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Old 04-01-2013, 08:02 AM
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Lets see your door braces

I am going to build a pair of door braces for my '65 Rustang convertible and am looking for ideas.

Right now my thought is to make a triangular brace which will mount to each of the door hinge locations, and to the striker plate area.
Each of the spreader rods will be a "turn buckle" to be able to allow preload.

Am I overthinking this?

Lets see some photos of how you did it!

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Old 04-01-2013, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Fool View Post
I am going to build a pair of door braces for my '65 Rustang convertible and am looking for ideas.

Right now my thought is to make a triangular brace which will mount to each of the door hinge locations, and to the striker plate area.
Each of the spreader rods will be a "turn buckle" to be able to allow preload.

Am I overthinking this?

Lets see some photos of how you did it!
That's exactly the setup I'll be using for my 66 442 convert. I'd suggest a couple of side-to-side diagonal braces as well to prevent twisting. If you plan to remove major sheet metal sections like floor pans for repair, you might want to consider biting the bullet and actually tack welding braces in place for added rigidity.
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:56 AM
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Not to throw a kink in the plans but there are window regulator mounts and door handle mounts involved in the inner door structure so I would suggest sheet metal and follow the plan of the original for that..

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Old 04-01-2013, 11:36 AM
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Why do you need them is the first question, that is where it is often over thought like the body is going to fall if half if you don't use them. You may, sometimes you do, I am just asking.

Brian
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Old 04-01-2013, 12:04 PM
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I assume you are talking braces to replace the doors when you put your body on a rotisserie? If that is the case, then I agree with Joe Padavano - you want to keep things right where they are as you replace panels.
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:42 PM
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I need to replace both inner rocker panels and the front floor sections on the '65 Rustang 'vert.

Maybe the outer rocker panels are good enough to hold things while the inners are replaced?
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:10 PM
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No, in that case adding some reinforcement is a good idea. I like to be able to hang doors and trial fit when doing something like that so welding a piece of tubing across the door opening on the inside pinch weld at the firewall and at the quarter is a great way to go. You use something like 1" square tubing with a nice little bead welding it on each end. When you are done you just cut the weld with cut off disc when you are done. While you are changing the rocker you can hang the door and check fit before welding, or even during welding.

I am BIG on trial fitting parts, it is time very well spent.

Brian
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:31 AM
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You should brace it....When you are sure everything is where it should be,So gap your doors FIRST then X brace from the inside so you can open and close the doors.dont forget to weld the intersection of the braces.and use jack stands under the suspension
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:43 AM
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MS & DBM, I like your advice. Save me a few dollars too

Thanks
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
You should brace it....When you are sure everything is where it should be,So gap your doors FIRST then X brace from the inside so you can open and close the doors.dont forget to weld the intersection of the braces.and use jack stands under the suspension
Oh my God Mike, VERY IMPORTANT good thing you caught that!


Brian
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:32 AM
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when not 100% sure brace it. I once did a hinge pocket patch on an A pillar for an old chevy truck. Went to a chevy truck site and they all said it's ok not to brace it. As soon as I cut it out I literally saw it sagged 1/8". Always look for what will hold it up structurally. That will help you lots.
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Old 04-05-2013, 03:22 PM
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This is a little extreme but it'll show just how much bracing does...
I used 1x1 for to keep the width and 1/2 x1/2 in the door openings which worked ok but I really like 3/4" electrical conduit ,its cheap and comes in 10' lengths I used it for the trunk area to keep the car square,just smash the ends flat and you can either weld it or what I used was 10mm drill screws,I prefer the drill screws and I've used the conduit ever since..
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