[vroomchu]

I am trying to put a solid axle in a Nissan 240sx, don't want to cut the framework up to bad. Question I have is which is better, which uses less space? How strong of a mounting point do I need? If anyone has done this and has some pics would love to see. I plan on using a 8.8 ford axle.

The car is completely gutted, getting a Ford 302 with a 5 speed, might get a bit of spray some day. I have to guess the car will be 2000 lbs when done, the solid axle is so I have no worries about breaking.

[aisr]

Here's a link on how to put a solid axle in the 2nd gen RX-7 (also irs)...
http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/solidaxle.htm

[BillyShope]

The 4bar (NOT a 4link) would appear the logical choice for your application. There would be no binding on the street and, if you choose to do some serious dragracing, you might want to take a look at Page 19 of my site.
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[vroomchu]

Here are pics of what I am working with, any suggestions would be appreciated. I was thinking of doing a trac bar to the lower part of the frame, and shock bar up top. Let me know

[ericnova72]

You're into custom territory here, and there is very, very little possibility of getting anything to fit without some chopping on the floor. The drag race type four link takes less space forward in the car but more space vertically. A ladder bar takes less space vertically but comes farther forward due to its lenght. There is no way to do this right without cutting some of the floor away and using a roll cage to maintain strenght. With that said, looks to me like ladder bars will require the least amount of cutting to your floor, you will have to modify or throw away the rear sear to clear them.

[vroomchu]

I was thinking something like this but would need something to keep the axle from rolling and a panhard. I would like to modify the car so I could bolt a stock mustang 8.8 in the car. I have a pic of that and think it would work without cutting the car up.

[ericnova72]

Are you intending for the rac bar to pivot at the axle or will it be solid?

The short length of the trac bar will have a detrimental effect on pinion angle as the suspension travels. Any chance you could move the front mounting point farther forward? It's just minor floorpan surgery and would help greatly.

You will need some type of locator for side-to-side movement, I'd recommend a panhard for street use.

[BillyShope]

I'm afraid anyone new to the sport would be terribly confused by the terms being used in this thread. Don't mean to offend those posting, but a "track bar" and a "Panhard rod" are usually referencing the same thing (a rod used to locate the axle assembly laterally). The term "track bar" is common among oval track racers and the term "Panhard rod" is more common among roadracers. Dragracers are likely to use either.

In this thread, "track bar" is being used for that which would normally be called a "trailing link" or a "ladder bar," depending on whether it pivots at the axle connection or is solid. If it pivots, another trailing link...either above or below...would be needed.

The rear axle assembly pictured with its production links would not require a Panhard since the angled links (in plan view) are adequate for lateral location.

Again, didn't mean to offend anyone. I was just feeling sorry for the newbies.
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[aisr]

Your Nissan looks very similar to the '86-'91 RX-7 shown here...





The Torque Arm may be far easier to fit to your existing chassis...







The only mods required to the RX-7 chassis is 2 holes to mount the nose anchor for the torque arm. I've got guys pulling 1.3x 60s with them without reinforcing the tunnel or chassis. The torque arm is also much more street friendly if it's a dual purpose car.

Granny