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Old 05-25-2012, 12:00 PM
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Let's discuss Dynamat alternatives.

Personally, i hate dynamat and all the simular insulations. It gums up EVERYTHING. Threads, wires, gas pedals, etc etc. As the title states, lets discuss Dynamat alternatives...

Koolmat. Works great, a bit expensive for some.

Thermozite. Classic jute padding with a silver foil lining. Cost effective.

Go!

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Old 05-25-2012, 12:53 PM
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Anyone have experience with using duct work insulation?
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Old 05-25-2012, 01:46 PM
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@hp 246: Yes, it works great on duct work.

I think the problem with most sound deadeners/heat shield/ insulation products is that everybody tries to cover every square inch with it. Anything will work to some degree. I just got some stuff called trunk liner that is about 1/8" thick and has a peel and stick backing on one side and a fuzzy surface on the other. It's only 10" wide, but I'll bet it would do a good job of insulating and noise reduction. It sticks like crazy, and it was really cheap. Here's a picture:
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Old 05-25-2012, 06:24 PM
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I bought several 4X8 sheets of gen-set insulation for $10.00 per sheet. it's neoprene with a foil backing and about 1/4" thick.
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Old 05-25-2012, 06:30 PM
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The deal is dynamate is closed cell. I take that to mean it will not hold water . So better for the floor of the car.
Wicked sticky and wonder what the next guy will need to do when he needs to take it off for repair or some mod.
I used Brown Bread. Similar to Dynomat. little less money.
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Old 05-25-2012, 07:02 PM
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You really need to be talking apples to apples here. Brown Bread was made by B-Quiet, and is no longer available, and hasn't been for years. It has been replaced by B-Quiet Ultimate which has a higher butyl content. That means Brown Bread was part butyl and part asphalt, as is Ultimate.

Dynamat Extreme is totally butyl based, which means it is rubber, and has no asphalt. The other types of this product that are not butyl based are asphalt based, which means you might as well use roofing products.

Butyl based products are going to be more expensive than asphalt based products, and are going to be more heat resistant than asphalt based products or any combination of butyl and asphalt.

Closed cell and open cell has nothing to do with sound deadening or insulation, it refers to foam, like polyurethane, neoprene, and any other types of foamed products like PVC.

While any foam will demonstrate some tendencies to have sound deadening or insulating properties, it would not be superior to 100% butyl based products.

BTW, Shawn..........thanks for opening up this can of worms. There are Republicans , Democrats, and Independents, all of whom will tell you their ideas are superior. This topic has butyl proponents, butyl-asphalt proponents, and asphalt proponents, all of whom will tell you that their products are superior.

The other proponents are those of the Lizard Skin type products and people who will tell you that Lizard Skin can be made at home for a fraction of the cost.

Check out this thread: alternative to Lizard Skin Let's see if you can read this thread all the way through.
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Old 05-26-2012, 09:56 AM
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I really like Elemental Designs eDead V5 cTherm. It is a liquid. Can be brushed on. None of the hassles of a roll type material. I have also used their butyl roll type with great success. Of course surface prep is essential, but that should not be an issue for an upholsterer.
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Old 05-26-2012, 01:33 PM
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I used homemade lizard skin and thermozite on my coupe, i am liking it. Pretty quiet ride, and my feet don't warm up much after a 80 mile drive. ( the furthest I have strayed from home.
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Old 05-27-2012, 07:57 AM
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DanTwoLakes comments bring up an important question. Are you trying to reduce sound, or provide heat insulation, or both?

- If you are trying to reduce heat you need good complete coverage of the panel. For example you need complete coverage of the firewall to prevent engine heat from transferring to the passenger compartment.
- If you are trying to only reduce noise, you don't need full coverage to reduce the panel resonance. A few well-placed sections of insulation will significantly reduce the panel's ability to amplify or transmit noise. That is why many products are sold in relatively small sheets. These may work very well to reduce noise for door panels or trunks.

Closed cell foam does not absorb water, and that is an advantage for some applications. However, I'm not sure that affects its noise absorption or insulation capability.

Bruce
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Old 05-27-2012, 10:35 AM
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A big deal on the heat subject is having good underhood ventilation..even using a conventional fan to help move underhood air. If the ventilation is present then the heat will not be so bad and the insulation will work better..as far as sound smaller pieces that deaden the vibration of the body metal will help..On new cars there is 300/400 lbs of insulation and carpeting for the purpose of making the car quiet..

Sam
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Old 05-27-2012, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTwoLakes
@hp 246: Yes, it works great on duct work.

I think the problem with most sound deadeners/heat shield/ insulation products is that everybody tries to cover every square inch with it. Anything will work to some degree. I just got some stuff called trunk liner that is about 1/8" thick and has a peel and stick backing on one side and a fuzzy surface on the other. It's only 10" wide, but I'll bet it would do a good job of insulating and noise reduction. It sticks like crazy, and it was really cheap. Here's a picture:
Dan,

I am most interested. In heat disapation from the long tube headers that run under the floor boards. I am referring to the butyl foil backed insulation available for heat at the local hardware. I know it is not the same as dynamic mat wonder if anyone has tried it.
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Old 05-27-2012, 06:58 PM
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I don't think any of the asphalt or butyl based insulation products could handle the heat from exhaust pipes for an extended period of time.
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Old 05-27-2012, 07:30 PM
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Well,

I guess I'll bring this one up, as it had intrigued me for Years-The W.R Grace Company makes a Roofing Underlayment that is made from butyl Rubber with an adhesive backing-it's called Grace Ultra, and I wonder if it would work well in our application-it's 30 mils thick (Dynamat Extreme is 1.7 mil)-

http://www.na.graceconstruction.com/...../UL-005Q.pdf

Grace Ultra
Grace Ultra is designed to protect sloped roofs from the effects of wind driven rain and ice dams in applications where the membrane must withstand high, in-service temperatures for extended periods of time. This membrane offers excellent performance at elevated temperatures, in hot desert southwest climates or any application where superior heat resistance is a requirement.

http://www.na.graceconstruction.com/...c&did=8&id=144

(hope those Links work)-

What do youi guys think?
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:34 AM
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I'm not knocking your idea or the product, but the biggest complaint about Dynamat from most hotrodders is the cost of it. If this stuff is almost twice as thick, it's probably also twice as expensive.
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kristkustoms
Personally, i hate dynamat and all the simular insulations. It gums up EVERYTHING. Threads, wires, gas pedals, etc etc. As the title states, lets discuss Dynamat alternatives...

Koolmat. Works great, a bit expensive for some.

Thermozite. Classic jute padding with a silver foil lining. Cost effective.

Go!
Here is a page w/some info.
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