Looking for tips and useful info - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2013, 03:01 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Memphis TN
Age: 24
Posts: 35
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Looking for tips and useful info

So just out of curiosity. What are things you guys do that you think/know will help improve the performance of your engine when you are building it. I'm not talking machine work per se but cleaning up your intake runners and port matching etc would be included. Anything at all really would be nice to hear. No matter how small if it helps it helps.

Has anyone ever tried the singh groves?
Somender SINGH: Squish Zone Grooves: 20%+ improved performance of IC Engines -- 3 articles & US Patent

I myself Am going to try my hand at port matching, cleaning the head intake runners, file fitting the piston rings and testing them, cleaning the intake, and attempting to fab a ram air design for my hood. Thought about trying to setup something to control oil temp but that seems way to difficult for me right atm.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2013, 06:39 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 50 Ply wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Pottstown,Pa
Posts: 618
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 28 Times in 27 Posts
Alot has to do with what you are doing with the car the motor is in.
Port matching is helpful but really not necessary if the car is just a streeter/ partime racer.
Using say, Edelbrock aluminum heads with a matching intake is a good start. Having a good ignition like MSD, Mallory or choice of others. Cams are the biggest thing you want to get right. Having the right cam for the motor is critical .
I would really go talk to a local machine shop who builds horsepower motors. It won't cost you anything but time.They will ask you lots of quetions and what you answer will give you ideas of just how you want to go about building this motor.
As far as oil temps go ,there are many oil coolers on the market that are available. You have to be making monster HP to be worried about oil temps.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2013, 07:36 AM
455olds's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Baker City,OR
Posts: 402
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 7
Thanked 51 Times in 49 Posts
I would NOT do what the link you posted shows unless you are working on a $10 lawnmower. What kind of engine and what do you intend to use it for? Rear end gears? Transmission?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2013, 06:02 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Mineral Wells Texas
Posts: 16
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
You can make all the HP in the world but unless you can get it to the road it's useless.You have to look at the hole package not just the engine.A lot of people put all kinds of money in the engines and think they are going to go fast I wish it was that easy.Take a good look at the spark plug wires you want believe how much of a diffidence they can make
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2013, 07:49 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Memphis TN
Age: 24
Posts: 35
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
I was just curious what people do to their engines as their putting it together. Not looking for help with my car atm.

@ Falcon yep! I've been looking at all of that. I've got about 250 lb's taken off my car and 10 lb's lost on myself for a total of 260 :V!

Think of this question similarly to "how would you spend your next day off?"
"How/What do you like doing to your engine when you build it". Just trying to get ideas to throw around with my dad.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2013, 08:45 PM
painted jester's Avatar
TAKE A KID TO A CAR SHOW
 

Last journal entry: My grand Daughter at a car show
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Michigan
Age: 68
Posts: 1,787
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 98
Thanked 265 Times in 217 Posts
The biggest thing is to match parts, Either build it for bottom end power or mid range or high rpm!!! Don't mix a low rpm cam with a high rpm intake Etc, Etc! Same with your drive train! Match your torque convertor to your flash torque, If you don't it will eat up your torque! final Gear ratio and tire diameter can do the same!

The next is to blue print, Stock Or High performance it makes no difference a good blue print build will bring power out of hiding!! If you set one rod bearing at .001 set them all at .001 (or as close as possible) If a manual says rod bearing clearance .0005 to .003 that means .0005 is new engine tolerance and .003 is just at the wore out point and passable! If you get a bearing reading of .0029 across all the rod bearings when assembling you just built an engine on the point of being wore out, same with ring gaps , mains, etc. a good balance helps a lot! Anything that is parasitic that you can reduce the drain of H.P. like a large heavy big pitch fan, water pump, H.P. draining alternator, heavy pulley's, Heavy dope, heavy oil ETC,ETC! Don't install a high pressure oil pump if its not needed the higher the pressure the more engine torque and H.P. it takes to drive it! Too high an ohm plug wire can rob H.P.! There are many things you can do to bring out H.P. and torque! Re curving the distributor, advancing or retarding the cam, lightening the valve train, The right headers, and porting or not porting depending on RPM and scavenging ability ( sometimes small ports perform better then large) in some combinations! Reducing internal friction like oil windage, Crank case ventilation! Etc,Etc, There is much more Like the weight of the car and whether you need high torque to get it moving or high rpm for speed!

Jester
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2013, 01:01 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: upstate New Yorkistan
Age: 28
Posts: 126
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
if the tolerance is at the loose end on one rod bearing clearance and not any others how would you fix that? would need a crank job on all rods right?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2013, 03:03 PM
bigdog7373's Avatar
Of course it's fast
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2010
Location: florida
Posts: 2,673
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 49 Times in 49 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by s-10again! View Post
if the tolerance is at the loose end on one rod bearing clearance and not any others how would you fix that? would need a crank job on all rods right?
Depends if it's the rod or crank causing it. Gotta measure them.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2013, 07:09 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: upstate New Yorkistan
Age: 28
Posts: 126
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdog7373 View Post
Depends if it's the rod or crank causing it. Gotta measure them.
aahhh yes...rod cap studs could be stretched. right right.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2013, 07:34 PM
bigdog7373's Avatar
Of course it's fast
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2010
Location: florida
Posts: 2,673
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 49 Times in 49 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by s-10again! View Post
aahhh yes...rod cap studs could be stretched. right right.
Wouldn't matter. The cap still sits against the rod. Most likely the cranks rod journal is worn. In which case you have to get them all turned down and run a thicker bearing.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2013, 11:43 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 130
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts
I get anal and do that chit looking for a horse here and there.

In addition to the pocket porting and port matching and clearance around the intake valve, some things include:

Carb is milled and blended. Note that the "dead zone" at the interface of the air cleaner base and carb has been filled with a piece of rubber cable and sealed into place to smooth this transition. Also note the "nose cone" at the transition of the screw and post. There is actually a piece of heat shrink tubing that covers the treads from the wing nut (bottom of the air cleaner top) all the way down to the carb completely covering (and blending) the centerpost.



The intake itself has been internally "massaged" to get rid of the casting ridges as well as smooth out the divider and provide a smoother airflow. The 1/2" spacer is ported and blended to the manifold. Even more work was done after the pics were snapped.


When the manifold is installed, I lay it in place and using a stiff wire, I "feel" the transition and shift the manifold around to get this the smoothest. I then use a marker to mark this alignment so that after I do the gaskets and China wall, I can just lay it into the proper place without shifting it around.

I even do things like putting multiple coats of ceramic-bearing paint on the base of the air cleaner to reduce heat transfer.

When my block was prepared, it was actually clearanced for the intake valves. I don't see many do this anymore.

My combination makes ~350 crank hp and I get about 290-300 at the wheels:

331 CI, pump-friendly 9.5:1 CR
K&N 14"x4" air filter, Corvette drop base and lid
Holley 600 dp, choke horn milled and blended, Primary - 69, Secondary – 74, Squirters - 21
1/2" Aluminum open spacer port matched to manifold, exterior polished
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold, port matched, exterior polished with all extraneous castings and lettering removed
Homemade lifter valley splash shield to keep hot oil off manifold bottom
Manifold heat riser crossover blocked
Camel hump 1.94/1.50 heads hogged out to 2.02/1.60, pocket ported, port matched, pump-friendly hardened seats, 3-angle valve job
Cylinder bores clearanced to unshroud the valves
Comp Cams 1.52:1 roller-tip rockers
Crane Cam Vintage Muscle 327/350 hp cam, 222 degrees @ 0.05, 0.447" lift (with 1.50 rockers)
Doug Thorley headers, dechromed and ceramic-coated
2.5" mandral-bent exhaust (including tips), 2" cross-over just before rear axle
DynoMax stainless Ultra Flow mufflers
Millerspeed 1-1/2” Gilmer under drive belt drive system
Mallory Hyfire IV CD ignition box triggered off Accel points
Mallory high voltage chrome coil
Mallory spiral-wound coil wire
Mallory solid copper plug wires, ends soldered to wires
Champion plugs
37 degrees total ignition advance
Carter high volume fuel pump
Melling high volume oil pump
Open breathers
Polished aluminum high flow water pump
160-degree thermostat
Flex fan with polished aluminum spacer
Polished aluminum one-wire 100 amp alternator
Header Power Bracket
Keisler TKO600 5-Speed
Hurst shifter
3.70:1 positraction with Big Block yokes
225/60/15 Firestone Firehawk SZ50s on 7”-wide Western 30-spoke Turbine Wheels

Last edited by toddalin; 02-15-2013 at 11:52 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2013, 01:10 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2009
Location: S/E Michigan
Posts: 653
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts
Make sure your assembly area is spotless.

Wash your components with mild soap and warm water after they come back from the machine shop. Even if the shop did a second cleaning, there will still be pieces of ground iron stuck in block passages and crank oil holes. Blow dry with clean(filtered) air, and wrap componenets in engine bags(heavy duty contractors bags work well) to prevent moist air from causing rust to start on your fresh parts.

Measure everything twice, write it all down in a small note book, not scraps of paper that can get lost just when you need them.

Degree your camshaft, it is a neccesary part of building a high perfromance engine. Theres a reason every professional builder performs this task on every motor they assemble.

Do research on the parts you intend to buy, whether they be new or used. Saving $20 on a Chinese part may bite you in the ***. Buying used parts unseen can be risky, so ask the seller for lots of pictures and as much info as possible.

Theres a lot more, but this will give you a start
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2013, 07:55 PM
Pantaz's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Van Nuys, CA
Posts: 96
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Deburr the block & heads. Use a file/deburring blade/die-grinder on casting-flash and sharp edges. There is often quite a bit of casting flash around oil drain passages.

If you don't have a set of engine cleaning brushes, get some. (About $30-$40.)

After washing the block, I use paper towels and ATF (auto trans fluid) to wipe down the cylinders and bearing journals.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
new video up with body tips/ panel alignment tips/ metal working ideas tech69 Body - Exterior 10 05-29-2012 11:49 PM
400 info, help, tips, mac42 Hotrodding Basics 3 04-24-2012 09:22 PM
welding tips/ mixing featherfill tips tech69 Body - Exterior 1 04-16-2011 02:15 PM
Cam for a 455 olds, tips, or info wanted littlehandegan Engine 7 09-07-2009 07:52 PM
Info or Tips on T-400 Barking the tires when it shifts Mods 1st Lt Dan Transmission - Rearend 3 08-06-2008 08:03 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:04 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.