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Old 02-28-2006, 01:28 PM
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Leaky Manifold

I recently bought a 1989 Iroc Camaro with the 305 tune port injection. I am getting a puddle of anti-freeze on the intake manifold every time I drive it. I had a '85 Corvette that did the same thing. What is it? Could it be a intake gasket? or is it coming up though the bolts? Can anybody help me? Hate to tear it apart without some ideas. Thanks!

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Old 02-28-2006, 03:03 PM
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Drive the car and get it up to temp with pressure in the system, check the upper radiator hose for stiffness, if it`s stiff, clean the coolant off the intake, with the car still running use a flashlight to shine around the area, give the engine a few revs so the pressure remains constant and builds, the leak will show itself.
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Old 02-28-2006, 03:25 PM
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DoubleVision- Thanks for the reply. I'll give that a try, although, I kind of did try that once. It's so darn hard to see everywhere with the tubes and stuff.
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Old 02-28-2006, 05:47 PM
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Doc here,

I have found on a 305 the passenger side front rail on the manifold to be very weak..If the bolts back off at all the leak like a sieve..Is this where you are getting the Anti Freeze?

NOTE DAMAGE TO MANIFOLD BLOCK~OFF PORT:



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Old 03-01-2006, 09:20 AM
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DOCVETTE- Yes it is on the passenger side. The driver side stays dry. Thanks! That's got to be the problem. Does this mean I tear it apart? or do you think some of that "Stop Leak "crap will work? I always wondered if that stuff was bad for radiators and heater cores.
Again, Thanks!
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Old 03-01-2006, 12:43 PM
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I never cared for the stop leak product, although I have used it. Even if it works, it is only temporary, and will probably start to leak again at a less convienient time or place. I would try to retorque it first and if that doesn't work, then schedule a time to reseal the intake. When you do the reseal you may also want to put sealant on the intake mounting bolt threads. I recently went through the same thing with my pickup's 5.7L engine, except the leak was on the drivers side. Let us know how it goes!
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Old 03-01-2006, 04:17 PM
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Doc here,

I used 2 cans of K&W Block seal, only to get it home..The advantage is it has copper suspended in the mix..and It leaves GOLD STAINS anywhere it has a leak..

This one was leaking so bad it looked like a locomotive piston brake at Idle..and I was 60 miles from home..It DID get me home, and help to pin point a lot of other damage..It did blow at all four blockoff points but wasn't leaking externally until it overheated.

That manifold is a weak spot and aluminum , on steel heads ..Electrolysis eats them alive..In my case as you will probably find in yours, there will be more damage after you pull the manifold...





I would pull the manifold, with the Idea in mind that it may require a replacement..

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Old 03-02-2006, 09:44 AM
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Thanks for the info! Looks like I have a weekend project ahead of me! Never pull a manifold with Tune Port Injection before. Looks a little scary!! A lot of crap to remove before getting to the manifold.
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Old 03-02-2006, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bfrett123
Never pull a manifold with Tune Port Injection before. Looks a little scary!! A lot of crap to remove before getting to the manifold.
I hear you brother. When I did the one on my Pickup I was hesitant too. I just labeled all the electrical connectors to make sure they went back in the right place (Later someone told me they were made to where you couldn't connect them to the wrong place, idiotproof, but I would still mark them if I did it again). I also took notes of anything I felt was relevant. You could also take pics with a digital first for reference if you're unsure going back together. Overall, it's just a manifold like any other, once you get all the crap out of the way! Go for it!
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Old 03-02-2006, 11:40 AM
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Oldsman- how hard was it to get at the manifold bolts? It looks like you just can't use a regular allen wrench. There's one hell of an angle. I bet it's hard to use a torque wrench in there also!! Any advice would be great!
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Old 03-02-2006, 12:19 PM
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I don't recall problems getting to the bolts. If yours has allen heads go to autozone and buy the hex sockets size you need, and maybe a universal joint if you think you'll need one. The allen sockets usually come in a pack of three. My only problem I had was with the coolant line fitting that was leaking and broke off when I tried to replace it. Broke off, cheap pot metal fitting. Had to go to machine shop to get the pos out. Other that, all went well. Also, sometimes you just can't get the torque wrench where you need to. That's when you have to resort to the calibrated wrist method!
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Old 03-02-2006, 01:11 PM
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Here's some info/pics that may help. Not your exact engine I don't think, but may help? http://www.iroczone.com/projintake01.html, http://www.projecttransam.com/projects2.asp,
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Old 03-02-2006, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bfrett123
Thanks for the info! Looks like I have a weekend project ahead of me! Never pull a manifold with Tune Port Injection before. Looks a little scary!! A lot of crap to remove before getting to the manifold.

Doc here,

A little tip before you proceed, that has served me well...

Get some Gunk, go to the 25 cent (HaH! not anymore..more like $2.00) Car wash, spray the warm engine down with the gunk, let it sit about 10 minutes, then set the washer to degrease, and spray it down, follow that up with a good rinse..you be glad you did later, clean engines are so much more easy to work with, and you may knock some of the rust off some frozen bolts.

Go to ACE Hardware or any , get some wire markers, the come in a pad about 25 pages long, numbers 1 through 9 and letters A Through Z...the back is a Sticky film that holds very well (provided you don't hose them down..)

Mark the Vacuum hoses as well as Wire, and fuel lines with a number/letter, and where it goes with the corresponding letter.

Next get a Styrofoam packing end (like they use for packing TV's and Fridge's) about the size of the manifold, Draw an outline on the Styrofoam of the manifold, and as you remove bolts from the manifold, push them through the Styrofoam.

This way, If some are longer than others, they will be in the right space,,(some manifolds are like that..) so you don't accidental crack a blind thread. put all your bolts in bags for the Accessory's (like power steering , smog pump Etc..mark the bag..) and pin them to the spot on the Styrofoam that the device would go on the car..takes the guess work out later..

Before you start, Go to the car, take with you your Digi Camera, Photo everything , take 100 photo's if need be..then upload them into your computer (so you don't accidental lose them ) For future referance..(you'll be glad you did!) You'll have your own pictorial guide putting it back together.

Once you get the manifold off, and runners cleaned up, (If your not having a shop hot tank it) Check the runners for warp with a steel straight edge and feeler gauge..make sure the gap s within spec. (should be able to find that in your manual).

After all is done, get 4 studs, long enough to go through the manifold, Screw them in the heads on all four corners of the heads..then place your gaskets on, (using the proper sealer..) then put in a few bolts, and unscrew the studs..This way the Gasket won't slide around as you try to manhandle the manifold back into position..and align the bolt holes, leaving the gasket open to damage and future leaks.

The Kit gives you 2 block gaskets for the front and rear of the manifold, these usually leak like crazy, I, and many other's chuck those gaskets an lay in a thick bead of silicone sealer on the block..this works much better..

BE SURE all the manifold to Head bolts have sealer on all the threads, these go into water jackets!

Other than cutting a cardboard tray to fit inside the valley to keep crud and small parts out of the lifters and oil returns..

Follow your torque sequence and two step tightening proceedure..

That's about it!

Let us know!

Doc
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Old 03-03-2006, 09:53 AM
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DOC- Thanks for the good advice! Believe me, I will label EVERYTHING! The engine in this thing is so clean you could probably eat off it. (except for the anti-freeze on the manifold). So that shouldn't be a problem. You're right about the cork gaskets for ends of the manifold. They belong in the trash. I recently installed a Edelbrock on a '31 Ford Street rod that I had. I used a rope size bead of silicone instead and small bead around the ports and never had a leak of any kind. Should I use silicone or LocTite on the bolts? I know some go into the water jacket, but I also read that they come loose if you don't use LocTite. And once everything is back together, the bolts are impossible to get at. Well, thanks again for the advise. I'm going to go dig out the digital camera now and hopefully get started this weekend!
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