[F-BIRD'88]

If you want a 11 second street car that cruises at 3000rpm (4.56 gears 3000 stall and 31" pros)
build a budget oval port 10:1 468 to 496 cid BBC (a real deal 550HP and a ton of torque) ( its relatively mild)
based on a 3950lbs weight (your car with a BBC added , with driver)

[F-BIRD'88]

Another really good alternative is a simple cost effective street supercharged 355 SBC.

3800lbs 550hp on pump gas, 7psi 4.56 3000 stall 31" pros 11.70@117.

It will run a bit faster on 110+ octane race gas and 10-11psi boost.

It is really hard to beat supercharged power on the street.

strip only, use this Drag slick with the 4.56's 11.50 ET's
M/T #3055W 28.0/10.5-15W 11"'s of sticky rubber 10" wide rim with correct offset.

[F-BIRD'88]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

520 to 540 BHP dyno horsepower for 116 MPH and a 11sec ET.

But you must gear it to leave the line hard and use all the power of the engine.
(Get past peak HP rpm thru the traps.)
You must leave the line hard to get the ET. (gears .converter)

Such and engine when geared correctly will be quite happy cruising at 100 KPH at 3300-3500rpm.
Ditch the flowmasters.

I can get you a 11 sec ET with less than 520HP real dyno HP , but you must leave the line HARD.
( gears/converter/launch) plan on gearing it to run some 12-15% RPM beyond peak power RPM point, thru the traps
trap at 7000 rpm +
and launch at or slightly higher than the peak engine torque rpm (Race converter)

Not going to happen with 4.56's and a 3000 stall, using a Naturally aspirated 383 SBC

This is all based on 3800 lbs (car and driver) 383cid N/A motor and your 31" tall Sportsman Pro's
And a optimistic but realistic chassis efficently quotient factor applied to your car. (tuning the ladder bars etc to get it to work)
"Making it Hook"

Yah, that's a little exsessive lol...the highway drive would drive me mental.

Thats not true, Unless you re already unstable
As I said the engine will be quite Happy cruising at that rpm. @100 KPH
With correct timing ( vacuum advance) and jetting at cruise it will be fairly decent on gas too.
Of course as soon as you get your foot in it it is going to make power and consume fuel to do that.

As far as keeping you sane, start by ditiching the Flowmaster mufflers and make the exhaust exit at the rear bumper.

Note: a race converter is much more efficient and "streetable" when the car is geared agressively-correctly.
very little slip at cruise- will not run hot etc.

Under gear it and the car will be a dog and the of course the high styall converter will tend to run hot.

With what you got planed, a 5.13 would be my choice for this car.

[F-BIRD'88]

What is the true on the car Loaded effective diameter of your 31" tall tires.???

measured loaded radius x 2 measured from the ground to the axle center.

What is the true vehicle+ driver weight. take it and scale it, with your fat *** in the seat.

local scrap dealer, junk yard, truck yard, hiway truck scale.

your planed 383 engine combo so far will make an honest 440 to 460hp on a real engine dyno.
Its a good runner for sure but not 500hp.

If you want it dynoed,bring it down here and we can get it dynoed. (engine dyno, chassis dyno or both, your choice)
you just have to pay the dyno session bill.

[F-BIRD'88]

The street blown 550++hp 355 is based on a very simple 8:1 cr 355 with a Weiand 177 Blower.
Its very simple easy to build, cost effective and reliable. 92+ octane gas.
It cruises at 3000 rpm effortlessly. and the torque and acceleration is indescribable.

[496CHEVY3100]

I must have missed it ,your time et what body are you using,in a vega or nova would work good with good single plane not dual better headers, --31"tires ? Just my opinion

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100

I must have missed it ,your time et what body are you using,in a vega or nova would work good with good single plane not dual better headers, --31"tires ? Just my opinion

I'm using a whale.....1940 chev panel van, nova front clip and backhalved.....

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

520 to 540 BHP dyno horsepower for 116 MPH and a 11sec ET.

But you must gear it to leave the line hard and use all the power of the engine.
(Get past peak HP rpm thru the traps.)
You must leave the line hard to get the ET. (gears .converter)

Such and engine when geared correctly will be quite happy cruising at 100 KPH at 3300-3500rpm.
Ditch the flowmasters.

I can get you a 11 sec ET with less than 520HP real dyno HP , but you must leave the line HARD.
( gears/converter/launch) plan on gearing it to run some 12-15% RPM beyond peak power RPM point, thru the traps
trap at 7000 rpm +
and launch at or slightly higher than the peak engine torque rpm (Race converter)

Not going to happen with 4.56's and a 3000 stall, using a Naturally aspirated 383 SBC

This is all based on 3800 lbs (car and driver) 383cid N/A motor and your 31" tall Sportsman Pro's
And a optimistic but realistic chassis efficently quotient factor applied to your car. (tuning the ladder bars etc to get it to work)
"Making it Hook"

Yah, that's a little exsessive lol...the highway drive would drive me mental.

Thats not true, Unless you re already unstable
As I said the engine will be quite Happy cruising at that rpm. @100 KPH
With correct timing ( vacuum advance) and jetting at cruise it will be fairly decent on gas too.
Of course as soon as you get your foot in it it is going to make power and consume fuel to do that.

As far as keeping you sane, start by ditiching the Flowmaster mufflers and make the exhaust exit at the rear bumper.

Note: a race converter is much more efficient and "streetable" when the car is geared agressively-correctly.
very little slip at cruise- will not run hot etc.

Under gear it and the car will be a dog and the of course the high styall converter will tend to run hot.

This is a ton of info to process lol, and I appreciate it....as were buried in snow I'm headed out to snowblow and ponder lol.....will be back this eve....

[496CHEVY3100]

Byady sounds great love to see it ,i am running a bbc in 53 chevy pu just north of 500 hp 3100 lbs we only have 1000 ft track so i dont know 1/4 mile times ,just installed aluminum heads lighter wt more comp try to get times when i get it back togetfer, After paint.

[prostreet6t9]

Maybe since your a little heavy a small shot of juice is in order?

[496CHEVY3100]

NOS is not avalible for tri power as in picture really have more power than i can hook at this time any way ,only full throttle one time since not broken in yet 1 hr run time,1st gear usless 2nd gear 1/2 track tires still smoking had to back off

[prostreet6t9]

Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100

NOS is not avalible for tri power as in picture really have more power than i can hook at this time any way ,only full throttle one time since not broken in yet 1 hr run time,1st gear usless 2nd gear 1/2 track tires still smoking had to back off

You must have the same track prep people we have here. If I go to a test and tune day the track prep is terrible and my fatties wont hook either.

Go to a bigger event and the track is usually prepped better.

[496CHEVY3100]

Acually this started as a Daily driver had a 305 with 700r od 331 gears ,then i built thus engine a new crate motor 030 over bore .250 over stroke aka 496 ,put comp cam 280,roller rockerss and comp roller chain and push rods .then trick flow alum heads 225/188 -113cc saved 70 lbs alum water pump no hp gain but 19 lbs off the front alum intake with tripowerr 3 holley 500s msd ignition & dist sanderson 3 " headers flattop kb pistons so the 500 est is conservative ,now my son is doing a frame off paint job changing to porsche guards red he is doing it for advertising, his body & restoration shop so price is right ,Probably will see limited use now ,i will be installing 4 link adjustable when i get it back

[BuzzLOL]

.. If you were closer to Detroit, I would suggest the Swap Meet at Gibralter North hall which is usually the first weekend of January. I've picked up some screaming bargains there. Like a new pair of Motown 220 aluminum heads for $500. Up in Saginaw, Mich. swap, a new pair of LT4 heads for $85... Seems amazing for a 210/229 cam. If you had a receipt verifying the price, not sure how much customs would be on something like that. I stopped going snow skiing in Canada when a passport was required.

.. Friend of mine runs mid 11's first time with stock SBC LS7 flywheel dyno 530HP in late 1980's Monte Carlo. (video available)

.. If you're considering an Eagle cast crank, you may want to go Scat cast. A quick search of the 'net will get you endless stories of Eagle cast cranks breaking. Forged cranks are a different story.

.. Who's porting the heads and how much porting? That can make an enormous difference in power estimates. Since you're talking a tight budget, I'm assuming maybe just a little cleanup and pocket porting?

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

Another really good alternative is a simple cost effective street supercharged 355 SBC.

3800lbs 550hp on pump gas, 7psi 4.56 3000 stall 31" pros 11.70@117.

It will run a bit faster on 110+ octane race gas and 10-11psi boost.

It is really hard to beat supercharged power on the street.

strip only, use this Drag slick with the 4.56's 11.50 ET's
M/T #3055W 28.0/10.5-15W 11"'s of sticky rubber 10" wide rim with correct offset.

And then the little voice in my head hears all of this and starts talking back lol...I'm looking at 1200 for heads, 200 for an intake, 300 for solid cam and lifters....750 for 383 rotating assembly, 700 in machining and assembly.....so....what we have here is app3200$.....or........450 for summit rebuild kit with forged slugs, the same 700 machine and assembly, keep my 906 heads and port them, use the thmper cam I already own, use the springs, guide plates and screw in studs I already own, use my 750dp I already own....and add 2300 for the weiand supercharger.......so....3400$ and I'm blown....likely more reliable then a high strung high compr 383.....and can likely make more power on any given day.....