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Old 08-15-2012, 09:16 PM
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Leather cone clutches

Iv'e done a few..Some of this is from experience and some is just word of mouth..So the experts are welcome to correct me/give the experience.

just some things..Leather hides can come in different thicknesses with weird names too - (1/4", 3/16".. 7/10 prime, 9/10 prime)..Pieces from the shoulder or sides..etc.. Even the 1/4" can be different thicknesses throughout the whole side - so when your planning out your pattern = use a mic to help you get a piece that is most consistent..

If you have an old piece of material - mic it and go with a piece of leather that is slightly thicker..
To thin of a piece and the clutch may "bottom out" inside the flywheel..
Approx 100.00 for a side of leather

Some Cone clutches are not completly flat - but have "indents" in them that allow bolts to draw down the leather and create a snug fit..


The original material just kinda "butted" up at a certain rivet pattern.. We bevel down our leathers and overlapp them and glue them together.. Allows me to do a Stretch fit over the cone..Less "play" in the material.. Once I am happy that the overlapp is smooth and even with the rest of the material thickness = I fit and drill my rivet holes in the leather..Sometimes I add more rivet holes to the cone clutch itself if the original had only a few..
>>Keep it a snug fit on the cone, no slop in the rivet/leather holes and eventually prep the surface with Neats foot oil..



I have been taught to put the smooth surface out..In my 8 years - I have had none come back.. But then again these guys probably only put 5 miles on them in a parade..

I dont use Kevlar.. Believe that the engagement of the clutch would be too harsh and chatter. Oil bath clutches may be different in this aspect.

Alot of these cone clutches have some type of spring loaded "marcels" = too put an outward pressure on the leather..As the clutch slams together - these Marcels try to ease engagement/ minimize chatter..Sometimes these can be adjusted after the entire relining process = as well as on the car as a final adjustment..

I take 2 days to do the whole process..Time for the glue to dry.. and alot of sanding to get the overlap right and a bevel on the leading edge.. Also when overlapping - I make sure that the leading edge is being pulled and not torn back = ( basically when the cone engages into a moving flywheel I want my edge to be pulled with it and not torn off like you would peel it away from the cone when removing... < hard to explain in this text = easier to show..
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:54 AM
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Very cool! Thanks for posting this and thanks for keeping these great old cars alive!

1 question: Is that an original center section, or did you have a stamping done? Very high quality work, what else do you do?
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Old 08-16-2012, 03:51 PM
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..center section

..If you mean - are the cone clutches originals or new "stamped" versions = they are all originals..I just spend some time cleaning them up before I start anything else...
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:05 AM
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Wow; I showed this to my boss and we were both really impressed with your attention to detail.

I was pawing around in the dark recesses of the warehouse looking for a Willys 77 gearset; so theres a need for things like this, its great to see people who keep these great old cars alive
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