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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2009, 04:04 PM
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I talked to a guy at finish masters he said he would be able to get spi epoxy for me..so I am slowly tracking things down. although he kept insisting that there are plenty other epoxys out there just as good.. I think he wants me to spend more money ... I told him I was not in the slightest interested in other products

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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2009, 07:36 PM
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forewarned is forearmed,Ha,ha,told ya.I called barry today he said call him if you have any problems finding the epoxy,thats the number I PMed you.I've been useing that stuff all week.you making a list?Sounds like your on your way.just remember you dont want to be painting after dark so if your not sure wait till morning
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 06-18-2009, 04:35 AM
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well I wil find out eveything I can and can't get this weekend.... yeah I am making a list... how much reducer should I get? I am going to reduce the epoxy for the sealer, and does the nason need reducing as well ?
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 06-18-2009, 05:55 AM
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SPI has a really good reducer or nason(not as good)both can be used in the others product ,I prefer the SPI reducer,wax & grease remover but the differences wont be that noticeable to you
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Old 06-19-2009, 06:53 PM
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I got my iwata today... it came with , a wrench type gizmo (technical term),a little tube of lube (don't know where or what to use it on) , a little filter (don't know if it goes under the cup or in the cup) you had mentioned it may not be wise to use this with the single stage, and a 1000ml cup, and a little tooth brush (what it looks like) okay ready for the questions? get that hunt and peck finger ready... 1- does the cup just crew on or do I need to use some kind of teflon tape ? 2- how tight does the cup need to be screw it on by hand or snug up with a wrench 3- how the heck do I go about cleaning this gun? 4- if I was to use this little filter how do I do it? and with what product the paint only? 5-1000 ml how much will this cover as far as painting my model a tudor? 6-the "instructions" or "destructions" say to set the inlet pressure to 16-18 lbs... is this correct or does the product sheet(tech sheet) say what pressure to set at? 7-am I forgetting any questions here?
okay tomorrow if I don't drink to much tonight I am going to goto the paint supply store .. I figure it will be about 3 weeks till I do any spraying still a few odds and ends I need to round up... so don't hurt that finger too bad tonight you can answer in stage if you like... any other little helpfull tips I would appriciate thanks.. grasshopper few that was a mouth full
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2009, 06:16 AM
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MOST important,the wrench.......unscrew the cap,this is the nozzel,it has two notches for that wrench.always use the wrench to remove this (NEVER PLIERS)the two smooth rings are the seats. being careful,remove the pin by unscrewing the adjusting screw,theres a spring in there so be carefull not to loose it.remove the pin then the nozzeland the cup.This is the proper way to get started cleaning your gun. use the long brushes to clean the head,,(from the bottom of the cup to where the nozzel screws in)Dont use any brushes inside the nozzel,use a toothpic or a paint paddle(split along the grain to the correct size)so you dont scratch the pin seat.replace the pin,you'll notice the barrel is brass,this is where you lube,also put a drop in the nut thats in the head,slide the pin back in,replace the nozzel make sure its tight,but not to tight.the cap has little holes in it,a toothpic might not be small enough to get in so regrind the toothpic on a bench grinder(sharpen it)to fit.replace the cap hand tight but tight.the little screen goes in the hole that the cup screws into,try painting without it first,it just keeps crap out of your paint,but your gun is cleaner now than it'll ever be.screw the cup on hand tight,now your ready to paint something.LOL,I know your looking for something right now,so an old washer,dryer a car hood etc..will do fine.Now the fun starts ,good luck, Mike O.
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2009, 07:42 AM
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okay sounds good, a little hung over but off the the paint supply shop... I will let you know what I get... talk to you later

simon
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2009, 11:22 AM
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okay back from shopping.... went to finish masters (they said they could get the spi epoxy) lie! think they just wanted to get me in. tried to sell my ppg epoxy... In fact they never heard of spi.. I bought nothing... went to a place called mattos...very very helpful guy there older gentelman still paints on the side offered to paint my car for 350 after I bought all the supplies... told him no thanks...got my paint, smaller regulator for the gun, ball filters (2), 2 -quart mixing cups, 2- 2 1/2 quart mixing cups didn't know what size to get,degreaser, tape,180 paper for my da to finish the metal work, he tried to talk me into the nason ful poxy, he said that is all he has used for years and it is great, I told him I was looking for spi, he said that is great to the advantage to that is there isn't a 30min incubation period what ever that is... I told him I would talk to you before making any decision on the epoxy... he then said what ever price I could get the spi for he would match... I had him write that down on a my reciept so that if you said it was okay I would go back and get it from him... then he threw in a lot of paint stirers , and a ton of paint filters, said I could call him if I had any questions, he also said for solid colors the nason single stage is the way to go.. he said it has a good shine, and never clear coat it, if you want a little more shine buff it it comes out great...he said I would be supprised to see how many cars are actually single staged.. oh the nason epoxy with everything goes for about 180 a gallon..I also got a gallon of the single stage that is enough right?

thanks,
grasshopper
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2009, 02:28 PM
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okay mike never mind about the nason epoxy question , I called the number you gave me in the pm ... very nice guy answered ... gave me a number to call and said that if i ordered it monday they would ship it out monday . I figure get a gallon of epoxy and gallon of activator, and how much of his reducer....one other question how the hell do I ready these paint mixing cups?? I have no Idea, and if I reduce the epoxy down by 20% that would mean what ... if I had 24oz of epoxy ,24oz of activator I would add about 4.8 - 5 ozs of reducer?
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2009, 02:37 PM
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Okay spent 3 hours today got all the original (chrysler) paint of my donor roof ... so now I am ready to start the putty work. I think I will get the rest body work done on the epoxy primer that is on there block sand with 400? then next weekend I am going to errect my 12x20x8 portable garage and then I will be ready to spray the spi epoxy on..... do I need to do a seal coat or is the epoxy enough since there is already a coat of epoxy on all the body metal.. (ppg) i was told

simon
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Old 06-21-2009, 06:31 PM
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sorry too many questions... I'm sorry I am a perfectionist ... and I want to know everything i can.. If I put an engine in a car I want it to look like I was never there... just my nature... I don't know I ask and ask and ask.... I know I can be overwheleming but we only live once so better learn as much as we can while we are here...
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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2009, 07:30 PM
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Well, since db is apparently on vacation, I will try to answer two of your questions.

First, a 20% reduction of a 24+24oz. mix would be (24+24)(.2)=9.6, for 9.6 ounces of reducer in 48 ounces of material for a total of 57.6 ounces of material. If you use a calculator, you can take whatever your fill line reads and multiply it by 1.2 to get your new fill line with reducer. Use 1.1 for 10%, 1.2 for 20%, 1.3 for 30%, and so on. Reduction is optional with most epoxies, initial coats may work best unreduced for maximum film build and corrosion resistance.

Second, if the epoxy that is already on the vehicle is aged, it's better to sand it and re-apply new epoxy before proceeding. This will give you best adhesion of subsequent coatings.
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Old 06-22-2009, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashtech
Well, since db is apparently on vacation, I will try to answer two of your questions.

First, a 20% reduction of a 24+24oz. mix would be (24+24)(.2)=9.6, for 9.6 ounces of reducer in 48 ounces of material for a total of 57.6 ounces of material. If you use a calculator, you can take whatever your fill line reads and multiply it by 1.2 to get your new fill line with reducer. Use 1.1 for 10%, 1.2 for 20%, 1.3 for 30%, and so on. Reduction is optional with most epoxies, initial coats may work best unreduced for maximum film build and corrosion resistance.

Second, if the epoxy that is already on the vehicle is aged, it's better to sand it and re-apply new epoxy before proceeding. This will give you best adhesion of subsequent coatings.
crash is right,but I can simplify it even more.SPI epoxy makes a great sealer when reduced 20%.lets start with two dog food cans or any old cans that are identical,one for epoxy and one for activator 1:1.Then pour them into a bigger can(make sure the sides are straight and the bottom is flat) now put a mark at the level of the two cans combined into one.This mark is 100%,divide this in half and mark,this line is 50%.Now divide this line in half and mark again,this line is 25%,and this is where you fill with reducer.just pour the primer back in the other cans fill to the 25% line with reducer and pour the primer back in,and stir.This is your sealer.You can also use a ruler,2" + 2"+1"= 1:1:25%. Just put a ruler in the can ,fill it to 2"with primer then to 4"with activator,then 5" with reducer.Sand and reprime everything with a 1:1 mix with no reduction only reduce for use as sealer.when its cured give it a quick scuff with 600 to remove any trash or dirt and its ready to paint ,no need for lots of water just a spray bottle will do.like an old windex bottle
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2009, 04:33 PM
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okay I get it now... how much primer should I mix up at one time? so after primed and cured scuff with 600 wet (spray bottle) .. once that is done mix up my sealer... spray my sealer, now after the sealer I just have to wait the flash time (hopefully I can get the gun cleaned by this time) then spray my paint? I don't need to wait for it to cure correct? I guess this might be on the tech sheet? I ordered the epoxy today... 1 gallon . and there reducer..I did pick up a two quart mixing cups and two 2 1/2 quart cups... I am just confussed on how much to mix ... especially the paint.. since I don't want to run out while in the middle of painting and have to stop and make more...

thanks,
simon
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2009, 05:46 AM
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that 29 will probably take three quarts,you'll know better after the first coat.but the primer......start with 1/2 a quart for the roof. as a sealer wait two hrs, scuff & shoot.Those mixing cups are great for mixing your paint,8:2:1 or 4:1:1/2
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