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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2009, 03:13 PM
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Link to Rust Wiki Dealing with Rust

In order to provide a fast look up to the rust wiki I am posting the link here: http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Rust Lots of information on what rust really is and various ways of dealing with it.

I am also making this a read me at the top of the forum to make it easily accessible to the people needing it.

Sam

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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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Old 03-11-2009, 06:31 PM
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That takes all the fun out of our rants and raves!
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Old 04-20-2009, 01:23 PM
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getting rid of rust

one easy solution to ridding rust is using zero rust prep. this is a non acid phosphatizing powder mixed with water and sprayed on with water sprayer or power washer. zero rust prep will disolve light rust into a dust. you should hand tool any scaling or bubbling on the metal. depending on how tight the rust is you wont need to sandblast. the zero rust prep will then condition the metal to a ph6 which is nearly neutral and perfect for painting, this will also provide a 30 day window unless of course the surface is grounded, when you see the light dust if you want to remove it, just use air or a paper towel. then when the prep step is dry apply zero rust rust inhibitor and you will be protected against rust for many years, **************
is the website of the distributor who happens to be me. if i can help let me know.

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Old 10-25-2009, 09:12 PM
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ive got it

if its not sandable cut it out if its not metal its not a rod its a no brainier bondos makes a mess's also lead it i plan to get my shop going good enough i plan to teach the right way to people and pay then instead off uti turing out people who make mess's for people like me there post on that little bit for conversational peace
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Old 10-26-2009, 06:49 AM
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Use some punctuation. Your post is very hard to decipher. Also a pass through the spell checker wouldn't hurt.
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Old 01-21-2010, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willys36@aol.com
That takes all the fun out of our rants and raves!
02 ???? lol,you guys have been argueing about this for that long???? I need to get out more....
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2010, 04:22 AM
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67 Mustang bare metal restoration.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pompano100
one easy solution to ridding rust is using zero rust prep. this is a non acid phosphatizing powder mixed with water and sprayed on with water sprayer or power washer. zero rust prep will disolve light rust into a dust. you should hand tool any scaling or bubbling on the metal. depending on how tight the rust is you wont need to sandblast. the zero rust prep will then condition the metal to a ph6 which is nearly neutral and perfect for painting, this will also provide a 30 day window unless of course the surface is grounded, when you see the light dust if you want to remove it, just use air or a paper towel. then when the prep step is dry apply zero rust rust inhibitor and you will be protected against rust for many years, **************
is the website of the distributor who happens to be me. if i can help let me know.
Just thought i would ask you about treating the internal area of the doors i have off the mustang . AS you can see from the photos they hava only surface rust inside which is great for original doors that are over 40 yrs old. While i have the internal vent windows stripped out for re-chroming, i thought i would proof coat the inside to prevent any further rust. There is bare metal from the 67 factory build.
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Old 02-27-2010, 08:06 AM
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The problem with the mustang doors is when they have a little rust in the corners the whole bottom is usually ready to blow out and the bottom lip is almost gone...If it was me I'd replace the outer door bottom and replace the lip that the skin folds over.Thats a lot of work your doing, if it only lasts a year or two and before its rusts through...once the bottom 4-6" of the skin is removed getting the inside cleaned up is easy.
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Old 02-27-2010, 08:49 PM
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67 Mustang door

Thanks for taking the time to send the photos of the 67 door rust repair.It looks like you have a bodyshop. I am still learning and hired a guy to fix a thick bondo job. He used the gas and shrank a lot of the trouble near the rear lights. I imported the car here in Tasmania from Pinon Hills (2hrs out of L.A) Ca. 2 yrs ago and have the 347 rebuilt and going and have worked on the body since.
There were no rust blisters in the corners of the door ,just small dents.
I have looked closer inside the door with a bright light down into the corners you are talking about but could not find more than surface rust so i used a rust treatment i painted in there with a small brush and followed it with primer and gloss black. Do you think there is rust behind the door hinge reinforcement plate.
Do you think there is any point in spraying wax in there to prevent any further corrosion.
Cheers from downunder.
Al.
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Old 11-29-2010, 04:23 PM
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Heat from extractors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
02 ???? lol,you guys have been argueing about this for that long???? I need to get out more....
Just a question for you db man as you would have seen lots of what i am on about here. Its not a rust related question but having finished the paint on the 67Mustang and having run the engine on a test bed to run it in i am wondering about the heat from the extractors on the 347 affecting the paint on the hood. There is more heat there than the standard cast exhaust manifold. The paint is acrylic and not two pack .Maybe nothing to worry about when the car is moving down the road with air flowing under the car. Any thoughts ( stick on insulation maybe be heat affected also)
???
Al.
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Old 11-29-2010, 09:10 PM
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No worriers mate....My race car buddies are running big turbos without any troubles.I'd be more worried about those pretty blue pipes..You could always use a header wrap...The car looks really good and was done in good time too.
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Old 11-29-2010, 10:34 PM
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Heat issues.

Giday db man.
Thanks for that. So there is not enough rising heat to cause a problem. The painted blue pipes is a K&H Hi temp exhaust. Others i have tested flaked off within hours. I tested this one on two cast iron manifolds on our toyota here which has been on for a while now. I was going to have them electro-plated until i got the quote. Worth more than the extractors. The engine has about 2 hours on it now without a blister . See what happens when it is on the road and given some work.
Thanks once again
Cheers from downunda.
Al.
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Old 11-30-2010, 05:31 AM
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Tell yer mates we are all waiting for a new Mad Max Movie
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Old 11-30-2010, 05:59 AM
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Mad Max 4

Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
Tell yer mates we are all waiting for a new Mad Max Movie
Yeah they were great movies. My kids have seen them several times over.
That supercharged ford XB/C coupe started a rush . Anyone who had a shell in their back yard has made big bucks. i heard a lot went to the states. Maybe there is one or two in Georgia. ( A bit like Steve McQueen and Eleanor without the desert)
If Mel Gibson stops chasing Russian women long enough to have a beer and a shrimp on the b b q he may come up with Mad Max 4 from downunda

Cheers
Al

Last edited by 67Mustang Al.; 11-30-2010 at 06:02 AM. Reason: yep
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Old 11-30-2010, 07:34 AM
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Maybe Russel Crow would be interested?
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