[F-BIRD'88]

If you want it to get up and haul the mail when you rug it, put some friggin gear in that tank.
(just messing with ya)

read this.... when you get done, read it again.
http://www.daytona-sensors.com/tech_tuning.html

[techinspector1]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

If you want it to get up and haul the mail when you rug it, put some friggin gear in that tank.
(just messing with ya)

read this.... when you get done, read it again.
Daytona Sensors LLC - Tech FAQ Engine Tuning

I call BS. While the article covers static compression ratio and fuel octane, spark timing and air-fuel ratio, it does nothing to address dynamic compression ratio. If you were to go solely on the information presented, it would seem not to matter the closing point of the intake valve, so that a cam that closed the intake at 20 degrees ABDC would return the same results as a cam that closed the intake valve at 60 degrees ABDC. Again, I call double BS.

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

You are going on faith based on unsound advise and inaccurate data.

If you are using a 64cc head build it with a dished piston.
If you want a flat top 383 piston use a 70cc head on it.

You do not want to run it right on the edge. Don;t get all nuts on the cr.
An it don't matter what cam you stuff in it.

The trouble is you are only shopping price on the 383 kits.
The flat top piston kit is cheaper for a reason.
Its a bad choice for a 383 with 64cc heads on pump gas.

if you want a 64cc head get the kit with the -12cc dished pistons

tech math and advice is always wrong.

There is no benefit to trying to ride the edge of the compression limit.
Do not get all nuts on compression or try to max it out.
10.5:1 is MORE THAN ENOUGH.

Not to start an interweb pssing contest but that article essentially backs up tech, math is math, and assuming the numbers given are accurate, it shows 10.7 static....the article repeatedly states ABOUT 10.5 as the practical limit, and on 93 as opposed to the readily avail 94 around here. And agreed that it comes down to dcr which at 8.82 isn't extremely aggressive with a good tune and 94. It doesnt seem to take into consideration alum vs iron heads either which seems significant. I would agree at 11+ comp that its diminishing returns.....high risk, little to gain, but at ABOUT 10.7 it doesn't sound like a ragged edge deal.....keep the timing right, run good readily avail fuel, keep it cool, and don't be retarted with it in 35° weather.....or 90°+ I should say for you American lads......

[vinniekq2]

My engine is 10.75:1 and I use the same kind of gas you buy.

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by vinniekq2

My engine is 10.75:1 and I use the same kind of gas you buy.

Which I assume given the nature of your bullet your dcr and tune is what makes that possible. Which is exactly what tech was saying.....agreed....

[vinniekq2]

Im not getting into the arguments,Im stating that I have high compression,I use aluminum heads,I only use a 3.5 gear with a stout solid roller,a 950 holley,6k rev limiter chip,single plane intake,and a lot of things that a lot of people say wont work,,,and the car works! It goes like hell,Im scared of it!

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by vinniekq2

Im not getting into the arguments,Im stating that I have high compression,I use aluminum heads,I only use a 3.5 gear with a stout solid roller,a 950 holley,6k rev limiter chip,single plane intake,and a lot of things that a lot of people say wont work,,,and the car works! It goes like hell,Im scared of it!

Lmao.....its nice when you do what everyone says shouldn't work...and it does....and well! You think your scared of the vette....I'm terrified of actually hitting close to 500hp and trying to use it with the barn door that is my van.....with 165's up front and 18.5's rear with leaf springs.....should be very entertaining.....I suspect I'm going to miss the big stupid slideways fun of my vette.....

[F-BIRD'88]

Does that car really weight that much?

My 70 1/2 Firebird was a piggy.

3860 w 454BBC and driver

3680 w SBC and driver.

[1Gary]

Originally Posted by techinspector1

I call BS. While the article covers static compression ratio and fuel octane, spark timing and air-fuel ratio, it does nothing to address dynamic compression ratio. If you were to go solely on the information presented, it would seem not to matter the closing point of the intake valve, so that a cam that closed the intake at 20 degrees ABDC would return the same results as a cam that closed the intake valve at 60 degrees ABDC. Again, I call double BS.

X2

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

Does that car really weight that much?

My 70 1/2 Firebird was a piggy.

3860 w 454BBC and driver

3680 w SBC and driver.

Previous owner had it on a scale and says #3647, now that was with a huge stereo, 2 15" subs and amps and sht, he said it had some crap in the back as well, so figure maybe #100 less cause I don't have any of that, so maybe #3500, but then stick my giant *** in it and were right at #3800 .......what's the math to get 3800 pounds into the 11's? Guess I can Google that lol....

[vinniekq2]

550 horses would squeak 3800 pounds into the 11s if all things are perfect.I would aim for 580 hp and make sure the driveline is strong.
If you want the cat to be street able and not totally race oriented,I would build a 540-588 will a roller (hydraulic) and use dart 335s as a base to work with. If you want to stay away from rats,then My next choice would be a twin turbo LS-3.
If you dont want efi,then use your gen 1 with a blow through.Turbos have a very "cool factor" to them.If you use a blower,then make sure its fast or people laugh at you.

example here,350 rat rod/dual AFBs on a 671 best time ever 12.01. Good thing its a rat rod

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by vinniekq2

550 horses would squeak 3800 pounds into the 11s if all things are perfect.I would aim for 580 hp and make sure the driveline is strong.
If you want the cat to be street able and not totally race oriented,I would build a 540-588 will a roller (hydraulic) and use dart 335s as a base to work with. If you want to stay away from rats,then My next choice would be a twin turbo LS-3.
If you dont want efi,then use your gen 1 with a blow through.Turbos have a very "cool factor" to them.If you use a blower,then make sure its fast or people laugh at you.

example here,350 rat rod/dual AFBs on a 671 best time ever 12.01. Good thing its a rat rod

Mine's kinda a pro street / rat rod sorta deal if I had to classify it. It will always be a "poser" car due to the nature of pro street but even a 12 anything would be a fun driver and pretty neat for what the truck is.....turbo's and blowers and big inch BBC's won't happen in this one I'm sure...I will likely get it somewhat quick, and finish up some minor details with trim and small sht, drive it for the summer and then pedal it to try and buy an early 80's Z ........

[vinniekq2]

you could build a zingy engine,use 5.57 gears,,top speed at 7100 rpm would be 118 mph/188 KMH
and 3650 RPM=60mph/97kmh

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by vinniekq2

you could build a zingy engine,use 5.57 gears,,top speed at 7100 rpm would be 118 mph/188 KMH
and 3650 RPM=60mph/97kmh

Yah, that's a little exsessive lol...the highway drive would drive me mental.

[F-BIRD'88]

520 to 540 BHP dyno horsepower for 116 MPH and a 11sec ET.

But you must gear it to leave the line hard and use all the power of the engine.
(Get past peak HP rpm thru the traps.)
You must leave the line hard to get the ET. (gears .converter)

Such and engine when geared correctly will be quite happy cruising at 100 KPH at 3300-3500rpm.
Ditch the flowmasters.

I can get you a 11 sec ET with less than 520HP real dyno HP , but you must leave the line HARD.
( gears/converter/launch) plan on gearing it to run some 12-15% RPM beyond peak power RPM point, thru the traps
trap at 7000 rpm +
and launch at or slightly higher than the peak engine torque rpm (Race converter)

Not going to happen with 4.56's and a 3000 stall, using a Naturally aspirated 383 SBC

This is all based on 3800 lbs (car and driver) 383cid N/A motor and your 31" tall Sportsman Pro's
And a optimistic but realistic chassis efficently quotient factor applied to your car. (tuning the ladder bars etc to get it to work)
"Making it Hook"

Yah, that's a little exsessive lol...the highway drive would drive me mental.

Thats not true, Unless you re already unstable
As I said the engine will be quite Happy cruising at that rpm. @100 KPH
With correct timing ( vacuum advance) and jetting at cruise it will be fairly decent on gas too.
Of course as soon as you get your foot in it it is going to make power and consume fuel to do that.

As far as keeping you sane, start by ditiching the Flowmaster mufflers and make the exhaust exit at the rear bumper.

Note: a race converter is much more efficient and "streetable" when the car is geared agressively-correctly.
very little slip at cruise- will not run hot etc.

Under gear it and the car will be a dog and the of course the high styall converter will tend to run hot.