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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2013, 07:12 AM
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Is this a roller block??.
No.It's a 85/86 model.That would be pre-roller days.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2013, 08:03 AM
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Didn't catch that one.Thanks.
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:20 AM
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With so many good heads that are affordable, why use a weak set that need much work to get the 350hp. Vortec are cheap, and are target bolt on heads for 350-375hp. There are others too. Also summit had a great budget AL head . Ebay..etc.

For the 350hp you do NOT need heads that flow 250cfm. It is nice , but not needed.
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:48 AM
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Vortecs are good heads.No doubt.Cheap is questionable.JY heads will need to be magged & most likely need a valve job.Additional work & parts if you wanna use a cam with very much lift to it.Then you have to go get an intake & self aligning rockers.A new set is over $600 + the intake+rockers.If I already had a set that were good,i'd use em,but'befor I would sink $800 to $900 into a set,I'd get an aftermarket aluminum.If the 186's only need a basic valve job,they'll get you to 350.A $1500 budget ain't get ya very far past a basic rebuild.
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:27 AM
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I already have 5.7 rods,.030 pistons and a stock 350 crank. It came with the block.
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Old 10-09-2013, 10:10 AM
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5 years ago when I did the vortec head swap the parts were cheap. Even right now my local recycler has long blocks in a pile , $125 each. There is probably a vortec in the pile somewhere.

My vortec heads were under 200, like $179 for the pair. I got beehive springs( off another yard vehicle) , covers , rockers, pushrods, etc.

I don't want to hear about cracks. I have not had the problems that others had in reguard to cracked vortec heads.

There are 2 roots superchargers on the craiglist right now under a grand. Something to think about if you want to expand the project.
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Old 10-09-2013, 10:12 AM
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Is that a fresh machined block & new pistons?Do you know if the block has been decked,or,not?Be sure to ck the compression hgt on the pistons.Are the pistons true flat top,or,do they have valve reliefs?
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Old 10-09-2013, 11:34 AM
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Trying to remember from days of old what the double hump heads on a 350 was rated at.I do remember a 350 hp 350 direct from the show room floor.If a classic build is what your after,I could find the facts for you.I don't agree with using used Vortec's especially when the ones you can buy new are targeted for 350's in the smaller version with 180cc runners.Still it needs some machine work for the larger lift cams.
That can push the price of new Vortec's to the level of aftermarket as many of us have posted before.I like to push the parts purchases to a level beyond my current expectations for give me head room should at some point want more.And we all know we all at some point always want more.......LOL.
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Old 10-09-2013, 01:21 PM
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You don't have to do anything to them , but use a mild cam like .450 lift, use beehive springs, etc.
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Old 10-09-2013, 01:51 PM
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You don't have to do anything to them , but use a mild cam like .450 lift, use beehive springs, etc.
I would not do this. You need a safety margin of at least 0.060" and this much lift will not give it to you on stock L31 heads. Just because the room is there doesn't mean you can safely use it up. If you don't want to do any machine work to the heads, then limit lift to 0.420" at the valve so you have a safety margin. All cam grinders make cams with 0.420" valve lift.
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Old 10-09-2013, 02:39 PM
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With the spring and small retainer I had past half inch.

I understand what you want to do.

I have done only a couple this way, but safe at .450" for sure.

Typical .450 lift cam with stock 64cc vortec 906 heads (on 8.5:1 76cc block), dual plane, 750cfm, and headers...is near 350hp at the fly.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2013, 03:40 PM
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Is that a fresh machined block & new pistons?Do you know if the block has been decked,or,not?Be sure to ck the compression hgt on the pistons.Are the pistons true flat top,or,do they have valve reliefs?
I going to send the block to the machine shop tomorrow to get deck. The pistons is used pistons. I had the block mic and it was already bored .030 over. This is my first build and I want to do it the right way.
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Old 10-09-2013, 04:01 PM
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That's a good thing.Let them ck the bores for wear,out of round,& taper if the engine has been ran since being bored.I'd take the pistons as well so they can verify your piston to wall clearance.Used parts can look good,but,still be out spec.Actually,if you don't the history of your parts,it would be a good idea to have the crank & rods ckd out as well.That way,you know what you have & you know that it's rite.You won't be 2nd guessing on your build.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2013, 04:35 PM
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Don't worry too much about a cam yet.We got a lot more to figure out befor you can choose that.With your current heads,or,even Vortecs for that matter, & flat top pistons,your CR is gonna be a little hi.Prolly somewhere in the 10:1 range. Are you absolutely sure you have flat tops & not the circular dish stock pistons?Not implying that you don't the difference,but,a lot of ppl do get the 2 confused.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2013, 05:16 PM
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Like Joker said, if your heads only require a basic valve job then use them, your budget doesn't really allow for much more when you factor in quality matching for the short block and then the things everyone overlooks in their "budget" like dist, Carb, plugs and wires, head bolts, gaskets and fluids.....if 1500 is the number, then get a price on your machining for both the short block as well as what's required for the heads. Used pistons scare the bejesus outa me personally, before I did that I would use a basic Summit rebuild kit and get a good prison with proper pin height, and the fact that for just a shade over $200.00 will include bearings and gaskets it just makes sense. Depending on your machining costs and the condition of the heads you may just be able to screw together a solid street motor that won't be full of questionable parts and still maintain your budget.
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