SBC hydraulic roller. Valve events at .050 listed on cam card:
IO 8º BTDC
IC 40º ABDC
EO 48º BBDC
EC 0º ATDC
As found:
IO 7º BTDC
IC 46º ABDC
EO 47º BBDC
EC 6º ATDC
Another thing, This is suppose to be a 228/228 duration at .050 cam. It measures 233 on both the intake and exhaust. What is the deal with that?
Specs on cam is 228/228 at .050 280/280 at .006 110LSA 4º advance. install intake lobe to 106º centerline.
7+180+46=233 intake
47+180+6=233 exhaust
Also done the Intake centerline method and got 109º which tells me I need to advance the cam 3º to put it at 106
I am very confident I have found true TDC. I am using a fixture that fits in the lifter bore with indicator that reads directly off the lobe for the degreeing process.
If you were using a roller radius indicator on the flat tappet lobe (or vise versa), you'd see an error, but it would be larger than what you're seeing, and it wouldn't add duration to just the closing side. Even a slightly different radius from the lifter your cam uses would not indicate what you're seeing, so it's not the tooling, per se.
This sounds like a mistake by the manufacturer, or they have pulled a cam off the shelf that's close to what you wanted- but even w/that, it's more cam than you bargained for.
I'd be on the horn to these guys...
BTW, if you use a hydraulic lifter to recheck it you should make it solid to remove the lifter piston travel from skewing the measurements. Stack it full of small washers or fill w/grease.
Your previous measuring set up must not have been parallel to the lifter/pushrod and/or the radius was way off. Still doesn't make much sense that it was off only on the closing sides...
In any event usually the advance will be correct when the cam is installed straight up. Can you show the cam card?
Well, it's that or a bushing in the cam gear. The offset woodruff would be the easier of the two, and could be said to be a better choice because the three bolt holes holding the cam gear on don't need to be elongated.
Two keys? Maybe for a blower hub. He's talking about changing the phasing of the cam. Cutting a new keyway does not need to be done for a simple cam timing change.
(I would run it at 3 and be done with it. Dont want to take any chances with the offset key failing.)
my response was to this post.I doubt a key would fail.Just offering solutions or alternates,trying to not judge. The 1 degree cam phase is a mute point when the timing chain stretches
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