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Old 11-24-2003, 04:57 PM
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Lifter question

Well, I had some time today so I decided to re-check my pushrod height with an adjustable pushrod.

My previous post was when I was using the Manley gray plastic pushrod height checker and I determined that I needed pushrods .100 shorter than stock. ( still doesn't make any sense with stock stuff)

Anyway, I got a solid lifter to run the roller rockers on the stems. I set the adjustable pushrod .100 shorter than stock and rotated the motor a few times and checked the stem pattern. Way off!!!

I then noticed that the stock pushrod next to it was WAY taller than the adjustable. After checking the solid lifter, I measured the plunger height on the hydralic and the solid was .125 shorter!? Is this normal? Doesn't seem right.

My Crane cam has the stock base circle diameter. I then checked my Crane lifter against a pure stock Sealed Power lifter and the SP is about .025 TALLER than my Crane lifter! LOL What a mess!

Any ideas on the diff between the solid vs. the hydralic plunger height? Thanks.

Mark

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Last edited by Jmark; 11-24-2003 at 05:07 PM.
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Old 11-24-2003, 06:08 PM
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I don't know if I understand what you have done, so I will just run through it with you. First of all, do not use a solid lifter, use a hydraulic lifter that you have made solid. Buy a spare lifter and rearrange the guts or add stuff to make it solid. You need to have a lifter that is the same dimension from the contact point on the can to the pushrod cup. Once you've done this, establish the proper contact pattern on your valve stem with your adjustable pushrod. When you've got it right, measure the pushrod and then add what you want for preload. I'm not sure what kind of engine or application you are running, but preload will vary from about .020 on a performance setup, to about .060 on a street motor. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-24-2003, 06:31 PM
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.030 over Chevy 350. Crane hydralic 276 cam. Crane anti-pump up lifters. ( came in a kit form, cam and lifters.)


Well, I was trying to use a solid lifter because Crane does NOT want the hydralics filled up until after the preload is set at final assembly. Then they want the engine oil primed and rotated by hand to fill the lifters.

My main question was, is the plunger height supposed to be the same on a solid verses a hydralic lifter.

I went ahead and pumped up one lifter, installed it, put in the .100 short pushrod and roller rocker and then set my preload at 1/2 turn. Just so happened that the lifter got hard just at 1/2 turn too! Got lucky there.
I then checked the stem pattern. It was dead center after 6 crank revolutions.


Mark
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Old 11-24-2003, 07:03 PM
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The solid lifter push rod seat should be deeper into the lifter than the hydraulic, when the hydraulic lifter is adjusted on a production engine it is usually .040-.060 down in its adjustment travel. This allows for plenty of error in the stock setup.
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Old 11-24-2003, 10:08 PM
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Thanks Bob. I never figured the solid would be any lower. Sure is a huge difference in the lifters though. Glad I checked before I put it all together.

Mark
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Old 11-25-2003, 07:22 AM
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Try this. Set the adj puhsrod checker to stock length (7.790"). Use a hydraulic lifter, the same type you are going to use running. Use some super glue to make it solid. Use this tool to determine your pushrod length. A lot of guys run their hydraulics with little pre-load. This makes the pushrods, in effect, a little longer. Yes the solid lifters pushrod seat is lower than the hydraulic, but with the hydraulic set at zero lash + i turn down, it's closer.
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