Guys? Is there a cool trick or sure-fire method of preventing the 2-part front & rear main seals on a sbc from leaking after a rebuild?

I am finding it frustrating cleaning & detailing an engine and then dealing with oil leaks after it has run.

Whom ever helps me win this battle is going to get a thank you card on their Birthday and my never ending gratitude!

Thanks

What weight oil you using?

Oil viscosity has no bearing (ha ha) on oil seal leaks.

Personally, the only thing I do on the rear main (2 piece style) is put a thin smear of Permatex 300 on the back (block contacting part) of the seal and a THIN smear of RTV on the parting lines of the seal. I also put a THIN smear of RTV on the main cap between where the rear seal is and the outer edge. Some guys will offset the seal parting line from the main cap parting line, but I have had no need to do that.

For the front (timing cover) seal, I coat the outer edge with RTV before installing it in the cover.

Make sure the seal is lubricated upon installation, motor oil is fine. Assembly grease will work, but can dry up over long periods of time.


tom

Several things you can try. One, is use a quality oil pan, most of the chrome variety are offshore and fit very poorly. Two, do not use silicone sealer on the oil pan end seals. Three, rotate the split rear main seals 180 degrees in the block and the main cap and just use a very small dab of Permatex sealer on the block to main cap mating surface. Four, if possible use the Fel-Pro one piece pan gasket and follow the instructions explicitly....asin applying it dry with NO SEALER. And make sure all surfaces are clean.

Vince

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I use Hylamar sealer on the back side of the rear main seal and smear the excess out toward the parting edges of the cap. I put a dab of Ultra Black Permatex in the outside parting edges of the cap to block.

For the oil pan gaskets I use Gasgacinch sealer putting 1 coat on the gasket and block and let it dry, then I put 1 more coat on the gasket and put it in place. Then I do the same to the other side of the gasket and oil pan. At the oil pan end rubbers I put a film of silicone and a bead of silicone where it meets the gasket. On the front side at the timing cover I use a little more silicone at the edges while dabbing it on until I see it stick.

The front seal into the timing cover I put it in dry. The seal I lubricate with oil. The harmonic balancer I clean with emery cloth and 600 grit sand paper. If it has a groove where the old seal rode I install a Speedi-Sleeve. I lubricate the balancer with oil and install it. Before I install the bolt and washer I squeeze silicone into the woodruff key groove to keep oil from wicking out from it.

Leak's are my biggest pet-peeve. This works.

P.S. Make sure you have a PCV valve and it is open and working.

Put sealer on the rear main cap matting surface between the main seal and the oil pan rail surface will help reduce leaking.

I ordered one of those one piece seals, and I'm planning on using it tonight to button up the bottom end. NO sealer with those? I was planning on RTVing the corners, but if dry works, I'll go dry!