[lawguy]

Greetings. I have a 1940 Chevy sedan. It has a 350/350, a 100 amp alternator and a Ron Francis wiring system. At night, the low beams are - low and the high beams not as bright as I think they should be. Everything else works fine. I am going nuts as I have checked grounds, et al. Any help? Thanks, Robert

[docvette]

Doc here,

Are your headlights relay controlled?

Doc

[lawguy]

Originally Posted by docvette

Doc here,

Are your headlights relay controlled?

Doc

No, they are not. Reading some matieral about relays. Need help.

[docvette]

Doc here,

Wasn't sure if Ron Francis included relays in all his packages or not..

Simply put, A Relay can Deliver more Current From the source (Battery) to the load (lamps) because it has higher rated contacts, AND can be controlled with much less current.

You Do Not have all the voltage drops going through Headlight switch contacts, and "Marginal" Gauged wire you would if you ran it through the headlamp system..a lot of that current is lost in heat..producing less useful work at the user device..

AN EXAMPLE:



On our Example:

• #85 coil, goes to existing low beam power wire to headlamps.
• #86 Coil, goes to hard ground.
• #30 Movable contact or center-wiper, goes to headlamp low beams, a 10 ga wire is installed.
• #87 Normally open contact is a 10 gauge wire directly to a proper fuse link, and to the battery positive.
• #87a is not used for this application.

Do the same for the high beam circuit.

The way it works, Is when you turn the headlight switch on, the relay coil energizes the movable contact, to the normally open contact.

The coil only Consumes about an amp (on/ off control)

The Contacts "RELAY" power straight from the battery to the headlamps via a 10 gauge wire (larger than stock usually) and does not have to "route" through the vehicle electrical system, lamp switch, etc..all of which add "Drops" in current to the end user device..

Net result (and I am witness to this..when I added them to my DD Vette, which has always been "Dark" at night) is the low beams are about double the luminance..and the high beams shine like halogens..

The other end of the coin is BE sure you have proper Bonded grounds at the same potential as the battery..not a few ohms difference..this makes a huge improvement as well..Sounds like you have already done this step.

What was it you wanted to know about Relays?

Doc

[Bryan59EC]

The Headlights on my 59 are relay controlled---way bright lights.
If someone were just to tell me that relays made the lights brighter---I'd of
thought no way----only reason I did it was to save the switch---Boy, did I get a surprise.

Bryan

[docvette]

Originally Posted by Bryan59EC

The Headlights on my 59 are relay controlled---way bright lights.
If someone were just to tell me that relays made the lights brighter---I'd of
thought no way----only reason I did it was to save the switch---Boy, did I get a surprise.

Bryan

Doc here,

Bryan,


I thought EXACTLY the same thing AND knew better..Didn't become a believer UNTIL the law changed out here in 05..says if you turn the wipers on the headlights must be on..after paying my dues to the local muni court gods..and being a "Forgetful type of guy.. I built a sub-harness, to accommodate both systems primarily from relay control..



AND still didn't notice the difference until one NIGHT on the way home, dark out, it started to rain, I turned the wipers on..which put the headlights from normal to relay bypass..and it was like some turned on floodlights!

Blew me away!

Doc

[Bryan59EC]

Maybe someone should tell Crazy Larry.
If he lives out in the sticks like I do, and relays his headlight, he could see the deer and stop---before the deer stops him

Sorry Larry, cheap shot. Hope you feel better soon

Bryan

[docvette]

Doc here,

Ya think we should tell him that you don't renew your Deer Tags at The department of motor vehicles and yout truck at Fish and Game?

Or shall we keep that a state secret?

Doc

[cletis]

Another reason for the lights to be dim is running the sense wire on the alternator to the alternator output. This prevents the alternator from knowing you are using more amperage and the lights are running off just battery power. To correct this run the sense wire to a junction block where the lights and accessories are powered from.

[docvette]

Doc here,

Also a good point, if the alternator isn't a one wire..

Then, it could be a matter of RPM..

Doc

[Donnie W]

Doc,
I'm in the process of wiring my '40 Ford using a Ron Francis kit without relays, but I intend to install some with a power source straight from the alternator tie at the starter relay. I like your idea of the lights coming on with the wipers, but don't want them flashing when I use the intermittent feature of the new electric wipers. Can you show me a diagram to install your wiper/lights interconnect that won't come on with the intermittent wipers?
dw

[onenew32]

Something else you might want to look at, although I do agree with the relays and i am a 100% user of them. I took in a deuce coupe the other day whose owner complained about dim lights. To make a long story short, when i took the lights apart, which had been converted to H4 halogens; when i went to pull the connectors from the back of the bulbs, they literally fell off. When the conversions were done, the old sockets were re-used and it looks like the added amperage and heat did them in and no telling how old they were. between new sockets and a relay, the guy can see where he is going now.

[docvette]

Doc here,

Yeah, Sure can..But I need to know what wiper system you are using..So let me know..Standard , like 70's / 80's with no module type GM, or Delay module late model something else..

BUT...I gotta tell ya..I left mine alone .. I found it a Good thing to have the "Flash " option..

I Also have the Horn hooked up to the relay, so that ANYTIME the horn is blown the lights flash...

Can't tell you HOW many times that little option has saved my butt..in a crowded parking lot..and you have some dizzy chick backing out of a space..at High Noon...

Cell Glued to her ear..applying the body and fender paint to her face..Starbuck's Firmly affixed to her Crotch...Yelling at little "Johnny..Don't make Momma Come back there.."

Not paying attention to the $31,000 Freshly Restored Corvette she is about to back over with her Ol' Man's TAHOE..that she really can't drive / Control anyway.. (Very true story..She Replied to me after it was all over....She'd have kept backing and looking for "Who's Honking..HAD she not seen the flashing headlamps.." Cart chaser That saw it all said:" Nice save, dude!")..

Although..I gotta admit..It doesn't do much at night...

Anyway..let me know what ya got..wiper wise..

Doc

[Donnie W]

Doc,
It's one of those replace the original vaccum motor with an electric. Mfg by NewPort Engr in St. Louis. The switch has a small rectangular box with a knob protruding. The the knob goes: on, variable interval, slow and fast. It is not anything electronic or computer controlled. Looks to be a simple rheostat/switch thingy.
Hope that is detailed enough.
Thanks for the help.
dw

[docvette]

Doc here,

How many wires go to the motor?

Doc