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Old 12-28-2010, 10:16 AM
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Ladder Bar Bracket spacing help needed

Im preparing to weld the brackets for my ladder bar suspension. My eyebolts measure 7/8" in width. Should I weld the brackets @ 1" internal spacing to give a little breathing room for the eyebolt, to get it in and out easily, or should I do it up tight to the eye bolt?

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Old 12-28-2010, 12:28 PM
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ladder bar

Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmith1279
Im preparing to weld the brackets for my ladder bar suspension. My eyebolts measure 7/8" in width. Should I weld the brackets @ 1" internal spacing to give a little breathing room for the eyebolt, to get it in and out easily, or should I do it up tight to the eye bolt?
Years ago when we had a pro stock car, we had ours just so you could move them up and down, they didn't hit the sides, but would move easy, they had to move easy as you didn't have a lot of time between rounds. If you have 7/8" and make it 1" , that would give you about 1/16" on each side that should do it, as long as your slot is the same from top to bottom. Sometimes they will bind up a little if you give them too much play.


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Old 12-28-2010, 02:11 PM
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Put a single AN washer,... or a piece of .015" shim stock with a hole for the bolt punched into it, along with the rod eye/hiem/eyebolt at your upper and lower locations in the brackets to maintain spacing and then tack weld your brackets to the housing. Same for the front eye.

1/16" washer on both sides of eye is too much, thats an 1/8" clearance when they are removed. I would consider 1/16" total(just a washer on one side during fabrication) as the most I would use, and it would only be because I didn't have anything thinner around. This is not an area you want a sloppy fit, and with a big gap you will be flexing your brackets every time they are bolted up, or else you are fumbling with some washers to close the gap every time you adjust them from one hole to another.
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Old 12-28-2010, 03:48 PM
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Usually a Hiem joint will have mis-alignment washers on each side, yours should.

Moch it up with whatever goes between the brackets and put good tack welds on each side of the brackets. Disassemble before welding it solid. I've never had problems moving the hiem joint after welding the brackets on.

1/16" is a lot of slop. .015" sounds better if you think you need it.

If it's just a urethane bushing type end, I'd put a good fitting flat washer on each side of it.
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Old 12-29-2010, 08:44 PM
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I appreciate the guidance!
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Old 12-29-2010, 09:11 PM
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Welding the washers to the inside of the brackets work well. I do it all the time on our circle track cars.
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Old 12-29-2010, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsongrass1
Welding the washers to the inside of the brackets work well. I do it all the time on our circle track cars.
Just asking...what is the point of all the washers?? Wouldn't is just be easier to leave them out it weld the brackets to the car 1/8" closer together rather than go through all that work?? Is there some benefit I'm not seeing here??
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Old 12-29-2010, 10:47 PM
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Extends the range of motion.

On some cars the manufacture will put the plates about 5inches apart. The bolt will go through one plate, then a 2" spacer,, then the hiem, then another spacer and finally through the other plate. I find a real hassle to get it all lined up when your changing set ups in the staging lanes and the track is waiting on you.

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Old 12-30-2010, 07:43 AM
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Also you don't want the brackets touching the ladder bar itself, only the tube inside the bushing touches the ladder bar brackets. The ladder bar needs to have free movement.
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Old 12-31-2010, 09:46 AM
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Don't forget to allow some clearance for paint/powdercoat...

Russ
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:20 PM
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Just finished my ladder bar rear suspension a couple months ago, and I didn't put any washers or spacers at the pivot point. The heim joint ends are wider than the bar material, and a panhard bar keeps everything from moving side to side. If your bars are hitting the brackets you've got too much side movement, and you better see what happened to your panhard bar!
I simply bolted the brackets to my heim joints without the ladder bars, and welded them. Once they were very secure I removed the heim joints and finished up the welding. When I slipped the ladder bars into the brackets afterwards they fit perfectly, with no bind, or clearance issues.
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