Just wondered if anyone has used a Kugel reverse mount under the dash brake master cylinder. would like to know if you liked it and what if any problems you may have run into. I am trying to keep my 37 clean and the engine compartment free of clutter. Just wondered if anyone had a thought on it. Thanks in Advance The new guy
I am looking at doing that on my project..have not quite figured out how to access the master for service when it is up under that dash :spank: as I suppose this is..other than that it should work fine..
^^^^^ make a set of straps out of plate steel so that you can unbolt the assembly from its "normal position" and put it into the "service position"
make the brake pedal arm removable
when you want to service the master cylinder, unbolt it from where it belongs, install the straps, mount the master to the bottom of the straps and there you go, a master cylinder you can easily get at
if you think you might have to at some point bleed the brakes while the mater cylinder is in the down position, make a set of handles for the master cylinder, one which bolts on place of the pedal arm, and one that bolst to the master cylinder bracket ... allowing you to bleed the brakes by working the handles like a set of scissors
use braided stainless lines from the master to where ever the lines exit the interior compartment
sned me money and ill put the t bucket design on hold long enough to scratch design you a "build it yourself" 90* under dash master cylinder assembly, some assembly (and cutting and welding and fitting and possibly some cursing required)
I'll likely do this on my '47 Ford. Was wondering what exactly to bolt this assembly to so the firewall doesn't flex and crack the paint (or worse). Would a pair of 1" square tube full-length crossmembers tied into the outer body sides (and welded to the firewall) be enough?
BTW, the pedal comes in 16" and 19" lengths and (at least on my car) would appear to put the master cylinder somewhat level with the "radio" area. I'm thinking of maybe a removable fake speaker grille to access the M/C for filling...
^^ the general rule is that you never want to weld anything to a panel that has to look good
2 tubes running from hinge pillar to hinge pillar should support the master cylinder assembly quite well, but if one of the bers is welded to the firewall, youll see the welds start to distort the firewall after a little while
if you want to tie into the firewall for additional stength, do it right behind the engine where any distortion that developes will be hidden behind the block, you could also add aditional support by placing a tube down the centerline of the tranny tunnel, and tie the other bars into that also
all depends on what sort of interior your going to have ... just a stock dash that wont hide much, or a full center console that would hide a bunch of bars that tie into the tranny tunnel
Thanks for all the replies!! I do know that the 70s dodge vans have this same set up, I got the bracketry ($15.00 @ pull a part). Started to do some mods and started thinking it may be easier to buy the kugel setup, this is a good way to try it out. I have limited space on my 37 as I have a recessed firewall and am limited on space. I have not given op on the van parts just wondered how the Kugel worked for others.
I would agree with not attaching to firewall but the 1 inch tubing is a good idea, just make sure its plenty secure, when you hammer the brakes.
I used the Kugel setup on a glass T. If you leave enough room at the top to remove the lid from the m.c. and mount a mirror, you can see the fluid level with a flashlight. A squeeze bulb connected to a length of tubing will aid in filling. I used two 1" x 1/8" square tubing "n" shaped spans welded to the frame rails with diagonal bars connecting them to mount the whole thing to. The "n" spans were about 8" apart front to rear and made a very rigid bridge. Nothing was connected to the glass firewall.
I ended up with a reverse mount Wilwood pedal in 6.25:1 ratio because I needed two different master cylinder bores (inadvertent mis-match of calipers). Here's what my mount looks like so far. It's welded to the outer body and sets about 3/8" behind the firewall with nothing touching.
S-10
I know this is a old post but how did your brakes come out.
I mocked up my 41 like you did & the master cylinders hung under the dash.
When I raised the Wilwood to fit under the dash the petal is not long enough.
From the floor to the bottom of the petal it is 9.5". Maybe someone makes a longer petal?
Any ideas
I ended up shopping the car before finishing it, but the cylinders were below the lower edge of the dash. If you were concerned, you could always make a filler panel or lower dash tray to cover them...
Thanks for the Pictures that sure takes the guess work out.
I am installing mine up under the dash, calling wildwood in the morning and ask if they have a longer pedal. If not time to buy some steel and head to the fab shop.
I'm using one on my 35 Dodge. I did have to heat and bend the pedal arm a bit to get it more under the steering column. as far as filling it i'm going down through the cowl as the Dodge has about 16" of cowl that is covered by the hood. I'll do a 6" inspection plate to check the fluid level. The top of the reservoir is only about 2 inches below the cowl.
I'm using one on my 35 Dodge. I did have to heat and bend the pedal arm a bit to get it more under the steering column. as far as filling it i'm going down through the cowl as the Dodge has about 16" of cowl that is covered by the hood. I'll do a 6" inspection plate to check the fluid level. The top of the reservoir is only about 2 inches below the cowl.
Here's a couple of shots of my Kugel setup. I love it. Reverse clutch master and right angle brake master. I set mine up so that the whole assembly is adjustable fore and aft and up and down. It worked out great. I also designed my dash to be easily removable for access to the fluid. Again I really like it and it's a quality product for sure. I even have A/C unit behind the dash too.
GTW5 I found a way to mount this unit under the lower lip of the dash like S10 said. My problem is the arm is short and to extend it would put the ratio from 6;1 to 11;1 per wildwood. This would be like slamming on the brakes on a soft stop. The next hurdle will be the brake lines. I will get pictures posted soon. Why did you heat and bend the petal?
1930u Nice set up. Dash covers nice. My problem is I recessed the firewall 4.5" on a 41 Ford to get the Big block FE to fit. The Kugel would not fit. I wanted that set up first due to the longer petal.
Thanks for the replies. I will post pictures soon. :smash:
The pedal ended up too far to the right. I couldn't move the main bracket over to the left as it fouled on the steering column. If Kugel had a straight pedal I would have used it but a few minutes with the torch solved the problem
I cut my firewall out and reversed it to fit a blown Hemi...see my journal entires. I added 2inches to my dash to move it closer to the rear. worked great.
mounted my hydroboost under the floor with remote reservoir on the firewall to keep my smooth firewall
easy fill too
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