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Old 10-23-2013, 09:34 PM
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Leaking brake fluid

I've just run all my brake lines (steel) and find that in some places brake fluid is leaking between the fitting and the steel line. It seems as if the flaring is corrupt. I've loosened the fitting and retightened it as far as I dare go. Still leaking. Replaced some lines in question and connectors and it still leaks. Is there something I'm missing or is there a trick to doing these lines. These are new standard ready made lines. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 10-23-2013, 09:49 PM
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Take a line loose where you can inspect the flare contact area. On a double flare line, sometimes that double flare does not cover the seal area, and it will leak. Also, are the mating surfaces the same angles ?
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27Tall T (10-24-2013)
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:48 AM
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To take Denny's response a little further
Angles - AN fittings are different then SAE at 37 vs the SAE at 45*.
Tubing - over tightening can split that folded area (the doubled up area). Then there is the possibility that the tubing is defective. Most of it is welded and will occasionally split at that weld - then the possibility of just crummy material from a far away country is always there.

My fix is spend a few bucks, buy an inexpensive bender and a pretty good double flare 'kit' along with a tubing cutter plus some standard tubing from a good supplier such as NAPA and make up your own. Those so-called lengths really don't fit most places on a street rod and are often used as a source of material only. You will then be able to fit those lines better plus know they are most likely done correctly
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27Tall T (10-24-2013)
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:52 AM
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X2 on that, i always bend and double flare them myself. Never had a problem this way.
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27Tall T (10-24-2013)
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:07 AM
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thread sealant

In the 70's Ford used a drop or two of a thread sealant on the master cyl and combo fittings on Fairlane or Mustang. I don't remember what the spec was but it was in the little red locltite looking bottles .
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27Tall T (10-24-2013)
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:35 AM
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I had the same leak problems when I was plumbing a new brake system. I replaced all the lines a least once with no luck. Then I put one down on my work bench next to a magnet by chance, and the fitting was attracted. Come to find out, the lines I bought from NAPA had steel fittings plated with brass. I purchased new lines with solid brass fittings and the problem was fixed.
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27Tall T (10-24-2013)
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T Evans View Post
I had the same leak problems when I was plumbing a new brake system. I replaced all the lines a least once with no luck. Then I put one down on my work bench next to a magnet by chance, and the fitting was attracted. Come to find out, the lines I bought from NAPA had steel fittings plated with brass. I purchased new lines with solid brass fittings and the problem was fixed.

Coated steel fittings are standard. I would not use brass(copper with zinc added) on brakes as it can work harden and fracture. Even worse is the potential for galvanic corrosion between different metals then the failure.
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Old 10-24-2013, 10:19 AM
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I might mention also, if you have the cutting, bending, flaring tools, you can buy very good line in a 25 foot roll. I do that sometimes, because I do not want to many junctions when running longer pieces of line. More junctions, more chance of leaks.
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27Tall T (10-24-2013)
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Old 10-24-2013, 11:58 AM
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I use insulated Adel clamps for securing any type of line to the car.....
Steel Adel Clamps

Your local Ace Hardware will usually have a good supply of different sizes.
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27Tall T (10-24-2013)
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Old 10-24-2013, 12:37 PM
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I favor the stainless steel ones. A little more money, but, no problems with rust or corrosion. Any will work good though.
Stainless Steel Cushion Clamps, adel clamp metal clamp, rubber insulated clamp, , cable clamps, wire clamps, loom clamps, p clamps | Maney Wire & Cable Inc
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