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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2013, 11:09 AM
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I couldn't remember where I heard that, but after a bit of snooping found these tidbits:

From Eaton's PDF:

Quote:
Circle Track Racing Applications
Ford 9 CTR only 1.32 31 All exc. 2.72 R18703A
Ford 9 2.00 Large Bearing 1.32 31 All R18715A (was R18707A)
Quick Change
(Franklin, Halibrand, Richmond, Winters, etc.)
CTR only 1.32 31 All R18705A (aluminum housing)
The Detroit Locker CTR (Circle Track Racing) version of the Detroit Locker is made exclusively for left hand turn racing only. Designed for use of asphalt or concrete tracks being mile or larger.
Posts #6 & #9 here.

From Complete Offroad...

Another old link.

Most links are so old that embedded links are dead, not enough info within to come to a conclusion...

Russ

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2013, 02:08 PM
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The CTR locker has the left side axle splined to the case by the use of a spacer instead of a spring, so it will not ratchet. They are a little cheaper than the regular locker and are generally what I sell the circle racers, especially the quick change version. I think they both can be converted to regular lockers if the correct parts are swapped out.
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:57 AM
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The other day I did a quick mock up of my Lock Rite with some axles, some pics show the wear I am talking about.

Box


Inside box




Gear side up








Setup on the aligment rack at my house


Locked


Locked


Unlocked





Gap where you slip in the c-clip


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Old 08-04-2013, 08:58 AM
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Close up of "dog gears"


teeth


No flash





Look at the center tooth here, its got a nice chunk out of it.





SHear pin installed, there are 4 that hold both driving sides of te dog gears together



4 dog gears with single shearpin just under them


Shear pin and spring




And here is the upgraded No SLip Traction System, it is supposed to be less harsh than the "Lock Rite.



Suggestions, if you go with a Lockrite or No Slip System:,
1)dont buy a used unit.
2) Ensure that the cross shaft is blemish free, buy a new cross shaft
3() If there is too much play, buy a new cross shaft and or new open carrier. You can get brand new carriers for $80.


Also, keep in mind that these Richmond(Powertrax) products are NOT recommended for taller tires. The Eaton Truetrac, Eaton Detroit Locker,Easton Clutch LSD, and Eaton E-Locker are NOT designed I repeat NOT designed for taller than stock tires. Eaton and Richmond clearly state this fact on their literature.

peace
Hog

Last edited by Hogg; 08-04-2013 at 09:21 AM.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2013, 11:30 AM
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Suggestions, if you go with a Lockrite or No Slip System:,
1)dont buy a used unit.
2) Ensure that the cross shaft is blemish free, buy a new cross shaft
3() If there is too much play, buy a new cross shaft and or new open carrier. You can get brand new carriers for $80.


Also, keep in mind that these Richmond(Powertrax) products are NOT recommended for taller tires. The Eaton Truetrac, Eaton Detroit Locker,Easton Clutch LSD, and Eaton E-Locker are NOT designed I repeat NOT designed for taller than stock tires. Eaton and Richmond clearly state this fact on their literature.

peace
Hog



ok, what harm could running s 28" tire over a 26.7" tire.
and the units are listed for apps that stock go from 25-29" tall tires.

are you sure they don't mean taller tires like 33 mudders/etc
it seem to me the more traction at the road would be the issue.
I'd guess that the taller the tire the quicker it unlock, and the straighter the car would have to be going for it to lock..
I'd love to know what they call taller tires..
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Old 08-04-2013, 12:51 PM
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I've been running 30 inch mud tires on my V6 5 speed 4X4 S10 for 16 years on a Lock Right and put over 140,000 miles on it with no problems.

Last edited by Crosley; 08-04-2013 at 04:31 PM. Reason: member request
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2013, 12:53 PM
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just an observation here: the lock-rite unit looks like the design will eat it's self up with the teeth jumping over each other in daily use.

I've never used one, just an observation of the design
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2013, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crosley View Post
just an observation here: the lock-rite unit looks like the design will eat it's self up with the teeth jumping over each other in daily use.

I've never used one, just an observation of the design
I'd think and hogg has one to look at, there is a spring in there to keep them away from the teeth when unlocked, doubt they are allowed to just bang around in there
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2013, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crosley View Post
just an observation here: the lock-rite unit looks like the design will eat it's self up with the teeth jumping over each other in daily use.

I've never used one, just an observation of the design
The design does look questionable don't it. And the height of the teeth always had me.. There's not that much material on the teeth engaging the whole thing. But they work and work really well especially in the jeeps and Toyota's.

I have units that have held up for years in pretty harsh conditions even with some big tire. Sometimes they'll shear a pin but spend $20 and put new springs and pins and its good to go.

I've only had 2 units come back broke and I've installed a bunch 1 was in a chevy 10.5 diff and the other was in my sons Tacoma. Of course my son says he was just driving around and it broke but we all know that story all to well.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2013, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gearheadslife View Post
I'd think and hogg has one to look at, there is a spring in there to keep them away from the teeth when unlocked, doubt they are allowed to just bang around in there
Yes it does push it away when disengaged.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 08-05-2013, 09:02 AM
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When under power, the cross-shaft is actually wedging the two halves into their respective side gears, forcing tooth contact. The more power applied, the greater the wedging force. So the teeth prolly won't wear much under load, as unlocking mostly occurs in a coast situation...

Russ
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Old 08-05-2013, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gearheadslife View Post
Suggestions, if you go with a Lockrite or No Slip System:,
1)dont buy a used unit.
2) Ensure that the cross shaft is blemish free, buy a new cross shaft
3() If there is too much play, buy a new cross shaft and or new open carrier. You can get brand new carriers for $80.


Also, keep in mind that these Richmond(Powertrax) products are NOT recommended for taller tires. The Eaton Truetrac, Eaton Detroit Locker,Easton Clutch LSD, and Eaton E-Locker are NOT designed I repeat NOT designed for taller than stock tires. Eaton and Richmond clearly state this fact on their literature.

peace
Hog



ok, what harm could running s 28" tire over a 26.7" tire.
and the units are listed for apps that stock go from 25-29" tall tires.

are you sure they don't mean taller tires like 33 mudders/etc
it seem to me the more traction at the road would be the issue.
I'd guess that the taller the tire the quicker it unlock, and the straighter the car would have to be going for it to lock..
I'd love to know what they call taller tires..
Taller tires, meaning taller than typically came/come on OEM setups. Since the material I am referencing was originally printed in the 90's a 33" tall mud tire would be classified as "taller", as would a 315/70/15 BFG Sport Truck T/A, which is a tire that is equivalent to a 33" tire..

The taller the tire, the more force to takes to rotate that tire. Also lockers require that the tires be of equal height, or obviously the rear would be in a constant bind.

peace
Hog
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 08-05-2013, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crosley View Post
just an observation here: the lock-rite unit looks like the design will eat it's self up with the teeth jumping over each other in daily use.

I've never used one, just an observation of the design
That is a correct obsevation, and that is what I heard while taking gentle curves. That sound in iteslf was concening, it was the banging sounds.
There are no springs that push the couplers apart, but the cross pin does help to push the couplers together under acceleration. This can be a problem because the couplers are also pushed together under deceleration.

I have the Installation manual and the Owners Manual in front of me, and they do recommend that when turning a corner to try and keep a neutral throttle, and not to completly let off the throttle.
"Cornering-When turning your vehicle, try to do so under slightly positive throttle. If turning is done with a neutral throttle, in may tend to buck because of te interation between teh free diveshaft rotation and the ngine rpm change due to a varying load. During normal tuurning movements on teh street, you will notice that your new Lock-Right operates easily.

And to prove that these teeth actually pass over each other, the owners manual talks about the noise and where it originates from.
"A) CLICK- The LOCK-RIGHT realeases the outside wheel in a turn. This means that its coupler (or side gear) rotates faster than its driver so that the teeth passing by each other produce a "click-click-click) that can be sometimes be heard during turning. Cold weather and/or thicker oil will decerease the sound. This click is completely normal and lets you know that everything is functioning properly.

B) CHIRP-they then decsribe that if you hit the gas hard during corneuing, the unit will LOCK and cause the tire to momentaily lose traction and the CHIRP is heard.

C)CLUNK- The LOCK-RIGHT has about 25 of free driveshaft rotation built into it so it can operate proerly.This backlash may produce a CLUNK in teh driveline when getting in and off the gas. that isperfectly normal. This noise is more prevakent in vehcikes equipped with a manula shift transmission, but the operator should be aware that it exists."

Then on the last page under the warranty section"

"We carefully designed to the LOCK-Right to minimize forces within the dif. case. However tire sizes/horsepower increases should be taken into account because the vehicl;es manufacturer differntial may have some limitations. Remember: our warranty does not cover parts that are not supplied by use and in no situation does it cover abuse caused by larger diameter tires or increased horsepower engines"

I had issues with 3 of these LockRight units. I would love to try the newer and more complicated "No Slip Traction System" which is the "Lock-Rights" brother.

If I did, I would be starting with a brand new carrier, brand new cross shaft. Powertrax used to sell a new cross shaft made from "Zytanium". But by then I might as well go with an Eaton clutch LSD or Eaton Truetrac gear unit.

ZYtanium cross shaft $24
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwt-sg1920/overview/

I see that they sell a bunch of replacement parts now for these units

teh Lock-Rite Locker that I have picture in my mockup above is here for $341
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwt-1921-lr/overview/

And the "No Slip Traction System for teh same 30 splie 8.5" SF GM is $487
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pw...3005/overview/

Here is a representative pic of a "Powertrax No SLip Traction System"


And a "Powertrax Lock Rite"


Powertrax No SLip Traction System
These Powertrax no-slip traction systems are the latest design in traction-adding differential technology. They combine the smooth operation of a limited-slip differential with the traction performance of a locking differential. A precise synchronization mechanism eliminates the ratcheting sounds typical of other locking differentials. Special gear and spring designs reduce the backlash and, therefore, the driveline windup. Only ultra-strength material that is 67 percent stronger than titanium is used. Installation is simple because no ring and pinion setup is required. In addition, no special tools or oils are needed. Step-by-step, model-specific instructions are provided with every kit.

Lock Rite Locker
The Powertrax Lock-Right and performance lockers' straight-line performance is equal to a solid spool axle, yet they automatically unlock to allow for full differentiation in turns. The lockers also reduce the excessive noise, tire wear, and drivetrain damage associated with other lockers. Powertrax lockers replace the spider gears in your differential carrier without affecting your ring and pinion settings. The whole job can be done in your driveway with common hand tools in a couple of hours. A carrier is not included.

peace
Hog
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 08-05-2013, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogg View Post
Taller tires, meaning taller than typically came/come on OEM setups. Since the material I am referencing was originally printed in the 90's a 33" tall mud tire would be classified as "taller", as would a 315/70/15 BFG Sport Truck T/A, which is a tire that is equivalent to a 33" tire..

The taller the tire, the more force to takes to rotate that tire. Also lockers require that the tires be of equal height, or obviously the rear would be in a constant bind.

peace
Hog
musta sucked with bias plys and stagger.
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gearheadslife View Post
musta sucked with bias plys and stagger.
Serious?

The BFG Sport Truck T/A was an H rated radial tire. They really filled the wheelwells nicely. I ran them on a stock 15 x8" GM truck ralley rim with a matchings et of 15 x7" ralleye rims on the front. IIRC I ran a 255/60/15 front tire.

I did run a set of BFG Silvertown whitewall Bias ply's on the show 57 Belair and theyw ere horrible. The CCI shows now allow for radial reproduction tires, so I now run Coker witewalls in a stock size. The handling difference is phenomenal. I choose which lane to drive in, instead of the tires lol. In a contruction zone after the have ground the pavement down and it leaves those grooves, driving was VERY dangerous. I had to slow right down.

peace
Hog
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