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Old 12-12-2005, 09:46 AM
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letters to ci

hey guys i just got a quick question about letters to ci converstions..
i can usualy only get an idea of about how mbig an engine is unless i know the ci or horses,

and i got one more question, dose the bolt count on your rear differntial?,,, ect. like 9, 12, 15.

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Old 12-12-2005, 11:12 AM
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http://www.metric-conversions.org/vo...bic-inches.htm

There is your Liter to cubic inch conversion calculator.


The number of bolts often helps identify what rear end you have. That with the shape of the pumpkin housing/gasket for the cover.
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Old 12-12-2005, 04:20 PM
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Liter to Cubic inch conversion

To convert cubic inches to cubic centimeters, multipy cubic inches by 16.39.
IE: 302 cubic inches X 16.39= 4950 CCD. or 4.95 Liters, rounded off to 5 Liter.
To convert CCD to CID, divide CCD by 16.39.
1000 CC = 1 Liter.

The gear cover count of bolts as well as the pattern of the bolts distinguishes the size rear end.
Other identifiers, 8 inch Ford vs 9 inch Ford. Looking straight at the bolts holding the pumpkin in the rear end, you can see the bolts below the pinion shaft collar on a 9 inch and cant on an 8 inch. Also as a general rule, an 8 inch housing, looking at it from the rear will be smooth and rounded like a basketball, while a 9 inch will have a step in it, for clearance for the ring gear.
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Old 12-12-2005, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Keith
To convert cubic inches to cubic centimeters, multipy cubic inches by 16.39.
IE: 302 cubic inches X 16.39= 4950 CCD. or 4.95 Liters, rounded off to 5 Liter.
To convert CCD to CID, divide CCD by 16.39.
1000 CC = 1 Liter.
I just like to remember that there are about 61 cubic inches in a liter, and thus, 6.1 cubic inches in 0.1 liters... makes it easy to do in my head.
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Old 12-12-2005, 07:29 PM
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SAE to Metric and back again

Works for me, and using 61 vs 61.1 only really starts to matter when you get over 10 Liters.
Gee, you mean there are actually 6.11 cubic inches in 100 CC?
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Old 12-12-2005, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Keith
Looking straight at the bolts holding the pumpkin in the rear end, you can see the bolts below the pinion shaft collar on a 9 inch and cant on an 8 inch.

Also as a general rule, an 8 inch housing, looking at it from the rear will be smooth and rounded like a basketball, while a 9 inch will have a step in it, for clearance for the ring gear.
Hey Max
On the bolts.... I think your fingers got the 8 and 9 keys mixed up.

You can get a ratchet/socket on the 8" rear end lower bolts. The 9" lower bolts require an end wrench.
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Old 12-12-2005, 10:20 PM
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OOOOooooooooopppppppppppppppppppsssssssssss

Thanks xntrik, My bad Glad someone spotted that err.
You are right, I did get the 8 and 9 keys backward.
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Old 12-13-2005, 07:00 AM
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A lot of people like to apply "10 bolt" rear end (a GM) to everything. The ring gear size (Ford 9", 8", 8.8", etc., refers to ring gear diameter) is really the only way to judge strength. In general, the larger the ring gear, the stronger the rear axle. That in mind, it makes sense that a larger ring gear requires a larger housing, so more bolts on the back cover (as in GM, some Chrysler, AMC, and Dana axles) is a good way to easily identify some axles. Axles with a "hog head" (welded or cast in rear cover, no bolts on rear, front section bolts out with pinion and diff as a unit) aren't as easily identified by the number of bolts. That would be some Chrysler (8.75"?) and the big Fords (8.8"? definitely 9"). I'm like most people -- only intimately fmailiar with the brand I deal with most, and a couple of the more common swapped in axles. Ask me anything about an AMC axle and I can give you a quick answer! The others I'm not so familiar with.
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