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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2009, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman
yes, the filter screws to the gun,the water seperators are very important.I have a seperator at the tank then one after the regulator then a decisent dryer and then one of those tolet paper filters then one at the gun.Filters are Very expencive so for now I 'll show you how to make your own for under 50.00.OK?What kind of compressor are you using?
its best to filter the air after its regulated down to around fifty or so lbs.I'm still trying to find a resonable price on decesint balls ,its the same stuff that comes in little packets with electronic equipment it absorbs moisture but a bag of the stuff at the local paint store runs around 75-100.00.do you have access to diesel water seperators for fuel?Junk yards?
my compressor is a craftsman 30 gallon single piston oil free 150psi max... I was going to use a water sperator at the compressor, desicant whip hose, ball filter... so it sounds to me that I need to get a pressure reguator after at the compressor, water seperator........

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2009, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by cjperotti
If you canít find the Sata gun this is what I have DeVilbiss GTi-620G. I purchased it for $429.99 Plus tax. I ordered it off a Mac Tools truck and then made payments.

Just print out the page and find a jobber who can order it.
Mac tools????????wait till you find out what that gun really costs,NEVER buy tools of the trucks.Their worse than credit cards,I'll tell you about THOSE guys later.Sata 425.00 keystone aftermarket parts ,Columbia,S. Carolina
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2009, 08:11 AM
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As far as metal prep goes , PM me.LOL. We don't want to get started on that.Ha,ha .I'll give you the facts ,I've done that every kind of way too.so if I tell you watch out for that pile of dodo stop walking and look for it,you have no shoes on yet.Metal prep is very important but its a big pile a poo you dont want to step in right now.SPI epoxy is what I use ,its the BEST bang for the buck and they have the best hotline I've ever seen they also have a site for users but I think its just for the pros.rust isnt a problem either but pm me for that procedure,others have and you can ask them if my advice worked for rust and metal prep.dont throw away those cheap guns,you'll need them.
your right the worst thing is a nasty pile of poo squished between the toes!! .... I will keep the cheap guns... I will pm you about the metal work.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2009, 08:50 AM
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this is how the car sits now but the welds were filled in some more and all have been ground down with 40 flap wheel... now you can see why I am stuck with out knowing what products to use etc...


I don't know if you can see but there is little rust areas,, after grinding they look like little pockmarks.... took me some time to get the old roof cut out and the new one cut and welded... (although once I started doing it and not thinking about it went pretty quickly 2 weekends... ) the car is under an epoxy pimer was when I got it... and from the window belts down the body work is very straight... up from the window belts needs some smoothing out mainly around where the welds form the 4 1/2 inch chop was done.. just very anxious to get it done so I can drive it a little bit before the wedding... don't want the first time I drive it t be me on te way to my wedding I also noticed today havn't looked at the car since last weekend... that the visor is starting to get surface rust on it... looks like a wire wheel will remove it, what can I do to combat this till I get some epoxy primer?

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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2009, 12:13 PM
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That compressor might get the job done but you'll have to let the compressor catch up so paint it in stages,for instance do the roof,the next day the nose and then the back section,not the best way to do it but since your using a solid color it'll be fine.You did say solid ,right? Any ways keep your eyes out for a wore out compressor,a big one, two stage ,220v ,60 gal.,if you got scrap metal yards there you'll find lots of em ,all the parts are right there.Ill show you how to build your own kick as* compressor under 200.00 that'll blow you away(again ,no pun intended)Sound Cool?heres a paint job that I charge 500.00 for,its almost four years old,straight outa the booth ,its one of our used cars we sold to a friend.hope this resizer works
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2009, 12:18 PM
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As you can see it still has its shine,its dirty and has NOT been takin care of.YOURS wil be much better,so what color are you useing?
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2009, 12:34 PM
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I was thinking a pacific blue or a cream probably a blue though.... I was at Lowes earlier today and they have these 1/4 inline filters that are full of little blue desicant balls... for 11.00 think they are worth a damn? do you really think my compressor would have a problem keeping up? it did run my grinder and cut off wheel yeah after a few minutes they did slow down. and yes I guess with the compressor running a lot more chance of water... you mentioned I could paint it in sections... why would I have to wait a day before moving on to the next section? what about clear can you do that in sections as well? the gun I just bought needs 9.5 cfms at 16 psi... now the compressor I have is 30 gal upright, 6hp max 2hp running, 8.6 scfm@40 psi and 6.4 scfm@90 psi... what is scfm?

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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2009, 01:51 PM
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I'll assume its solid (no metalics) so if you can't decide ,why dont you just use both?two tone?If you paint the roof only ,the compressor should keep up.then the next day it'll have to be taped off (coverd up)so,it needs to be dry enough to stick tape to.One advantage to this is you can concentrate on just the roof and its not so overwelming and the roof is EZ plus you get to see right away a quick look at how nice the cars going to be (instant gratification)It'll also give you a boost of confidance,it'll also make the car easier to paint,without the roof to do.I like to paint trucks like this.Cream two tones look awsome on those cars.For paint i'd use Nason ful-thane(the blk car in the picture)I've found this to be very good and ez to use ,costs about 150.00 a gal with hardner,keep in mind this is what I would use if I were you ,everyone will have a differnt opinion and you'll have one too, after youre done,your intitled to it ,like gettin yer cherry popped Now...I gotta go put ice on my finger.ooh,ah
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2009, 01:10 AM
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SCFM is standard cubic feet per minute. Your compressor is technically too small for proper paint and body work, but if as you say you can paint in sections you may be alright.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2009, 01:47 AM
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hey crash what do ya think about useing two of them disposible compressors connected together at the tanks,might work ,but the noise .....what do you think? mabee roll it all the way over to the neighbors yard
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2009, 06:37 AM
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Ill see If I can find another one to hook too it.. little yellow ear plugs will cure that . Ill be on the hunt for paint and a compressor this week... If I can't find compressor I will give it a try as is..... Im going to do like you said ... roof , doors, dash, and all the little stuff that is off the car in one day. Then the next shoot the body... yeasterday when I turned the compressor down to 50 psi and hooked the gun up with 30 psi at the inlet , the paint gun ran for about a minute wide open before the compressor kicked back on at 120 psi... and I walked around the car with the gun like I was painting it (well how I think you would paint ) watched the pressure at the inlet of the gun stayed at 30 .. Thanks for all the help MASTER

grasshopper
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2009, 08:17 AM
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I wouldnt worry to much about the compressor,but now you know how to quick cure that problem if it comes up.All this master crap ,sheesh,you sound like my wife,yes master this ,yes master that.GENI,get me outa here!!!!! Blink ,blink good luck let me know when your ready for more. Mike O.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2009, 11:53 AM
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LOL I will be ready for more once I can track down some of the nason ful-thane, and some epoxy primer... guess I am spoiled with the internet ,when I can't find or buy it on there I get flustered... Ill have to see what I can come up with ... when ever I try find it on the internet it sends me to some trinity 1945 paints site ...
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2009, 02:04 PM
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wire brushed all the rust off the visor then sanded with 80 then 180 and sprayed with some rattle can primer to try keep the rust off till ready to sand and paint... but the hunt goes on for primer and paint.... one place I called yeasterday said they only sell to the professionals... great!
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2009, 06:40 PM
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look on top of your refridgerator that thick yellow book has telephone numbers in it, look up body shop supplies in "automobile",find a store that sells dupont,youll have to go down and find your colors
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