[69fordranger]

I am in over my head, please help. I own a rust free 1969 Ford F100 Ford Ranger pickup. When I purchaced the truck it was leaking severe oil from the rear main seal.

I took it to a back yard mechanic, that was supposed to be an expert. He pulled engine replaced flex plate starter all engine gaskets and seals and timing chain. He told me he was going to adjust the lifters. When I went to pick up the truck, it was ticking quite bad. Seams to be coming from the passenger side. He said there was no adjustment so he did nothing!

So now I have some decisions. Here is what I know, this engine has hydraulic lifters, with non-adjusting tappets. I have been told that on these engines you can possibly build a long tool and pull the lifter straight out without removing intake? Is this true? I have had valve covers off and you can see the lifters.

I was told that if I remove the tappet assembly and push rods that the lifters should all rise. If they don't then that is the collasped one.

There have been times when the tapping goes completely away...completely. But it is not often.

I originally had 5w30 and now 10w 40, no difference.

PLEASE advise what I should do first??

Please keep in mind I am not a mechanic, just guy that over spent trying to fix this. Any advise would be much appreciated.


Greg

[stroker_SS]

The rocker arms on the FE are in fact adjustable. If you have a good understanding of checking/setting valve lash it's quite simple using the lash adjusters on the pushrod side of the rocker arm, if you're "mechanic" cant even figure out lash adjustment I don't think I would trust ANY of the work he did to your truck. Too many people out there *think* they know how to work on engines, but in reality have know clue.

My advice to you is to research as much as you can about FE engines BEFORE you go getting yourself into more trouble. IF and only IF the lifter is collapsed due to sludge/varnish/dirt than a few runs of Marvels Mystery Oil would do the trick.

Hope you figure this out before it gets worse, that's a nice truck. Take care of it.

[h0trod389]

THERE ARE ADJUSTABLE AND NON ADJUSTABLE valvetrain for the FE's
if its the adjustable type( which were for highperformance applications) then you can adjust it and see how it does, if its the non adjustable type, you can make sure the rocker assembly is tight. what does your rocker assembly look like on the pushrod side? is it a solid piese, or are there threads inbetween the rocker and the pushrod?

[69fordranger]

It in fact in non adjustable, there is no adjustable nut on the rocker arm. It is just a solid arm.

[oldbogie]

Originally Posted by 69fordranger

I am in over my head, please help. I own a rust free 1969 Ford F100 Ford Ranger pickup. When I purchaced the truck it was leaking severe oil from the rear main seal.

I took it to a back yard mechanic, that was supposed to be an expert. He pulled engine replaced flex plate starter all engine gaskets and seals and timing chain. He told me he was going to adjust the lifters. When I went to pick up the truck, it was ticking quite bad. Seams to be coming from the passenger side. He said there was no adjustment so he did nothing!

So now I have some decisions. Here is what I know, this engine has hydraulic lifters, with non-adjusting tappets. I have been told that on these engines you can possibly build a long tool and pull the lifter straight out without removing intake? Is this true? I have had valve covers off and you can see the lifters.

I was told that if I remove the tappet assembly and push rods that the lifters should all rise. If they don't then that is the collasped one.

There have been times when the tapping goes completely away...completely. But it is not often.

I originally had 5w30 and now 10w 40, no difference.

PLEASE advise what I should do first??

Please keep in mind I am not a mechanic, just guy that over spent trying to fix this. Any advise would be much appreciated.


Greg

More likely than not the lifter's internal stop valve is leaking which allows the plunger to sink inside the lifter as the cam lobe pushes it against the valve spring. This lets a lash develop and the lifter depending on how much lash ticks to clatters. It is hammering the lobe to death. This is a common FE problem. There is the suggestion that the lifter be pulled out the top with a tool. See here http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W84004/

My experience with these successfully removing lifters from old engines is zip.
Lifters develop a hard ridge of varnish below the moving surface, though the ridge is small, I've had very little luck in getting the removal tool to transfer enough force to shear it off the lifter. In the end I usually have to remove the intake which on an FE is a heavy undertaking requiring removal of the rocker shaft assembly and pushrods. Then attacking the top of the lifter with a pair of Vise Grips.

First you need to ID which lifter (s) are doing this, you'll need an intake gasket set. Don't forget the bypass hose to the water pump, they inevitably are rock hard and rip apart on disassembly. This goes a lot easier with a buddy to help remove and replace the intake. The cast iron FE intake is a good 60-70 pounds and navigating that onto fresh gaskets without ruining them is a challenge when doing it alone.

Give yourself about 4 to 6 hours with hand tools and part cleaning time.

Bogie

[cliff tate]

the only fes that have adjustble lifters ar hp with solid lifters. In your case pull the rockers and all the lifters, check the camlobes,if wear markes allthe way across the hich point of any lobes you will need a newcam as well.if lobes ok put allnew lifters in.watch for worn rockers and the end of the valves,if these ar warn new lifters will not solve the isues.re intake gasgets use a good contact cement and glue tohead and block. then grease the int side of the gasgets,this gives some leayway when assembling.get some help as the manifold is heavey. good luck. cliff

[69fordranger]

took tappet assembley apart tonite. I have one push rod with slight bend in it. This is where the noise is coming from. I inspected all lifters tru the head and none appear to be colasped. I am going to measure my push rods tonite. Apparently there are 4 sifferent lengths available. Then I will see if I can buy one push rod and reassemble.

I feel maybe the guy who worked on truck did not install properly and damaged the rod at install.

Greg

thanks for comments keep them coming

[Irelands child]

Ahhh the wonderful Ford FE.

About the only things I disagree with Bogie on is the weight of the intake - bare - an iron version is 84 pounds, then add a carb some claptrap and a few fittings and you are nearing 100#. Next - plan for an all day job unless you have done it before - 4-6 hours would be good time for a newbie. Remove the hood before you start - you'll appreciate the fact that you can use a chainfall or at least be able to get on top of that engine to lift the intake - it is HEAVY plus awkward. Next - as long as you are that far into the engine, replace the timing chain and gears - it's only another hour or so.

Let us know how you make out

Dave W