Sorry, I didn't want to "catch" you doing anything.

Just wanted to make sure I was not misunderstanding the whole resistor or not to resistior deal.

Hey guys.

I just can't thank you enough for letting me bounce ideas off you and getting your feedback. It really helped and my problem is solved.

So here's the deal...When I do not know what is causing a problem, I like to change one thing at a time and try it, that way if something fixes it, I know what it was.

First thing I started with was a brand new set of plugs. I knew this was not going to fix it, but figured I would see if there was a difference. I fired it up and it still cut out. HOWEVER... the RPM at which it cut out was higher that previously, I figured I must be on to something.

I replaced the Mallory coil with a brand new MSD coil (no box yet). Lit it off and the problem went away completely when free revving. No cutting out at all. I took it out in my field, brought it up against the converter and really stood on it....The thing came out of the hole like a scared cat. I cannot wait to see what my 60 foot time is, I am like 90% sure it's quicker than it has ever been. I feel this is due to the quick fuel conversion and jet extensions. Anyway...I got out about 100 feet and at about 6000 rpm under load...it cut out, but nothing like before.

I rolled back into the shop, installed my MSD 6AL box and a timing control knob/box. Fired it up again and noticed right away that the idle was a little different..I think a little smoother (hard to tell with how loud this thing is).
Back to the field... and it ran like it was supposed to no cutting out at all (imagine that).

Now, I have had several blower motors and even built a few turbo motors. I don't think I have ever had one that would not run right without a box. The only thing that I can think of is the amount of static compression I have is pretty high for a boosted engine (which I normally don't do), along with it being over-driven quite a bit (gives it a nice pop ) maybe the amount of compression under boost was just a bit much for a regular ignition. Doesn't seem like it would be, but, it's fixed and that's what matters.

Thanks guys, I really appreciate it.

A race is right around the corner, I will scan in some time slips if my 60 foot improves like I think it did.

Thanks for the informative response. I wish more members would start doing this.

I swear by MSD, they are electronic wizards, when it comes to spark, and timing control. I have never had a engine failure, caused by ignition problems, when running their products. Their 'soft touch' rev limiter system, is just that, so soft you do not feel it, only your 'tell tail' tach will show what it is set at.

Glad you got it fixed. As a side note, this past weekend I noticed just about every blown drag car I saw was using BIG (MSD 10) boxes or else they were using a Magneto.

Yeah,
Up until this engine, I had the same old mag on every blowe motor (race rig). I would pass it from engine to engine.

The thing came over on the Mayflower, but it worked great. There was a period of a couple years that it was just sitting on a shelf and one of my buddies harangued me until I sold it to him.

This went against my rule of never sell anything...ever. I now know why I came up with this rule.

You never can have enough spark with a blown motor. Guess that's why they limit the mag in the nostalgia cars.
I like the multi spark systems for the cleaner idle and part throttle. In my own case it works great and I found that the cheap timing light works better than the high dollar one.

I noticed that as well. Not sure what that's all about, but I have a cheapo I bought once when I forgot mine at a race and needed a light. I think I paid like 60 some bucks for it (adjustable).
The one I had at my home cost enough that I am embarrassed to talk about it. Yet...it's not as consistent as the cheap one.
I was thinking that I just got a bad light, but if it's happening to you too, maybe there is something to it.

I third the cheapo timing lights work best with MSD.

My cheapo just quit, and I am going to try to find a deal on another one.

I do know it messes with the circuitry in the expensive timing lights.

Hey guys...
I went to the track last weekend and just wanted to give an update on how everything is working.

It's sort of a good new/bad news situation. The good news is that it's faster, the bad news is I am going to have to spend some money (and I'm cheap).

The first two passes were a bit shaky, I had to back out of it both times at about half track to get it straight.

I went ahead and installed my wideband tuner in one exhaust tube, I figured it would be better than nothing. I noticed that the "warning" signal was flashing on it. Which means my AFR went higher than 12.5 above 4500 rpm. So, I went back to my trailer to rejet. The AFR was at 14.1 and hung right around there from 4500 to around 7000 rpm. As most of you know, this will murder a forced induction engine. Anyway, I got the jetting right and finally got in a good, straight, full on pass.

It felt very good and faster...and it was. BUT, my 60 foot times went got worse. My MPH was higher than ever and my ET was the lower than ever, but my 60 foot got worse.

No big mystery there, I'm not hooking up like I should. I fooled around with suspension and tire pressure trying to make it hook. I reached a place on the suspension that "should" have made it point straight to the sky. Like something you would do for showing off instead of racing, and it still would not hook.

So, it's official, I don't have enough tire. Which means my engine is working better than it ever has, so, I can't really get too upset over it. Buying paddles for a sand dragger can be a bit tricky. You can easily get too aggressive of a paddle and they will try to snuff out your motor. This IS bracket racing, so in the big picture.... going faster or slower does not matter that much, as long as you can hit a number....but, nobody wants to go slower (I don't anyway).

I guess the end result of this long post is to say that the car is faster and thanks again for the help.

I have another race this coming weekend. I will have a more aggressive tire by then, will set everything accordingly and see what happens. From the numbers I am running, while spinning, I am guessing my 60 foot will be in the low 1.2's.

I'll let you know.

This is the part of 'fine' tuning I love. Getting the engine to perform, and then finding out you can't get it to the 'ground'.

Good luck on your tire change.

Yeah, at over a grand a pair...it's too bad they don't let you try different sets out before you buy .
The best you can do is to try to find a car that is similar to yours, with similar power, that went through a few sets of tires and landed on the right ones, then get those.

It most certainly is not a fool proof method, because no two cars are the same, but it's better than having nothing at all to go on.

Glad to hear it got worked out . No such thing as too much power, just not enough of something else(gear, tire, stall, etc.)

Oh...and I nearly forgot.
I ended up with 87, jetted square in both carbs to hit an 11.9 AFR at WOT. I doubt anyone could really use that info, but it might make a good starting point for someone with a similar engine.

good info. I just got my AFR installed and made the first good observations yesterday. I'm at 13.4-13.6 at idle. I was only ablt to run briefly inthe parking lot. I saw an 11.0 WOT but I had to get on the brakes and pay attention to the fence.

I'm just gathering parts for my blower. blower is due in 2 weeks and the carbs should be ready next week end. Just got the short water pump and pulleys.

Yeah, that pesky stuff in the way always cuts my test and tune short.

Here's something "odd". At idle, my engine stays at (get this) 14.7 and will flicker to 14.6 every now and again.
Just a fluke really, but I thought it was kinda funny that a blower motor with fairly large cam and some old 660 center squirts would idle away at 14.7.