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Old 04-24-2005, 04:58 PM
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king pins twin I beam 79 F250

can anyone give me a step by step for replacing the king pins on my 79 ford f 250 camper special single piston calipers
please give my the worst case scenario

i dident think king pins could fail but after 300'000 miles im afraid to even go get parts
thanks a bunch
sr66

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Old 04-24-2005, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
please give my the worst case scenario
Worst case scenario? Pins frozen and you have to drop axles to take to machine shop for press.

You really need the proper shop manual to replace pins if you have never done it. If the kit has bronze bushings, you will need a very expensive reamer to align them. If you are lucky, a kit with nylon bushings will be available.
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Old 04-24-2005, 06:27 PM
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http://www.fordification.com/discbrakes01.htm

SCROLL about half way down.....

let me know if that doesn't help any.
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Old 04-24-2005, 06:39 PM
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actually, the kingpin info starts at the bottom of that first page.
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Old 04-24-2005, 10:45 PM
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weellllll isn't that dandy i was just under there w/ the radius arm bushings not long enough ago .just think i could have saved those rivets. I would have gone all the way but im outdoors on concrete with a tarp structure and a gang of lookie Lou's nosy ,code enforcement calling ............stupid neighbors w/ nuthin else better to do ..cept me
im not manly enough any more for the BFH routine but the rest seems simple ......let some one else do it

i know whats gonna happen after this the motors gonna puke Ive never been inside except i replaced the timing gears and chain because the water port was leaking
man hats off to you guys thank you very much ya'll knew right where to go and how to get there. i'll send a post card
pictures after i get a new P C this ones junk
thanks again
rob
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Old 05-27-2005, 09:01 PM
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sorry wrong thread
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Last edited by Rob Keller; 05-27-2005 at 09:04 PM. Reason: wrong thread sorry
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Old 05-28-2005, 12:24 AM
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king pin woes

so i take it to the local guy the only one in the area who has the stuff to do it and he totaled my i beam

picture this 1 guy holding a torch on my i beam until its RED HOT CHERRY FREAKING RED and 3 guys w/a crescent wrench and a 4 ' piece o pipe taking turns @ this king pin "the hardest he's seen in 30 years" for over a hour they are pulling and pushing the pullers screaming groaning and popping and im thinking" man o man this is one tight rusted mother glad i diden't try to do it my self" and then out of the blue....clank pink pink....... the king pin just falls out on the floor for the next hour he spends tring to get the push pin out w/ a heavy air hammer .now im realizing hes used the wrong push pin so i paid my$300. and left with it worse than when i went in!!
now i go in e bay buy the king pin puller /pusher set and the bushing tools ..got out bid on the reamers when i get the king pin tool i definitely know he used the wrong one because i have the right one
IDIOTS now i have to track down an drivers side i beam or have that one fixed i think ill replace it so i can throw no make a cross bow that will shoot it through his shop office

now im here to tell ya if you want it done right DO IT YOURSELF!! i will post some pictures of the horror on the next leg of my journey

the horror
THE HORROR like i got money to burn
sr66
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Old 05-28-2005, 08:08 AM
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WHAT year i beam do you need? I have one from a 75 sitting on the floor, and a 67 that i could pull. yours for the cost of shipping.
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Old 05-28-2005, 10:53 AM
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When you need suspension work done and the first thing the mechanic pulls out is the hot wrench...RUN!

Once that axle end turned red, it was no good.

The 'Ol Heat And Beat Boys are still with us...
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Old 05-28-2005, 12:54 PM
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King Pin Kits

Quote:
Originally Posted by KULTULZ
Worst case scenario? Pins frozen and you have to drop axles to take to machine shop for press.

You really need the proper shop manual to replace pins if you have never done it. If the kit has bronze bushings, you will need a very expensive reamer to align them. If you are lucky, a kit with nylon bushings will be available.
Hi,

You say "Camper Special" so that is likely a Super Cab or Crew Cab...

NAPA Chassis Part #'s:
=================

Regular Cab 6200 to 6900 lb. GVW
--- Nylon: 262-1556
--- Bronze: 262-1523

Super Cab, Crew Cab, and Regular Cab with 7500 to 8100 lb GVW
--- Bronze Only: 262-1502

HTH,
Don Leverton
NAPA Store Mgr. Olds,AB Canada
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Old 05-28-2005, 06:41 PM
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ok its a 79 camper speacial regular cab the pins are (im guessing right 2 this point 7/8 dia)napa part 262 -1523
crazy larry how do i figure the shipping ill pay for it its just i ve aired blown my allowance buying the king pin puller and bushing kit so its gonna be awhile before the cash comes back up and it would be the drivers side thats been done in

"im not cheap just broke" lol
and i almost had the reamers on e bay someone out bid me in the last 10 seconds

well i did get a few lessons for my money i am 100% confident i will be able to do it as soon as all the stars are in ailment again i watched him do everything and after he screwed it up i told him just the same even offered to buy the tools from him i can buy the one reamer for about $70 im gonna try for a set on ebay if on rolls around

i have to tell you i have a tool problem some people drugs women alcohol my vise is tools
see my photo album
my trailer
id have to empty 1/2 of the stuff just to move it sorry getting off the subject
so i got everything to do this except
driverside I beam
adjustable reamers
hey don are there any goo parts house up there sometimes ifeel like id give it all away for a decent parts guy down here they are brain dead(no offense to you)
thanks guys
(ps) im disabled cant work a steady job and have no income so thats why the $$ is slow (like me!!!)

sr66

pss i think the steering box is the root of my prob because its hard to turn to the right and i replaced the pwr steer pump
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Old 05-28-2005, 08:13 PM
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PM me your shipping address, i'll get it there, when you get the cash, you can get me back ok?
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Old 05-28-2005, 08:17 PM
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do you want both of them? might be a difference in the years and side? i'd hate to find out i only got you half of what you needed.....
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Old 05-29-2005, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Keller
ok its a 79 camper speacial regular cab the pins are (im guessing right 2 this point 7/8 dia)napa part 262 -1523

... blown my allowance buying the king pin puller and bushing kit

...and i almost had the reamers on e bay someone out bid me in the last 10 seconds

...even offered to buy the tools from him i can buy the one reamer for about $70

...hey don are there any goo parts house up there sometimes ifeel like id give it all away for a decent parts guy down here they are brain dead(no offense to you)

...pss i think the steering box is the root of my prob because its hard to turn to the right and i replaced the pwr steer pump
Hey Rob,

If it is a Reg Cab, and GVW is 6900 or less...
I'd return the bronze-bushing kit and just buy the nylon bushing kit.

The nylon ones don't NEED to be reamed to fit. If you're eally set on buying the bronze ones, just about ANY machine shop should be able to ream the bushings for you. If you remove the spindles and take them in, I'm quite sure that the cost should be far less than the $70.00 you're planning on spending on the reamer. My philosophy is that there really is no need to buy a tool that you'll likely only ever use once in your entire life.

As far as someone's earlier comment about the I-beams being screwed as soon as they were heated ... I've never heard that before ... and I sincerely doubt the validity of that statement.

It is my understanding that I-Beams were made of cast-iron, not tempered steel, and that heating them should not cause any ill effects, as long as they are allowed to cool naturally. (Quenching them prematurely may cause some distortion.)

I do know that I have heard of having to heat neglected and siezed king pins in order to get them to accept grease.

I have also heard of alignment shops (that I thought were reputable) having to heat and bend I-beams on MD trucks (ie Ford Louisville L900) in order to get the correct alignment.

The whole reason that they use heat is that metal (especially iron) expands when heated, then contracts as it cools. That's why your king pin fell out on the floor. As long as they haven't damaged the bore with that oversized drift / air hammer, and did allow everything to cool naturally, I'd guess that they're still fine.

But then again, I'm just a "brain-dead partsman" and not a mechanic

My suggestion would be to talk to the guys at the busiest frame/alignment shop you can find, and ask thier opinion ... and trust what they tell you. Despite popular rumor, most mechanic's ARE trustworthy and genuinely want to help customers. There are just a few "rotten apples" out there, so it really isn't fair to paint them all with the same brush.

The local mechanic's around here joke about it...
"A partsman is just a mechanic with his brains blown out"

My response: "Der...Yesterday I cou'nt even spell mekanuk, today I are one"

Good Parts House?
I hear that the NAPA store in Olds, Alberta is the one of the best!

Oh yeah ... re: hard to turn to the right...
That's probably because your king pin is siezed. Does it "creak and groan" when you turn the wheel?

Don
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Old 05-29-2005, 04:15 PM
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Ooops .... forgot to add this...

ALSO re: Hard to turn to right.

If I recall correctly (it may have been just the 4x4's) Ford was using 2 different types of "Ram Assist" power steering on trucks of that vintage, rather than the usual "integral" power steering gear that is in use on almost everything else.

The system consisted of a P/S pump, a (Bendix or Garrison) control valve, and a double-acting hydraulic cylinder.

The control valve was attached to the pitman arm, and as resistance was encountered (by a spring-loaded self-centering ball) the control valve would direct hydraulic fluid flow in the appropriate direction in order to "assist" with steering effort.

If your truck is equipped with one of these systems, your control valve may be at fault. Check with your friendly neighborhood NAPA (plug!) store for price/avail on a rebuilt unit. You'll need to know the last 6 digits of the VIN (numerical sequence of assembly -- usually 1 letter and 5 digits) in order to determine if it's a Garrison or Bendix valve.

Don
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