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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
There is no reason you cannot get many summers out of this motor.
You have to get real, real agressive on boost (blower drive ratio) (and tune it wrong) to get into trouble.
Most people settle on about a 2:1 drive ratio for this blower, on the street on 92 octane, 8.5:1 with some retard and enjoy years and years of trouble free supercharged power All on a stock short block.

like I said I'd rather see you spend the money to get the spark retard box than forged pistons, etc etc.
(reasonable, streetable boost)
And I suspect the torque at even 5-7 psi is going to make me happy enough to not get greedy anytime soon....so....in theory, a new hei, the msd timing retard from eBay, port the heads, reinstall with arp head bolts, learn how to boost reference my 750, install my converter, buy and install gear and drive it.....if it breaks, then fix it....

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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
A Whipple supercharger is a more efficient supercharger but is double the cost to manufacture and buy.
Yah....that's not gonna happen, what's the diff between a 144 and 177? Price wise they seem almost the same?
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Yup,,,, more than happy. Just remember, when you get temped to try the higher boost pulley set (2.33:1), and you will, run it on 110 octane gas. Or pre order and new set of pistons LOL.

If you are going to wimp out and not get the crane F278-2 cam and the cam that is in it is totally unsuitable as a blower cam, get the Summit K1105 cam set.
It works great for $99 in a blower motor.
Lol....have to see how hard an "in car" cam swap is going to be....and go from there.....
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 10:29 PM
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Any blown 177 applications for 87 octane with decent output numbers on a 350 or 383??.
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  #80 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 10:46 PM
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At what point are you when you need to buy blower pistons with a lower top ring??.
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 10:49 PM
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We have seen and built some 87 N/A 9.0 SCR/8.5 DCR performance engines.I just thought there might be a version of that for a blower engine.
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2012, 11:14 PM
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The top ring question was/is a honest question.There are piston manufactures that build blower pistons with a lower top ring land to avoid heat.I just don't know when that is needed.Not a blower guy.
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Old 12-28-2012, 12:03 AM
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Whats the fixation on ARP head bolts?
Honestly? No idea.....just what I have always been told to use for ultimate strength....
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2012, 12:40 AM
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Well isn't a ratio of lbs of boost vs DCR??. Where is the cam timing events start causing limited returns on a supercharged engine??.
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2012, 12:47 AM
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Hey,wait a minute.You said a 177 doesn't require vane service,But you said it is a roots style blower.I thought all roots have Teflon strips.Kind of confused on that point.
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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2012, 01:22 AM
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So a 177 once the vanes/case are worn is a throw away??.
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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2012, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
Honestly? No idea.....just what I have always been told to use for ultimate strength....
Nothing wrong w/them. But there's usually nothing wrong w/the original bolts. Don't forget the sealer.
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Old 12-28-2012, 01:59 AM
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Nothing wrong w/them. But there's usually nothing wrong w/the original bolts. Don't forget the sealer.
Absolutely!
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2012, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Keep dirt and your fingers and tools out of the blower and this will not happen. The rotors never touch the case under normal use.
its is possible to strip the 177 rotors, but you don;t need to.

The bearings and seals and drive nose is serviceable. When it does eventually need servicing its not complicated or expesnsive.
There are many many good blower rebuild service shops that do these rebuilds. Including Holleys factory shop, Dyers, BDS etc etc. This blower normally out lasts the owner.
Well F-Bird,I have been close to a fairly large car club president here.We both have been at a number of cruise nights and car shows over the yrs.You know how we set on lawn chairs and bench race and talk about their cars.

Some have had blowers on their cars for as long as I have known them and there are some new guys that have them for going on their second season.
These are guys that I in person have stood in front of the blown cars and in person talked to them about them.Count on the being "Real Street" info.

Me if I count my very early yrs,given being 65,have been around hot rods for lets say 50 yrs.Watch it grow and evolve.

I am kind of insulted by the sarcastic comment about"leaving my fingers,tools,and dirt" out of a blower.

I am always a cost benefit kind of logical guy.As always like in everything else,if it sounds too true,it is likely not.

The guys I know with blowers using the best blower services out there(not a shadetree operation),have told me at best they get a season,maybe a season and a haft before the blowers need service and many need new Teflon strips.And yes three have 177's that told me that.So the idea of one out lasting it'd owner is just not the case.

One of the most critical relationships is certainly to know as a fact the amount of boost vs CFM in terms of heads intake runner cc's,camming, and carb size.It is a fact that blower motors MUST run a enriched a/f mixture so as to cover the top end to avoid a lean condition on the top end.That is also true using the best ignition timing devises out there to retard the timing at the top end.A carb's ability to change it's fuel delivery at idle vs secondary top end a/f just because it is mounted on blower,just doesn't happen.It is because of that fact we have seen the development of fuel injection systems for street blower motors where the fuel curves are easier to manage.

The combination of a fat bottom end mixtures and a retarded top end results in a heavier use of spark plugs.When you are not at WOT all the time the fatter mixture fouls plugs.And miss fires is the worst case for any blower motor.

Where there is heat there is power to be harvested,but there is a great amount of carbon build up in the oil. That is why turbo motors must have more frequent oil changes and the same holds true with blower motors.

The blower guys have told me you have to play a balancing act with trying to get rid of the effects of blower vs the loss of power.

I do remember many saying yrs ago,they wish someone would come up with a clutch system for the underdrive that they could program on the fly.I don't know if someone has that now,but sure sounding like a slick system idea.

Everyone has told me NO external balance cast crankshafts for any kind of blower use.The stress levels are just too great for number 2 main journal.

I am going to leave it here.Bottom line.As it is with anything in hot rodding there isn't any "free rides",there are trade offs.

Last edited by 1Gary; 12-28-2012 at 10:21 AM.
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2012, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
What is the true on the car Loaded effective diameter of your 31" tall tires.???

measured loaded radius x 2 measured from the ground to the axle center.

What is the true vehicle+ driver weight. take it and scale it, with your fat *** in the seat.

local scrap dealer, junk yard, truck yard, hiway truck scale.

your planed 383 engine combo so far will make an honest 440 to 460hp on a real engine dyno.
Its a good runner for sure but not 500hp.

If you want it dynoed,bring it down here and we can get it dynoed. (engine dyno, chassis dyno or both, your choice)
you just have to pay the dyno session bill.
FWIW, the loaded CIRCUMFERENCE is what you're really after.
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