[johnsongrass1]

I'll try not to rant here...roundy-round cars are night and day different. They ask for a completely different dynamic action than drag cars because it's a straight line. We want launch control and firm handling down the track. Pre-loading springs for control causes ill handling at speeds and braking. The ONLY exception being shocks as they're dampers. They can be made to dampen the same in one direction and different in the other if they're double adjustable. Pre-load by virtue of the bar adds work force when needed (launch) and control when needed (down track and braking) without unwanted forces after launch.

This is not an argument! yet! lol

Circle tracks are in essence, two straight tracks connected at both ends. Once you get the car turned, after apex, it's all straight to the next corner entry. I'll agree about dynamic/static weight distribution at launch because the car is already rolling but the physics don't change. Your wrong about shocks. They are not dampers per say, but timing devices. Dampers absorb energy and shocks simply slow the springs down. Not absorb the motion. All shocks that are rebuildable have replaceable pistons to control their compression and rebound characteristics. Not just double adjustables. That only means they are user adjustable. Otherwise disassembly is required. Maybe I'm missing your point, But I'm thinking you are saying the chassis works differently between the two type of cars. I'm saying, if you give me your drag car I can make it turn corners just by moving suspension points. A four link that goes straight, is the same four link under my circle track car. As far as deceleration goes I think you have to remove drive shaft torque lifting the RR because it's not doing anything after you shift to neutral. If left in gear, the engine slowing the car would put drivshaft torque back into play, that might unload the LR and cause problems. With the system freewheeling, You rely on the brakes that are connected to the axle, and remembering opposite and equal reaction, braking forces cancel out and do'nt change load at their respective wheels. Weight being shifted forward places less weight at the back, let it lift to high and it'll get to drifting around (loose). Keep it from rising at all and you'll diminish traction in the front(tight). If one wheel or set of wheel has more traction than another than I agree it can get out of control. But when both tires aren't using 100% of their available grip like at launch. A little weight here and there won't matter. Wouldn't all passenger cars a pull since non of then use a "square" corner weights? I hope I'm not getting on your nerves.

[JSracing]

Originally Posted by theHIGHLANDER

"And, don't forget the roundy-round boys preload with the springs all the time. No reason it can't be done in a straight line."

JS...Look into the deal Dave says about lighter springs and "stored energy". Consider everything we've been discussing, and if possible have someone knowledgable watch your car launch and take notes. Remember, longer on the drivers side (lower ladder bar adjuster) adds static wt on the pass side. The opposite is also true. Don't cloud the issue with "instant centers". The instant center is the forward mount. The bars are the levers. The levers plant the tires and when right will not allow the car to sag at all on launch. in fact the top of the tire should be nearly visable on launch depending on how low the car sits. It also sounds like they're in the right position to get the lengthening force I was talking about earlier.

JS...lookin forward to hearin how the car's doin. You never said what it was, did you?

Will do, the spring rate on back is rather light for the weight, it's 110 lb springs.
No I guess I never said what it was.
Here's a link to my web site, you may want to turn your speakers down. Crazy music LOL
My web pics

[theHIGHLANDER]

Kool car JS...love that injection deal. No wonder it's violent, but that's managable. You can give me details later as far as size and power, etc.

Now I'll rant...NEVER NEVER NEVER neutral an automatic car in the lights after a run!!! Quickest way to find yourself with ATF under the tires. Most drag racers know this. The only time driveline is disconnected is by clutch or convertors that disengage themselves automatically. NEVER downshift unless you got no brakes. Overspeeds the drum, etc and can seize the guts and roll the case...NOT GOOD!

'grass1...no, not on my nerves. I tend to speak coloquially at times. Dampers, timers, or in reality, hydraulic linear decellerators. I for one wouldn't care to take a hard turn in the typical drag car. I understand your points about suspension geometry, but we were dealing with the simplest and perhaps most violent levers for drag racing. I've always liked ladder bars. The only reason I ever see to use a 4 link is packaging and excessive power levels. I know of a 2600# ladder bar car that does 8.20s. But I wouldn't turn a corner with it...

[dannywilson]

I am newbie here and want to know more about cars suspension and brakes system. I regards you if you give me more knowledge about ladder bar adjustments and car engines. wrinkle skin treatment