[F&J]

Originally Posted by Countilaw

I have used lacquer primer for years, as I have 2K primers.

If applied properly and sanded well, lacquer works fine. Or, it does for me. I use black lacquer primer for a guide coat as well. It dries very fast, sands easily and is cheap. About $40 a gallon. I haven't found any 2k that cheap.

Another thing, it does not set up in the cup. That's why I keep some in my syphon cup. It's easy to just grab the spray gun and apply a little primer.

With 2K, you have to use it all or waste it. It will set up in the cup. I just can't see pouring out good money because I mixed up a little to much 2K.

Shrinkage: If you lay the lacquer primer on really thick, you will get shrinkage. I usually spray on light coats, and sand in a few minutes. It fills small imperfections and blends the edges of plastic filler very well.

2k will shrink, it too has solvents in it. Down side, you have to wait several hours to sand 2k.

If any one can tell me where I can get 2k primer with it's activator and reducer with shipping and handling for less than $48.00 a gallon, I will surely be getting some.

Frank

I agree that laquer primers can be used. If a person has a lot of problems with it, I would think they don't know how to use it.

I can't use epoxy primer because it makes me quite ill. It also stinks up a small garage so that you can't go back in for a day. I choose not to invest thousands in a real paint booth and spacesuit to be able to use a product that I don't like the way it sands. I just hate working with it.

I use the acrylic laquer high build version and it had really changed a lot for the better right before it went out of fashion IMO. It did not seem to shrink as much, and could be used in heavier coats compared to the earlier stuff.

I don't use laquer spot putty, but I do use 3M acrylic spot putty the way it was intended...like for MINOR flaws. I love the stuff. Why?, because with the 2 part putty, I cannot take my time with a portable light to chase down every little speck like I can with the acrylic.

One thing about the body/paint forum that I don't care for, is that alternative methods can't be discussed here. the board is controlled by a few people who ridicule other methods.

I still use all sorts of methods that would be ridiculed, but your opinions mean absolutely nothing to me. I just go out and look at the results of what I have done....and how it holds up over time in harsh enviornments.

You may think my post is nonsense, but somewhere in the threads here, it was said to a newcomer, that "if you don't spend at least $1500 to $2000 on materials, you can't expect a good job". The other one that got me was how a person got publicly ridiculed for "only" spending $500 to $600 on materials.

This board is of no use for a guy on a severe budget (poor) with a scruffy cheap daily driver or beginner rod, and is embarrased to drive it that way, and just wants a decent SS urethane paint job for a little over $100. You guys would laugh him off the board. Get off your almighty horses. I can do it, and it will hold up in salt, stored outdoors and never waxed. Don't tell me it can't.

end of rant....just tired of the "my way or no way" attitude around here.

[shine]

wet and thin as in shot right not reduced , sorry. i used high grade thinner in primer and retarder in color. i never did buy into that 150% deal. but the problem is everyone thinks it easy because it flashes fast so they dont really have to have gun control. i've had some lacquer jobs last a long time if cared for. todays sun seems to be a little harder on them though. just about every repaint i see on forums and cars i take to redo have a checked lacquer job on them. most done at home and have a ton of primer and color. it's just not as easy as some seem to think. once a lacquer finish shatters thats it. it's gotta come off. and then theres the old painters tales of 40 coats of hand rubbed lacquer

[baddbob]

Yes, I also noticed retarder helped a lot. I think because the flow was better and the paint stayed open longer to get the solvents out.

[baddbob]

Originally Posted by F&J

I agree that laquer primers can be used. If a person has a lot of problems with it, I would think they don't know how to use it.

I can't use epoxy primer because it makes me quite ill. It also stinks up a small garage so that you can't go back in for a day. I choose not to invest thousands in a real paint booth and spacesuit to be able to use a product that I don't like the way it sands. I just hate working with it.

I use the acrylic laquer high build version and it had really changed a lot for the better right before it went out of fashion IMO. It did not seem to shrink as much, and could be used in heavier coats compared to the earlier stuff.

I don't use laquer spot putty, but I do use 3M acrylic spot putty the way it was intended...like for MINOR flaws. I love the stuff. Why?, because with the 2 part putty, I cannot take my time with a portable light to chase down every little speck like I can with the acrylic.

One thing about the body/paint forum that I don't care for, is that alternative methods can't be discussed here. the board is controlled by a few people who ridicule other methods.

I still use all sorts of methods that would be ridiculed, but your opinions mean absolutely nothing to me. I just go out and look at the results of what I have done....and how it holds up over time in harsh enviornments.

You may think my post is nonsense, but somewhere in the threads here, it was said to a newcomer, that "if you don't spend at least $1500 to $2000 on materials, you can't expect a good job". The other one that got me was how a person got publicly ridiculed for "only" spending $500 to $600 on materials.

This board is of no use for a guy on a severe budget (poor) with a scruffy cheap daily driver or beginner rod, and is embarrased to drive it that way, and just wants a decent SS urethane paint job for a little over $100. You guys would laugh him off the board. Get off your almighty horses. I can do it, and it will hold up in salt, stored outdoors and never waxed. Don't tell me it can't.

end of rant....just tired of the "my way or no way" attitude around here.

I agree lacquer primers offer great ease of use and are very cheap, but there's no way in hell they compare to a quality epoxy or 2K in durability and corrosion resistance. I really wish I was wrong on this.

[shine]

basically trying to make lacquer shoot like enamel by slowing it way down. i use to preferred enamel myself for solids. urethanes gives you both .

there are always different ways to go in painting. i only use 3 products so my failure rate goes way down . i only do one kind of job . so i don't change up much.
for a beginner lacquer id not really the best route to go . there are many pitfalls with lacquer and chances are it will go south in a year or so. a single stage urethane is by far going to produce the best results with the least effort and can be done on a budget. theres nothing wrong with building a car on a budget. i've done it all my life but using inferior products will spoil it for you sooner or later. i don't cut corners on things like brakes or paint. paint job is too hard to redo after the car is built.

[oldred]

Originally Posted by F&J

This board is of no use for a guy on a severe budget (poor) with a scruffy cheap daily driver or beginner rod, and is embarrased to drive it that way, and just wants a decent SS urethane paint job for a little over $100. You guys would laugh him off the board. Get off your almighty horses. I can do it, and it will hold up in salt, stored outdoors and never waxed. Don't tell me it can't.

end of rant....just tired of the "my way or no way" attitude around here.

If that is aimed at my post you are way off base. I was not ridiculing anyone for doing something on a budget and in fact have in several other posts discussed how to get by doing it cheaper, just doing it cheaper and using the right materials. I think I pointed out a couple of times about budget NOT being the reason to have to use lacquer over the better products and I still maintain that the economy 2k products are cheaper to use because they go so much farther. My whole point is that a person on a budget can get a better job AND save some money too by using the right material.