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looking for a *************

10K views 18 replies 12 participants last post by  engineczar 
#1 ·
i'm looking 4 a 350 SBC 4 bolt main block, in the Nebraska Iowa Kansas or Colorado area, whats a 4 bolt block worth ? crank is ok but not necessary.











Mustangsaly
 
#4 ·
This 1st build, I would like to be in the 400hp range, and then 2 round it may end up being a 383. or if i can get 2 blocks, i will have a spare or start 2nd motor build after P/Us rolling. maybe vortec heads ect. in my brothers shed of the place he just bought is 4 nice 4bolt main blocks, butt no main caps. and theres a big price to matching new or used main caps to a used block, more of a job than just adding caps and line boring.

Not sure where these motor builds will go, or what direction. plus if i'm gona put good money in other performance parts i want to start with a 4 bolt main block.

Mustangsaly
 
#5 ·
The last stock four-bolt I bought was $75, but that was five years ago. Today, a 400 block will go for about $200, so the 350 block is probably $100-$125, as a guess. They're far more plentiful than the 400.
 
#6 ·
OK , was just curious... I use to make alot of money on the 4-bolt blocks , I wouldnt set the price, theyd offer me 100.00-150.00 for 4-bolt block with caps...Id get em as often as I could & sell em. They just thought they had to have a 4-bolt, but Id always build 2 bolts....never hurt one
 
#7 ·
You really do not "need" a 4 bolt block for a 400hp engine. If and when you decide to step up the power you could always just put splayed caps on and it will be stronger than a factory 4 bolt block anyway. I personally look for 2 bolt main blocks. Splayed caps are not all that expensive.

Since you are building the engine from the bare block why not just build the 383 to beging with? It really isn't going to cost you any more. It will be cheaper in the long run, if you build the 350 and a few months down the road build the 383, you really don't save any money at all.

Royce
 
#8 ·
Stick with a 2 bolt main and a 1 piece rear main seal, they don't leak as much. I have been beating up 2 bolt's for many years and not had a problem that was due to the 2 bolt. In fact the engine I just built for my S-10 is a 2 bolt, and I have a 4 bolt on the engine stand. I used the 2 bolt because it has the 1 piece rear main seal and it is a roller cam block. 2 bolts are much easier to find and they hold up well.

Steve :welcome:
 
#10 ·
eBay scores...

Have you looked at any online auctions? eBay has tons of 4 bolt main caps for those blocks you have sitting around.. around $10 for the caps and $5 for shipping. Yes, you'll probably have to get an align bore, but at least you'll use your 'free blocks.' If you do choose this route, make sure you get the correct timing chain, because the length will be slightly different. If you only taking your blocks (2 or 4 bolt) to the 400hp zone, everything should be fine. Just type [ 350 4 bolt ] and find a good seller.
 
#11 ·
butt no main caps = big deal. and theres a big price to matching new or used main caps to a used block, more of a job than just adding caps and line boring. both machine shops said those used main caps on ebay for about nothing, are worth just that Nothing.

to put used or splayed caps on a block its more of a job than line boring, by the time a machine shop makes a set of caps fit splayed or not, your looking a $700 bill they said putting on 4 bolt splayed main caps on a 2 bolt main block and making them fit it's $600 to $700, line boring is only $160, machine shop said unless it's a special block or a block needed for a restoration thats #s matching, ***** can then for scrap iron. the big deal is making them fit, not line boring, plus theres a chance after all that a timing chain problem . i called 2 different machine shops, same story.

i have a buddy that has been rat holing SBC Blocks to the tune of more than 18 of em, all are good #s 4 bolt main 350s, and all with left hand dip sticks ,and has around a dozen 400 4 bolt mains, plus has 7 or 8 400 2 bolt main blocks, and a dozen or more 396 & 454 BBC Blocks. and heads ect. hes in he office of a salvage yard, butt started collecting when he was out in the yard taking cars apart. he don't want to get rid of any, butt said hes got my back, offered me a 35k mi 400 2bolt main block, if i don't end up with anything else. so i'm looking butt not to worried, Now

you guys that don't believe me, the main cap-less 4 bolt main 350s #3970010 blocks with 010 020 under timing chain, are in north platte Ne. there 4 of em $75ea.... one bare 3970010 01 020 block is only missing front cap plus theres a couple 305s and one 350 4bolt main 3970010 010 020 long block my bros is using.



Mustangsaly
 
#13 ·
main caps are made with the block, every block is different. and it's all about how the cap fits to the block surface, George said prob some welding and grinding on cap to make it fit, then possibly timing chain problems too. George said to fit caps and line bore would be around $700, he said to fit splayed caps to a two bolt block would be around $700 also. http://www.gessford.com/ ask for George toll free 800-829-3448, nice guy that knows his stuff, he will answer all your questions. i thought a set of used or new main caps and line bore. but George at gessfords said it's not that easy, and so did terry at http://fcrperformance.com/ 1-877-215-1800 both guys will take the time to talk to you. splayed caps are not drill , tap and go either.



Mustangsaly
 
#14 ·
I think it will differ from machine shop to machine shop. All the machine shops around here say its no problem to match used caps to a a different used block. He said he does it all the time. Blocks are not casted with the caps. the same procedure a machine shop would do is the same GM did in the factory. They cut the caps, drill and tap the holes and line bore and hone.
 
#15 ·
badazz81z28 said:
the same procedure a machine shop would do is the same GM did in the factory. They cut the caps, drill and tap the holes and line bore and hone.

it's not a bolt on and line bore & go, like you said (cut the caps to fit the block and so the bolt holes line up, i'm sure block casting differ same # or not) isn't there some machine shop owners / machinist's here on the board ? they said it can be done, just at a high price, and then maybe timing chain problems. not worth the chance or money to me. these are not 2nd rate shops.
 
#16 ·
i found this,

http://www.chevelles.com/archive/files/2bolt4.htm


T_: My 4-bolt main block can't be line bored because a spun bearing ate out too much metal on the block side of the main bearings. There's talk of converting 2-bolt mains to 4- bolt mains. Do you have to buy the splayed main caps or can you use 4-bolt main caps from a stock chevy (i.e. the ones from my new boat anchor), and have the holes drilled out.
LR: Check out the possibility of having the block welded and then line-bored.

S_: Small block 400's are easier to convert from 2-bolt to 4-bolt because the caps are the same width. This is not true with the other small blocks. In my opinion, you have three worthwhile options: (1) Convert to splayed 4-bolt caps. Spendy, but the right way to do it, considering the machine work involved. (2) Buy a different 4-bolt block. You can't walk around a junkyard without tripping on them. They are thick on the ground, and cheap. (3) Just use a two-bolt block. Install ARP main studs and don't worry about it. Unless you are going to spin over 6000 rpm or produce more than 350 hp, I'd go with the cheapest alternative.
 
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