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Old 03-12-2012, 08:48 AM
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light rust on floor boards, wwud?

i'm starting on my 59 rambler prodject and there is some rust on the floor boards, so far the floor are in ok shape and not rusted through. what do you guys recommend to do, should i clean the rust off with a rust remover like naval jelly or similar product? or should i use a rust converter or paint on it?

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Old 03-12-2012, 10:07 AM
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rusty floors

Hi,i would put OSPHO on the rusty floors,after the rust is gone (turns black)clean the floors LIGHTLY with 320 paper,then spray or brush floors with 2k epoxy primer,maybe 2 good coats,then paint,or carpet,your choice...
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:47 PM
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I have had good luck with POR45. Clean off the surface rust with a steel brush and brush on the POR45.

BT
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Old 03-12-2012, 01:58 PM
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To prep the floors properly, you would need to knock the rust down, wire brush on a drill works well, get ALL the loose rust out, then use some epoxy primer. Basically what you want to do is seal the surface so you don't get the rust back, a couple of coats of epoxy will do this. Ospho, Por15, all do the same thing but why would you risk failure if the Ospho isn't neutralized properly, Por15 is expensive and hard to overcoat. You can get the same results with epoxy primer for less money. But, no matter what you do, if it is not prepared properly, it ain't gonna work.
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:26 PM
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I just had to strip an entire car, because the last paint shop sanded it then relied on epoxy primer covered with 2K primer, without using any acid product to neutralize the rust.

By the time I got it, there were tiny buds of rust coming up through the paint... and also under all of the bodywork. Needless to say, the price of avoiding any rust-neutralizing product was very very costly. Why take the chance, and just try to bridge over the rust???

A bottle of metal prep is probably $20... much cheaper than epoxy primers! In 47 years of painting... 25 full time... I have never had any rust come back under the paint!

I have another story. I am repairing paint problems on a street rod I painted a candy color. The paint is starting to "pick up"... or "bridge"... in the corners. The problem is the adhesion between the epoxy and the 2K primers that the last shop before me put on it.

As a favor, I called to say they needed to pay close attention to the time window when using the two products. They said they do, but it has happened pretty often anyway. (I wonder why they are stll using it???) If I use it, I would let it dry, then sand thoroughly before applying the 2K.

P.S. I use only 2K primer. If it is going to sit a while, I add a coat of sealer.

Your choice... but I did my part.

Now you guys can go ahead and tell me that I don't know what I'm talking about... but I guarantee my work for as long as they own the car. Do you? :-)

Last edited by TucsonJay; 03-12-2012 at 03:33 PM.
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:25 PM
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I always let my epoxy primer dry overnight or longer if I can before I put on 2-k primer. I also scuff well with a red scuff pad or lightly hit it with some sand paper.I would think in az you may get by with less time. I managed a shop in Phoenix, az in the late 80s and it was great the way paint set up out there.
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swvalcon
I always let my epoxy primer dry overnight or longer if I can before I put on 2-k primer. I also scuff well with a red scuff pad or lightly hit it with some sand paper.I would think in az you may get by with less time. I managed a shop in Phoenix, az in the late 80s and it was great the way paint set up out there.
I think that your willingness to sand is a guarantee of less problems. The people I am following must have tried to shoot within the time window, so they would not have to put the effort into it.

I know what shop temps you have to deal with back there. Also the issue of rust! :-( I moved here from the upper Midwest in '75. It's a dry 78 here today. :-)
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:01 PM
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A lot of shops wait long enough to mix up the 2-k and then go at it [will not work well.] Even with shop heat in winter here it takes a while to set up good.I loved the weather in az when I was out there. Although we cant kick about the winter we had this year here. It was 66 today and is suppose to be in the 70' the rest off the week. Didnt have to clean the drive of snow one time yet this winter to my shop. As I said liked the weather in az and loved the area just didnt like the right to work state part. Tanslates to I have a right to pay you as little as I can get by with. Managed a small shop off cave creek rd in phoenix 86-88.
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Old 03-12-2012, 10:24 PM
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I do prefer the removal of rust other than just painting over it. I always felt that if there was rust under the paint it could still spread.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:19 AM
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like boatbob said get rid of the rust . if blasting is not an option naval jelly will remove it but you must rinse the jelly off BEFORE it drys . once clean seal it up with 2 coats of epoxy and your good to go. slight surface rust is not a big problem but painting over scale rust is bs period.

and i use only epoxy on jobs. no urethane primers at all.
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