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Old 07-21-2005, 05:54 PM
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Ladder Bars

I am putting a set of ladder bars on a 28 Model A w/283 SBC, 4 speed and 10 bolt rear. My question is since I will not be using slicks and it is just a street car can I get away with the clamp on ladder bars or will I have to weld them on?????
Thanks - Jerry
Oh yeah - I have coil overs on the back.

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Last edited by fred56; 07-21-2005 at 05:57 PM. Reason: Ledt out information
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Old 07-21-2005, 07:49 PM
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fred56
My recommendation would be to weld them on, bolt on's would not handle the tork of your engine in such a light car and if you have ever seen what happens to the rearend when it gets twisted because someone thought they could punch it once or twice and not hurt anything.

30dee
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Old 07-21-2005, 08:30 PM
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If you want them functional, they must be welded. Period. If they are for trips to Sonic Drive-In, bolting is OK.
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Old 07-22-2005, 03:48 PM
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ladder bars

Thanks for the info, just the thought of what it would be like if the rearend spun on the bolt on ladder bars gives me a chill.
O'm going to weld them on.
Thanks - Jerry
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Old 07-22-2005, 05:46 PM
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Be careful. Welding on an axle tube can warp it, with all kinds of nasty results.
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Old 07-23-2005, 12:49 PM
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ladder bar info.

http://autoweldchassis.com/lb.ivnu


A ladder bar suspension is a fine low-cost hard-reacting suspension that is great for drag racing, but for street use it can be a high-maintenance, rough-riding, ill-handling suspension. One of the main characteristic prolems with using Competition ladder bars on the street is due to the fact that they do not allow the rear axle within to twist. This action is locked out in the design of the mechanism. A good example of this twisting action is when you pull your vehicle up into a gas station or a food mart. Your suspension has to soak up the difference between the heights of the road surfaces. In some places this offset is severe. In the design of an automobile the manufacturers go to great lengths to make a suitable suspension that soaks up all road irregularities.

However, if Competition ladder bars are installed on a vehicle, your vehicle is either going to try to lift one of the front tires of the ground or the ladder bars, brackets, or both, are going to twist and possibly bend.There is also a possibility of the bracket welds developing cracks if not properly braced, not to mention the strain put on the frame and the rest of the vehicle.The problem continues when coming into contact with a bump or pothole. Since the twisting action is locked out, the tire will make contact with a bump, and then send a jolt through the vehicle via the ladder bars.In a lightweight street rod this can result in a thrashing-like ride. Eventually something will give.

This is why AUTO WELD developed low-cost, new generation ladder bars for Pro-Street use. On our new generation ladder bars we put a heavy duty urethane bushing in the front with a heavy duty outer sleeve welded directy to the ladder bars for extra strength. The bushing has an inner steel sleeve, which accepts a drag legal 3/4" bolt, (an Auto Weld exclusive!!). Stainless steel adjusters and double shear plates finish up the back. The flexibility of the urethane bushing allows the rear to twist and float slightly to soak up road irregularities and bumps for a better handling, quieter, maintenance-free ride that is still able to supply the necessary traction.
OUR PRO STREET BARS ARE FULLY ADJUSTABLE TOO!!!
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Old 07-23-2005, 04:35 PM
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Auto Weld Ladder Bars

Thanks for the link to the Auto Weld ladder bars. It is food for thought.
Jerry
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Old 07-23-2005, 06:05 PM
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i like the ladder bar set up too. but on my 63 nova i'm thinking a 4 link set up. http://www.streetrodparts.tv/nova-rear.htm good luck





Mustangsaly
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Old 07-23-2005, 07:08 PM
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Send me your email address in a PM and I'll send you a tech article I wrote on two ways to build ladder bars and avoid the binding problem that Mustang talks about and even allows use of parallel leaf springs, have a smooth ride, and still have all the traction bar features you need.
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