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Old 11-10-2005, 07:28 PM
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Learning the hard way

I just threw my front end back together in my Dodge 4x4. To those with less experience working on front ends, I just want to warn you: Don't let your buddies separate front end parts by giving a whack on the stud with a hammer.

I wrote in my journal on how we mushroomed a tie rod end and I ended up replacing them both. Well that wasn't the end of it. I just invested another 100$ for a new drag link for the same mistake.

As if it wasn't enough to realize on my own that one shouldn't butcher their way through a job, in this week's Princess Auto catalogue the tie-rod end puller/drag link puller tool was on sale. Ain't that a kick in the teeth.

I shoulda known betta.

Paul.

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Old 11-10-2005, 07:36 PM
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or....use a "pickle fork"
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Old 11-10-2005, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poncho62
or....use a "pickle fork"

Or open the beer after the job is done....

In a while, Chet.
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Old 11-10-2005, 08:50 PM
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http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html I use one similar to this.It doesn,t rip the boot like a pickle fork.
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Old 11-10-2005, 08:54 PM
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Guys just take a hammer and hit the the socket where the tie rod goes threw. It will fall right out just a couple hard whaks.
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Old 11-11-2005, 02:18 AM
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Guys just take a hammer and hit the the socket where the tie rod goes threw. It will fall right out just a couple hard whaks.
Not always. But in most cases it will. A good rap on the side usually drops it. But when you get ones that are totally shot by rust....well, go for the puller.
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Old 11-11-2005, 08:31 AM
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back the nut off slightly, then wack the nut if you must. I prefer to use a pickle fork. I also work the boot so it usually is not tore up, but if it is, replacement boots are cheaper than ball joints and tie rod ends.

A 6" 1/2 inch extension or drift punch placed against the solid part helps keep the hammer from smashing the threads too.
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Old 11-11-2005, 03:36 PM
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Another lesson learned today...

At the risk of appearing like a bit of a dolt, I'm posting again in hope of helping someone avoid the same dumb mistake.

Just because the the air filter unit is srewed onto the carburator, doesn't mean you can leave your vehicle out in the rain without a hood.

Yes. Guilty here. I tried starting the truck and it cranked a bit and quit. Turned out I had a cylinder full of water. The rain made its way down the hole on the air cleaner cap into the motor even though the nut was tightened on.

I sucked out the water through the spark plug holes with an antifreeze tester and squirted some oil. cranked it over some more. I just hope no water got past the pistons and into the oil. Lucky for me it runs ok now.

This is my first motor/ mechanical job and I gotta say I not sure I'm handling too well the stress of all these mistakes. Thinking of just working on snowmobiles instead.

Schnitz, no beer was involved up to this point. Tonight, though, is a different story. I've stocked up. A lot. I think I deserve it

P.
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Old 11-11-2005, 03:57 PM
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put a BFH on one side of the socket and hit the other side of the socket with a not quite so big BFH and they will separate with just a couple of hits. Never had it fail.
Be sure to clean the crud out of the socket before installing the new joint and use a torque wrench to tighted. Will prevent all kinds of problems later.
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Old 11-11-2005, 05:56 PM
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was taught this method, works pretty good but WEAR SAFETY glasses maybe even a face shield, loosen the nut then put a bfh on the nut and then hit the hammer with another hammer.
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Old 11-12-2005, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolrods
was taught this method, works pretty good but WEAR SAFETY glasses maybe even a face shield, loosen the nut then put a bfh on the nut and then hit the hammer with another hammer.
Makes a nifty steeringwheel puller aswell, ball peen on the shaft and whack it with another hammer while putting pressure on the back of the wheel with your knees. For tierods I always leave the nut level with the end of the threads and whack it with a hammer, never had a problem that way.
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