I removed the 3 phase motor and purchased a single phase 230 volt motor. It cost me 250 dollars for the new motor. The new motor connects to the bottom of the hydraulic unit with four bolts just like the 3 phase motor. It is an industry standard bolt flange. 56 C or something like that. The motor I purchased also had the side plate that bolted up to the vertical support structure in the original holes. It was smooth, just unbolt one and bolt in the new one. There is an adapter on the motor shaft that must be removed and put onto the shaft of the new motor. This adapter used an allen head set screw that tightens down to the flat on the motor shaft. The adapter is slotted and engages the slotted drive of the hydraulic pump. Be careful in measuring and in determining the location of the adapter on the shaft. You don't want it too loose or too tight to the hydraulic pump drive lug.
First thing to do is to remove the four lift arms. This takes quite a bit of weight off what you have to move as one piece. Take note of the cable end with the bolts as to their location. My bolts threaded on about three inches from the end.
In terms of moving the unit, just unbolt the two posts (six) bolts. You have to lift each post about 3 - 4 inches in order to get the cable ends out past the pulleys. There is a hole in the top of each H beam post to put a clevice. This is the best place to lift. A fork lift makes the job easy. Once the two cables are out, they should be carefully wrapped not too tight and put in a clean bag or wrapped. Also inspect them for any damage prior to reassembly. The base is as you say about 11 and a half feet wide and is not too heavy. The slave post weights around 700 punds according to my calculation. The post with the hydraulic pump, tank and motor I would guess to weigh around 850 pounds. Before moving the post with the hydraulic unit, unscrew from the top of the tank the breather and put a pipe plug in its place for transportation. I think it was 1/2 inch pipe thread but don't recall exactly, but it is a standard pipe thread plug and should go in nicely just turning with you fingers. Once you have screwed it in by hand give it just a little bit of tightening with a wrench. Don't need much tightening, mine didn't leak a drop. If you fail to do this operation, you will have hydraulic oil all over the floor. When you install the hoist don't forget to put the breather back in. Anyway with a forlift just move the three pieces on to a flat bed trailer, tie down and transport to new location. Be careful of the heavy piece that holds the lift arms because it will slide or allow the post to slide.
I do not advise modifying the lift to make it thinner. It is a really excellent design and can almost be installed without concrete anchors...........but these must be installed in any case.
Because my garage doors are only 8 feet high, I had to drag the posts into the garage at an angle before I could lift them vertical. They are about 8 and a half feet high. This is simple, just lift the post off the trailer outside the garage and then carefully back the forklift into the garage. The forlift forks were put in the upside down position so the rack would not be an issue. Also the forklift forks were in the center position and held a steel beam that was about four or five feet long with a clevic hole at the end. When you back into the garage make sure to have the forklift down so you don't hit the top of the door frame or door. I put the bottom of the post on a heavy piece of wood (2 x 10) so it could slide without damage to drag it into the garage. Once inside the garage, I closed the overhead door so that I had my ceiling height back. Depending on your situation you may have higher doors and higher ceilings and don't have to worry about this step.
When you thread the cable through on installation make sure that the cable on the slave post goes behind the wheels of the safety catch. The catch engages when the cable goes slack.
I was able to move the hoist in my garage by hand to do a bit of fine tuning as far as location using a wood block and crowbar. Need to check the location of the garage roof trusses to make sure that the hydraulic cylinder would go up where there was no truss. I have a ten foot ceiling and the cylinder goes up onto the attic. I just build a little insulated box where the cylinder goes up and can get the hoist to full height. I am lifting Corvettes which are only 4 feet high so ceiling height is not an issue. For tall vehicles a 12 foot or higher ceiling would be much better.
I can't comment too much on the value......I got mine for very cheap and even with forklift rental ( I did my own operation of the forklift ), cost of motor I am under 900 dollars.
The last little hurdle is to wire the magnetic motor starter. Mine had a Furnas motor starter. When I started this project I knew nothing about these things, but now I know enough to wire one. It is very simple.
I am totally satified with the hoist. Looking at the way the new ones are designed, I don't think my low ceiling and 4-5 inch concrete floor could accomodate them.
I have probably left out a few small details since I did mine, but I think my text here captures most of the job. If you have any further questions please send me an email and I will get back to you or repost on this site.
I forgot to mention that the two posts each have two pulley wheels on the bottom that stick below the flange of the post by about one or two inches. DO NOT set the post down on the wheels or they could be damaged. If you are temporarily setting the posts down in the vertical position, place a few 2x6's or equivalent around the base so the wheels are clear. Also if you have to drag the posts make sure the wheels are free.
Last edited by slarsen47; 12-14-2004 at 08:48 PM.