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Old 10-17-2011, 12:49 PM
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Lokar door handles & Universal Door Latch Cable Release Kit

Looking for a little insight on my dilemma. I've been searching and searching google etc. to try and find some pics on someone installing lokar door handles and the universal door latch cable release kit. I've come up empty handed finding any sites or topics in forums going into details on the install. Ive searched here too and couldn't find anything. Maybe I'm not using a good combination of keywords or something.

Anyways I have these door handles.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-IDH-2001/

And this universal installation kit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-DLR-2100/

Here is my door.

FYI its halfway taped up cause I'm getting ready to layup some fiberglass for a mold of the door skin.



Here is how I'm thinking I can route the cable and pulley.



- Look to the far right and you will see the little black tab I marked on the picture. *Note the red curved line with the arrows. The up position is where it stays when the door is closed or open, it only pulls downward when pulling on the door handle to open the door(obviously lol)

-The pink box is the factory metal rod that attached to the original door handles, handles originally mounted there in the pink box area.

-Area with the two red boxes is where I want to mount my new handles. I will most likely rivet a thin strip of steel across there to screw the handle and its bracket to.

-Green circles are the points where I would mount the pulleys (will have to buy extra pulleys since I only got two in the kit from lokar)

-Orange lines is how I will route the release cable

Shameless plug, but I'm also willing to let these handles go for a nice price. Been looking into maybe using some handles from another car. But I would still need to use some kinda pulley system for the new location I want to mount the handles to.

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Old 10-17-2011, 04:31 PM
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ford pickups use something like what you are trying to do but they do not use all the wheels and cables..they use a cable similar to a motorcycle clutch cable with one end at the handle and the other at the latch..knowing that may make life a bit easier as that is much easier to route and adjust..

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Old 10-17-2011, 06:03 PM
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i recognize the name from fiberglassforums.com
similar to one more time's suggestion; look at bicycle brake/shift cables.
a simple hole in a bracket and a brake lever adjuster will hold the cable sheathing on both ends. run a brake cable thru.
i used this with my shaved doors. i also ran a safety cable thru my door wire loom to unlatch the doors from the outside if i have a failure.
usually a bike store will have all these parts in their spares.
you can buy sheath by the foot, it will snake any where you need it.
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Old 10-17-2011, 08:10 PM
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Sounds good thanks, I'll have to look into it a bit more.

I'm kinda not seeing the vision of it right now, need to take another look inside my doors again.

Cause that black latch(that's marked in the pic) that's inside the door, the only way to open the door when its closed is to some how get that latch to pull straight down.

I figured by using the pulley kit, and placing a pulley directly below the latch it would have no choice but to pull the latch down.

Might post this over on the Fiberglass forums too, some guys that fabricate crazy things over there.
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Old 10-17-2011, 08:29 PM
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I looked at doing a very similar system as you propose. Doing some 'what if's' ... If you let the handle go quickly after opening, like kids might do, one of the cables could pop off the pulley and you are stuck. I looked at closely covering the pulley so the cable could not come out or off but then you get into possibly jamming or wedging the cable, again not good. Deep groove pulleys are another option. bottom line is that taking up any slack is necessary. What every you chose it must work every time no matter what.

I looked at bicycle brake or shift cables. These look very good to me. You will have to anchor them at each end which should not be too hard in this door. I think were I to do this, it is how I would go.

I have the Lokar E-brake cable for my E-brakes and they are very good.

My solution was to weld a nut to the window track and a custom handle. I use rods with 'vette clips. It has been trouble free so far. Something I can't say for the solenoids. I'm very close to removing the solenoids and installing custom exterior handles. I've been locked out 3 times now...once more and I'll lay the car up until I get the handles made and installed. As it is I have to leave a window down far enough to use a cable to snag the interior handle if the solenoid fails.
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Old 10-18-2011, 05:26 AM
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With that big door, I would probably look at making my actuating mechanisms with rods and bell cranks to change directions - and what I did with the skinny doors on my '31 A roadster. If you put little turn buckles along the length of the rods, you can adjust to take out any slack. For the '31, I just used a short piece of keystock drilled for the rods and set screws for adjustment. One works great - the other, just OK and will be fixed this winter
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Old 10-18-2011, 05:49 AM
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I used bicycle shift/brake cables in my 59.

from interior release to the latch
from the door poppers to the latch
and the emergency release cable to the latch.

have all worked just fine for 5 years now.

yep---have to be secured well well on both ends, and if you think your anchor points through carefully, the overall length of the cable will not be that critical.
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:54 PM
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looking at the cable kit, it would be very easy to convert the cables to sheathed cables.
the sheathing eliminates the pulleys and any chance they fall off the pulleys.
i assume you will mount the handle in the door panel and remove it with the panel.
think of the logistics of getting the door panel on while threading the cable thru 3 pulleys

take a good look at any bike brake, they use the cable and sheath in a convoluted path from the caliper to the brake handle.
the cable could follow the same path as you indicated and pull down on your latch.
you just need to lock both ends of the sheath down so it cant move.
easiest way is with the barrel adapter.

it would cost you $5 to see how well it works.
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:59 PM
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lokar gas pedal use the same cable and sheath design.
i have the lokar eliminator pedal in my 58 truk.
i had to pull the pedal to reconfigure it, so i could get wot and proper kickdown on the trans.
i re-used the sheath but had to get a new cable from the bike shop.
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Old 10-18-2011, 02:49 PM
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I was looking into the bike brake cables last night. Also one of the images in that link you posted gave me a better vision/idea on what can be done.

Not sure on the technical term, but say I made something from scratch and bought some cable from an hardware store. The piece that's pressed onto the end of the cable in the black box below, how could I re-create that?



I think I will take a trip to the junkyard tomorrow maybe to see what I can find, maybe looking at various other doors will give me some ideas. Might even be able to use cables from another car I find.
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Old 10-18-2011, 04:20 PM
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Try not to over think this stuff

get a few of those cable clips that you crimp to make eyes on each end of the cable.

Small chain links can be used for attaching the cable to whatever is being actuated.

The links are small and strong-----the crimped cable eyes are plenty strong enough to hold whatever you are moving.

Bicycle cables/sheaths are only about 1/4" thick and easy to hide---very flexible.
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:17 AM
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like he said^^^

the universal cable kit you have has those ends. i would hook this end to the door handle.
the other end of the kit will fasten to your latch.
fab a couple of angle brackets and use the bicycle sheathing the same way on the lokar pedal pic you posted.
but instead of using a $90 lokar cable sheath and ends, use a $5 bicycle cable sheath and the ends i gave you the link for.

the pic you posted above is the bottom end of the lokar eliminator gas pedal.
i had to replace the cable, trust me, it is a bicycle brake cable slipped into that fancy aluminum end.

a hardware store will not have the right cable or sheath.
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Old 10-22-2011, 10:03 PM
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Decided to go with some different handles from another car. I'll be sure to post back with how I rig this up to work. Thanks for the help everyone.
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