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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2013, 01:38 PM
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I think it has to do with the runner velocity. There is more plenum space and the pump is the same size. You don't have the whole package with increased compression to pull the charge. It affects the way the car drives.

I thought the general thinking was that to go faster you need to up :
the engine displacement
the compression it makes
the boost

With your build you can taylor the powerbands rpm with a cam to an extent. The compression will make the power, the cam has to make use of whats there for a displacement in the normal atmosphere.

Great, up the compression, right. Do to driving load dynamics you cant really run around in a car with 13:1 compression( even with a huge cam). You can however , drive around a car with forced induction making 9 psi. That would make the big power and retain all your drivability. My thoughts anyway.

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2013, 09:18 PM
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Will a 750 double pumper be too much for my engine.
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Old 10-12-2013, 09:56 PM
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750 double pumper is perfect.I use 750s on 283s.
Build a 430 HP 350,then take away the dart shp heads and roller cam,use stock heads and a lousey flat tappet hydraulic cam.That should kill 70-80 horse power.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2013, 07:04 PM
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Double pumper? Really. I don't see a reason why a 750 wouldn't work.

I can respect the modest 350hp goal. I also think this guy got some good advice. Which can be hard to come by. I was trying to get some info on the megasquirt system of a forum. Team integra or whatever. You got numb skulls telling you all kinds of junk, talking up their cars hp output with video game numbers. Some 17 y/o kid telling me to listen to him, cause I don't know. I am a line tech at Acura 12 years now, frustrating. Then you find some older chilled out cat, and he lays it out.

Good luck


I said somewhere you cant drive with 13:1, I was talking non desiel 92 octane highway tax fueled vehicles. No E feul either , just cause. It will disprove point.
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:15 PM
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I was asking bc I bought 3 carbs for $40. The all need rebuilding. I have 2 Holley 750 double pumper carbs and a 750 edelbrock too. I was wondering which is best. I learning on my first build and also still buying stuff. So u saying my car has a 13:1 compression? Ok I just bought a 3970010 sbc block today with .030 bored and has different pistons than the dish I have. Should I use them? I'm kinda lost right now. Some one help. Please.
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:18 PM
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No. Did you calculate you compression ratio? Crankshaft coalition is a good diy data site.

I was clearly babbling. Thanking me only encourages the behavior.

Lost is bad, you got as good a head on your shoulders as anyone. What could possibly go wrong.
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:21 PM
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the 750 model 4779 is a great carb,what numbers are on your carbs?
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:48 PM
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I can see buying the carbs if you need 1,but,spending money for used pistons when you have a tite budget to begin with ??? If this block has been used since the overbore,it too will need to ckd,measured to ensure cylinders are within spec.The used pistons are a big no no.I wouldn't spend anymore on questionable or unusable parts.Any parts for that matter until you have a clear idea of what you want & what you are able & willing to do to reach your goal.IMO'the 1st thing you should do is get the heads,a block to machine shop to ckd & have proper machine work done.THEN pick a clear plan & the appropriate parts within your budget to achieve your goals.
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Old 10-13-2013, 09:10 PM
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I don't know the numbers on my carb. I had my heads machine and my block check. Everything is a good. Now it's putting it to together and trying to reach my 300-350 hp goal. I'm just trying to use what I already have and keep it in my budget to reach the goal. I just want to know what it takes with a stock crank, .030 bored block and pistons,186 heads, dual plane edelbrock intake,268 cam, headers,3 inch exhaust and a 750 double pump carb, with 350 turbo trans and 3.73 gears in the rearend. This is going to be a daily driver but I want some hp out of it too.
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Old 10-13-2013, 09:23 PM
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I hate the flat tappet hydraulic cams,the rest of the parts are ok.Make sure piston to wall is correct.If you are buying a new cam,personally I would buy a solid flat tappet before a hydraulic flat tappet.The prices of both are close(except some cheap old profiles)look at the isky z-25 cam,thats what I like for that type of budget engine
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2013, 09:37 PM
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Takes? it will take up to 450-500hp. Makes? A 268 cam 9.5 compression, performer , 750 carb, headers, puts you around 350 hp.

Used pistons, man that's gotta suck. Times must be tight. I understand dude, march on.

Daily and a solid, a not for me. That's not right. Not daily.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2013, 09:46 PM
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Mark, the Z-25 cam is a tight lash cam,with polys and roller rockers,maybe adjust them once or twice a year.remember when overhead cams were all solid?And;;; the solid cam has very very nice manners at low RPM(just off idle),and it will rev 6500 RPM when you need it.
I built a 350 years ago with GM heads,similar cam,750 double pumper,think I had the Scorpion intake on that engine,hooker headers 1 3/4 primaries. ran high 12.s and it was my daily driver.
I later put a set of Lee Sheppard heads and 850 and bigger cam,,,
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2013, 10:11 PM
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Thanks guys. Yea times is hard and my budget is tight but thanks again. I have a Lil confidence now with my first build. Next time when times are not tight it will be better. I have another car but I would like to drive it a few times out a week.
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2013, 10:14 PM
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Daily and a solid, a not for me. That's not right. Not daily.

How did we all survive before the hyd lifter?

the chrysler slant 6 engine had a solid lifter camshaft on all engines prior to 1973.
Nobody even noticed. These engines were known to run their whole service life on 1 valve lash adjustment.

A radical full race engine won't enjoy the same run time/mileage between valve lash checks but a street/ street strip solid lifter valve train (not full race) will require less frequent valve lash re -setting adjustment than most people change their oil.

Once twice a year is plenty. Maybe a few of the 16 valves may need a slight adjustment touch up at this time.

How often do you change your oil? How often do you change your spark plugs?

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 10-13-2013 at 10:21 PM.
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