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looks like a 383

25K views 94 replies 11 participants last post by  vinniekq2 
#1 ·
OK, so without getting my balls busted too bad for being a pain in the rear....
I have a somewhat organized plan on a somewhat limited budget and want opinions, and input....and of course the classic....how much HP.... And yes, as i know I will be told the proof will be in the ET but its still fun to estimate, and make changes where possible.
Stock 4 bolt block
Eagle 383 rotating assembly, pn#B13405E030, (flat top with 5cc 2 valve relief) 758$
Machine work and assembly $740
Dart SHP 200 heads PN# 127322, (these will get ported) 64cc chambers $1000
Lunati 60141 233/241 at 0.050, 504/525 ( or more with 1.6) $345
PP dual plane typhoon intake $200
1" 5/8 long tube headers, 3" to single chamber flowmasters with turndowns, zero bends
Modded HEI
Comp roller rockers either 1.5 or 1.6, $200
Holley 750dp ( I already have)
94 octane fuel always
TH350 rebuilt and shift kit
B&M 3000 stall
9" with 456 gear
31/18.5 Sportman pros
3700# race weight.
Can't think of anything else....HP? Torque?
ET?
 
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#94 · (Edited)
This car club has been in existence since the 1950's.

If it where only one member I wouldn't have passed along the info

I didn't say the motor and blower is done,I said the blower strips where.:nono:

The case for the cranks is illustrated as well by the offering of larger crank snouts by the aftermarket.And where the offerings in the blown LSx engines also are steel cranks for good reasons.And by LPE engines are steel cranks too.And where most of all I have seen the failures first hand.So I am saying your advise on that count is misleading with the potential of damage and a risk factor that is high.You can't site one 400 an expect that to cover all cast cranks.What compounds this all is it seems in every post I have read from you,you have never told anyone not to use marginal parts.Never.Don't expect me to set idly back and not speak out.When I asked you if you have ever own one,you side stepped that question.When I asked you about details about this "tune" you keep bring up,three times you didn't or couldn't give me any details.

Now I didn't even ask you this,but one of reasons why turbos are so popular,is it doesn't take ANY hp to run them and the turbos are tons easier on a engine than any other power adder.And certainly even the smaller blowers do take away hp to drive them.So you never spoke or considered if you have to back away from the advantages of a blower because of pump gas and the substandard bottom end and then still try to balance out the losses due to the amount of hp it costs to run the blowers.Sure sounds like a recipe for decorating a engine with minimum results.Sure sounds kwel through.LOL.

Then you didn't that I recall,say anything about blower engines and the required ring gap.

All and all your portrayal of blower engines is that they are cheap and do not have a set of their own requirements to build other than this evasive tune you keep talking about.Really my advise to you as a reader,is much of what you have posted about blowers sure sounds like a article(s) out of a car magazine.Where as the details are conveniently and extra costs left out in order to sell the blowers.Hell through out this thread I don't recall you saying anything about what the turn key costs are.And the worst part is you have Dave so convinced it is so cheap,that taking away money from his 383 is good advise,but you opened a door that would lead to a hard lesson learned when he finds the facts of a turn key cost.

So you can be all excited about how it looks and what it sounds like,yet there are two sides to every story which you haven't covered.

BTW.The ten yrs I have been apart of a forum of one kind or another and served as a Admin on a sizable Chevy forum,I learned when a discussion is reduced to name calling,it is the beginning of the end of the thread.Also the person doing the name calling is so defensive mainly because he has never done what he is suggesting others to do.

So please don't.It never serves anyone.And for the O/P's sake,lets stick to just the opposing opinions.Let's not force this thread to be closed.
 
#93 ·
As for the tuning argument, I agree, that it looks like you attempted to bait fbird into a debate. But as yet again I will attest to not having anywhere near the knowledge or skill level he has, I will refrain from throwing my 2 cents in....I will say that he can be abrasive, and slightly blunt at times, but has always been very helpfull, and knows his ****. And is always willing to share and try and help.
Dave
 
#95 ·
I remember when I was in school,there were two kinds of arguments
Number 1 argument : which one is better Chevy or Ford ( dodge was sometimes mentioned)
Number 2 argument was a sub argument and it wasnt really an argument,at the time it was a fact: The 307 is a complete pile of crap and the 327 was the engine to have at any cost

most of us had 283s and big blocks were crazy expensive and 409s though cool,came in heavy cars and had valve train problems.

now that we are living in technological times,everything is just simple math,and there are still several ways to skin the same cat.
I often tell people when they choose a cam,there are several that are correct.whats correct for you may not be correct for me.
this is why we are here,sure,lets argue,but keep it clear and honest.
Can we do things cheaper? yes,,,but at what cost? If you dont want to balance your engine,then dont.If you dont want to deck/square your engine,then dont.thats almost enough savings to buy a blower.

If I put something in my car,I want to drive it.I dont care if you sit on my fender.I let some people drive my car and I dont want to give special instructions to make it work. I put good quality parts in the car. I do things differently and have decent success.I like to bench race.
lets enjoy this site and have good arguments
 
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