I would start with four sets of 100's all around and see what happens, better to be too fat than lean sneeze it. Go with your first hunch...lean plugs are a tell-all. 82's are pretty small for what your running/doing, I would buy four sets of 92's for the next test+plug change and see where the drop-off is. You may have dodged a bullet by not having it pop the blower off from a sneeze already, best not to tempt fate...I would try jets next and keep going up until she can't take anymore.

Good plan not having the wife peer down the throat of the beast under full whallop.

BTW a little polished 4"X4" stainless "mirror" mounted at an angle over the carb clamped in a dial indicator stand works pretty well for these kinda things.

The 660's are as they were from Holley.

I was thinking along the same lines as you (getting no fuel). So, I took them totally apart, and checked everything, blew air through all ports.

According to instructions from Quick fuel, I no longer use the metal separator plate, Should I?

Four hole center squirt, 50cc and it dumps it in all four. Which I assume is why it hits so hard and fast.

After going through them and blowing everything out, I put them back on...and the same thing is going on.

So...With my ear plugs firmly in place...I fired it up, took a small mirror from my tools, aimed it so I could see the secondaries and flogged the bejesus out of it. When they open, fuel is absolutely coming out of the boosters.

I am wondering if this may be something weak in the ignition that just seems like it's a carb problem. I mean...it REALLY seems like a carb problem. But I am sure that nearly everyone here has been "sure" of one thing being a problem and have it turn out to be something else.

I have a set of vac, sec 750's I could try, but I would have to turn them sideways and buy new linkage. I hate buying stuff and not have it fix the problem.

I always seem to get the odd duck problems.

I'm running the "sneeze guard" on my blower, so that should keep it at low orbit.

That's another thing...the jetting seems odd. I have increased jetting to the point it would almost run on alcohol...and it behaves the same (aside from plugs turning black and a three foot flame blowing past my head from the zoomies when I let off).

The lack of change from jetting was what was making me lean toward something else.

This is something simple I am overlooking I'm sure. The mind tends to get a bit soft at my age.

The only reason I have doubts about the ignition is that it runs so darn flawless until I crack the secondaries. Fires right up, idles great, does not build too much heat, response is flat out nasty.

it's just weird.

You're running good gas, have you tried more timing? I'm running my 8-71 383, two BG 750's, on pump gas at 20 deg initial, 38 total all in at 2500, that's on the street. if I was racing it i'd pull some timing out with a BTM if I needed to, you have knock sensors on it?

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You can't run with the big dogs if you pee pee like a puppy...

Thanks for the ideas.

My first thought before the carbs was that the timing may be retarded. I have had a timing light give false readings before. So I went the extra mile to make sure I was right.

The timing is currently locked at 28 and I have ran it to 34 just to see if it would make any difference at all. Nothing.

I do have an MSD boost retard and MSD timing control box with the MSD box. But I have held off on hooking any of that up until I get the bugs worked out. I figure if it's just a distributor and coil...there is a lot less stuff to blame.

I have read a few complaints about the unilite dizzy. But, finding someone complaining about pretty much anything is easy on the net.

If a Unilite is no good, I would figure it would just croak and not run,but I could be wrong.

Another thought I had was maybe a weak coil. I'm kind of grasping at this point, even if it does not make total sense to me.

I think what I am going to try later today is to wire in my MSD box with an MSD coil and a new set of plugs (wires are new).

Speaking of the MSD box. The box needs a full 12 volts to work properly, but the Unilite requires a resistor. With the MSD box hooked to the Unilite, I assume I lose the resistor, right?

[Speaking of the MSD box. The box needs a full 12 volts to work properly, but the Unilite requires a resistor. With the MSD box hooked to the Unilite, I assume I lose the resistor, right?]

The resistor should be in the main power wire going to the Unilite.

MSD will require a main constant battery power positive and ground, and a switched power lead, with no resistor.

I have not seen a Unilite system in years. Could this be your problem? Most likely. IMO

I guess that just goes to show you how "behind the times" I am. I was under the impression that the Mallory comp 9000 was still a relatively popular distributor.

Too bad a stock HEI won't fit behind the blower. I have a new one of those I could install for a test.

On the resistor to the dizzy. I could not get a straight answer from MSD. So thanks for letting me know.

I asked about the resistor and their box, and the tech said "run the resistor if you want, but we do not feel it's needed".

Better safe than sorry I figure.

Myself and friends have never liked the Unilite, but have never tried running it with a MSD box, just as the Unilite itself. It'll never be my pick for a distributor, but I think you are right, it either works or it is flat dead, no spark at all.

If Quick Fuel says no seperator plate follow their instructions.

I'm running out of ideas

Just went back through you early posts and see that you are running the Unilite by itself like just an electronic points conversion, without some sort of CD type amplifier box(MSD or Mallory Hy-Fire). You could very well have not enough ignition power(spark output and intensity). I'd at least put the MSD boxes in using the Unilite for the trigger.

Unilite requires resistor to protect the module "eye", leave it in the line. The MSD wants full voltage.

Well, to be exact...Quick fuel did not "SAY" not to run the plate. But their diagram showed no plate. I'll give them a call tomorrow and find out for sure. Can't be the problem though, because it was doing it before I installed the quick fuel conversion.

Never had a unilite before this one. I ended up with it in a trade, and since I'm cheap...I used it.

Honestly...it's one of the more bizarre problems I have ever had...Meaning I am having one heck of a time diagnosing it.

I dislike throwing parts at something, but I am running out of options. I figure if I switch the ign system to something else...that will take it out of the loop as the culprit if it still acts up.

I'm running out of ideas too my friend. I'll get it figured out though. This kind of stuff eats at me so I can't sleep, so it's almost a must for me to fix it soon.

When I do finally figure it out. I will post it up...in case someone ever has a similar problem.

Will do.
I had thoughts along the same lines...With it over-driven so much. maybe it's not enough spark.

Hey guys,
I'm wiring in my 6AL, a timing control and some other junk.
Anyway, I wanted to take one last beat of the dead horse and get a second (third actually) opinion about something based on some new info.

It's about this ballast resistor. When I asked about it earlier. It was suggested that I still use it with the 6AL. Between the ign wire and the distributor. When I went out to my shop and looked, I noticed that I have the ballast resistor hooked up in between a 12 volt switched source and the positive side of the coil.

I thought I was onto something (like I hooked it up wrong). So, I start digging around and find that Mallory says that the resistor should be just like I have it (positive side of the coil) not to the distributor.

The tech question part of the Mallory web site suggest to not use a resistor with an ign box.

http://www.malloryperformance.com/T....aspx?ID=112301

Is the opinion still to run a ballast resistor with the 6AL and if so, hook it to the hot wire of the dizzy?

Never hook up a resistor to the hot wire going to the distributor. They only get hooked up to the positive of the coil.

What is the main power wire going to the unilite you speak of then?

You caught me posting wrong information.