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Old 05-02-2008, 03:32 PM
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Leaking Quadrajet

Where exactly is the hole in a quadrajet that emties the bowl and what kind of epoxy do I use to fix it?

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Old 05-02-2008, 04:33 PM
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They are called welch plugs. plugs that were installed after machining some passages during manufacture. Pull off the throttle base plate to see them.

Sealer? I need to know as well. Maybe do a search here for quadrajet plugs?
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Old 05-02-2008, 04:57 PM
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I fixed one of these a month ago for a friend that wanted a good sealer. I took J&B and made a patch let it sit for eight hours, then took my power stripper, a 1100 degree hair dryer and went over a few times, then I took seal all and put some on my finger and wiped it all over the edges, so far has fixed his problem, but I'm sure there is a more professional way to do it
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Old 05-02-2008, 06:49 PM
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\re; leaking quadrajet

Quote:
Originally Posted by F&J
They are called welch plugs. plugs that were installed after machining some passages during manufacture. Pull off the throttle base plate to see them.

Sealer? I need to know as well. Maybe do a search here for quadrajet plugs?
Try a product called "Marine-Tex". It has always worked aces for me and will even repair a cracked diesel tank at sea.(not an ad!!!!!!!) Tom
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Old 05-02-2008, 06:50 PM
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A trick to the trade I learned on these after epoxy leaked countless times is to simply restake them without using epoxy, and it worked every time. Strip your Q-jet down to the bare body, and you'll see the extended away from the body well plugs, take a punch and a hammer and restake them in the middle. Then set the body on a 5 gallon bucket, fill the bowl with fuel, and you'll find the leaks are gone. Other times, there are other plugs as well in the Q-body you'll find that leak also, you can do the same 5 gallon bucket trick before you restake them to locate every area of possible leaks.
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Old 05-02-2008, 06:53 PM
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re;leaking quadrajet

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Originally Posted by DoubleVision
A trick to the trade I learned on these after epoxy leaked countless times is to simply restake them without using epoxy, and it worked every time. Strip your Q-jet down to the bare body, and you'll see the extended away from the body well plugs, take a punch and a hammer and restake them in the middle. Then set the body on a 5 gallon bucket, fill the bowl with fuel, and you'll find the leaks are gone. Other times, there are other plugs as well in the Q-body you'll find that leak also, you can do the same 5 gallon bucket trick before you restake them to locate every area of possible leaks.
good advice,I used the same trick on solex carbs on vw bugs for many years.Tom
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Old 05-02-2008, 10:43 PM
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Thanks to all of you for the help. This will be "An all new adventure" for me. It's on my wife's Pontiac and it must be done flawlessly. I've never had a Quadrajet off the intake. Thanks again.
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Old 05-03-2008, 09:24 AM
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There are two sets of plugs on a Qjet that are at the bottom of the float bowl. One set you can see in the picture below. They have the green epoxy on them. These are were two different passages are drilled to feed the primary metering rods/venturies. They are pretty small plugs and sometimes leak or fall out. These are the only two that, when loose, can leak into the engine. (There are some old carbs that actually had that part open but you won't see many like that.)

There are two more much larger plugs that plug the passage intersections that join the secondary jets/metering rods to the float bowl. Nine times out of ten, these plugs are sealed by the base plate, as you can see below. Even if these plugs get loose, the leaking gas has no were to go.

I've used JB weld in the past and it has softened up and fallen off for some reason. Maybe I didn't let it cure long enough. It used to work fine. Maybe try the marine stuff mentioned in a previous post.



Mark
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Old 05-04-2008, 10:38 PM
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leaking Q-Jet plugs

If I remember correctly, Dorman Automotive Hardware made a plug kit for this problem (which has occurred since the first carb came off the line in the 1965 model year). I don't know if they still have it but it worked without sealer. The kit also had a small "sponge" which was installed at the bottom, under the well. It worked great.
Good luck!
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Old 05-08-2008, 02:34 PM
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Using JB Weld smeared on the plugs (and there are 5) is a great way to assure that they leak again. The numerous heat/cool cycles the carb experiences will have it leaking in short order. The only way to eliminate the possibility of leaks is to drill out the plugs and thread the holes in the main body. Then buy (or make from the correct size bolt) some threaded plugs that fit. Take Marine Tex epoxy and fill the threads then run them home. Done.
Having these plugs leak into the engine is not the only issue. Constantly having an empty float bowl when you crank the car gets to be a pain.
The best way to assure that you've cured the leak is to pressurize the float bowl with some compressed air and put soapy water on your "fix". Just filling the float bowl doesn't always tell the tale. Funny things can happen when you install the carb on the engine and get it up to operating temp.
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Old 05-08-2008, 05:24 PM
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I've never had luck Marine Tex, always becomes brittle on me after heat and cool cycles, permatex makes a gas/radiator repair stick, you tear off and mix in hand, that has been gold to me, if you can't find plugs that is.
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Old 05-08-2008, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ortamenxs
I've never had luck Marine Tex, always becomes brittle on me after heat and cool cycles, permatex makes a gas/radiator repair stick, you tear off and mix in hand, that has been gold to me, if you can't find plugs that is.
You're corect the Perm stick does work very well. JB makes a similar product that works great to. Especially on gas tanks. Easier to work with if you moisten your fingers before neading the 2 parts together. Mixes better and does'nt stick to your fingers.
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Old 05-09-2008, 06:24 AM
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Marine Tex is a very good product for some applications, but 160 deg heat and it losses it's ability to bond. I use it all the time to bed rifle actions into the stock and it's great for that purpose. I've used it to glue in the action as well. When it comes time to remove the action, a little heat applied to the action with the wife's iron..........it comes right out. I use an IR thermomitor to monitor the heat on the action. Other epoxy type compounds will do the same thing..........can't take the heat.
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