my fuel pump from the same block, or would that be too much current or whatever drawn from the small fuse?

Because I was thinking of doing a junction block with my air setup, radio and 3 gauges, fuel pump, and power door locks.

Or would I be better doing 2 junction blocks, one with the 2 amp for the ignition, and a standard one from the fuse panel?
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Old 12-02-2009, 08:40 AM
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Fuel pump needs a much heavier fuse, would not power it from electronic memory circuit. It needs a dedicated circuit IMO.

Vince
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Old 12-02-2009, 08:35 PM
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If you have a battery kill switch, why wouldn't you just run a wire from the positive side of the switch to the things you want to keep hot. Maybe to the fuse panel so it will already be fused or if direct to the application put an in-line fuse in?
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