It looks like someone sprinkled sand in my paint job! - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2013, 01:23 PM
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Glad your figuring it out!

Don't forget the tack rags also and get the good ones, not an area too try and save a buck.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2013, 06:47 PM
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Silicon carbide sandpaper and contaminated air?

I had to make that last post in a hurry and get to work. Now that the paint has dried more and I have more time to look at it, this last test is a 100% improvement over the previous panels. I still have very tiny craters in the paint, but not the sand sprinkled in the paint look. The elimination of the paper towels and the addition of the tack rag made a big difference.

When I wet sanded the panel down, I went over it 6 or 8 times, and when I rinsed I watched the water sheet off to look for any signs of contamination and did not see any. If the paper towels can cause problems on the surface of the car its a safe bet I should not be wiping out the inside of my mixing cup with them. That may be where these last small craters came from.

Some of the sandpaper I used in the past is made by 3M and said 400 grit silicon carbide on the back. Is there any chance this sandpaper could cause silicone contamination?

Is there any good way to check for contamination coming out of the end of your air hose? I took a white sock and blew air threw it for about a minute and did not see any oil or water so I figured I'm good. Is that the case or is there something else I can do? Thanks
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2013, 06:05 AM
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Sounds like you got the sandy problem figured out ,Now you have a fisheye problem (the craters).most times it will be coming from the compressor or a contaminated surface,or both ....Filters will solve the compressor trouble and the W&G applied properly will solve the other...You should be good to go..
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:58 PM
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Professional grade wiping cloths made a difference

I went down to the body shop supply store today, and I brought one of the last panels with me that I had painted. They put the panel under a scope and said my problem was tiny bits of trash in the paint and not fish eyes. I did get the professional re-finish towels while I was there and did another test trim panel and it did come out better than the previous panel, but it still had some specs in it. The supply store seamed to think the tiny bits of trash could be buffed out. I tried that on a previous panel by wet block sanding with 2000 grit, used a liquid compound and then a liquid polishing compound working it with foam pads. I got the paint smooth and grit free but could never get the original super shine the paint originally had, back. It was more like a satin finish. Did use the appropriate pad for the compounds.

Is it possible to buff a single stage white paint to a supper shine? (Wax in 90 days might help)

The advise they gave me to cut back on the trash in the paint was to:
1. Use the better grade of towels. (Less lint)
2. Cut my gun pressure back from 40 pounds to 30 pounds. (Stirs up less dust)
3. Go over the whole car with a tack rag, and then go over each section right before spraying.
4. Use rubbing alcohol over the panels which is supposed to cut back on static electricity.
5. Wet the floor down right before the spraying starts but don't put so much water on the floor that it puddles. (I had wet it before but let it dry before painting)
6. Re-examine my intake and exhaust fans to be sure they are not contributing to the problem. Thanks so much for all the help.
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Old 04-02-2013, 04:47 AM
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Glad to hear that your getting the problems resolved and honestly the problems your having now can be minimized much easier than if the problem was fish eye related. You can chase a fish eye problem for a long time before it's resolves, there are that many causes.

To answer your question about polishing single stage paint and getting that high gloss finish, the answer is yes. You mentioned that you used the proper pads and compounds, can you post what brand of compound, polishes and pads with part numbers that you used and what type of polisher are you using? If you cut the paint with 2000 wet, you should almost be able to hand polish it and get a high gloss finish.

I'm a little concerned about #4 in the remedy recommended by your paint retailer, rubbing alcohol has properties in it that I'm not sure are good for paint related products. If anyone else has used this with success, please chime in as I've never heard of it being a viable solution for minimizing a dirt related problem.

Ray
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:29 AM
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You are straining the paint into your gun, right? I never did see this addressed in the above posts...

Russ
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:06 PM
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Found a lump of dried primer in the spray gun

Yes, I have been straining the paint. I even checked the strainers after the fact and found nothing in them.

I have been using 3M perfect-it rubbing compound part number 05973 and foam polishing pad glaze part number 05996 with the pads 3M recomends. I do get some shine but not as good as the original paint.

In investigating the problem I have found a new fly in the ointment that may be the cause of the very fine specs I have been finding in the paint. I clean my spray gun each time I use it, but this time I dismantled the gun and examinined the inner cavity of the gun under a high intensity spot light with a magnifiing glass. I found a big lump of epoxy primer to the side of the cavity that was the same color as the surrounding steel so it was impossible to see with a casual look. I shook the gun and and poked at the lump and could see tiny pieces crumbleing off the lump of dried up primer. I have a reason to believe now that the large specs were caused by not using the tack cloth and the fine specs were caused by this lump of primer in the gun. I will have to do another test panel to confirm this but I have an idea this was the culprit all along.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 04-02-2013, 04:10 PM
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The house keeping on your equipment is every bit as important as the house keeping you maintain in your painting area. Having a gun with dried up Epoxy inside could very well be causing your problems...running new material with new solvents through your gun while spraying will break down the Epoxy and look like dirt...I think it's safe to say that anyone who has painted for a while has left product that hardened in their gun...I know I have and had to use paint stripper to get it working again.

As far as your polishing goes, I've been using a kit from 3M that works well...it comes in a #1 compound, #2 machine polish, #3 ultra machine polish. The kit comes with three foam pads that are color coded to the color of material that your polishing with, a mandrel that allows you to use both sides of the foam polishing pads, several micro fiber towels and some show car detail glaze. I'm sorry I don't have a 3M part number but I'm sure your paint store would have a catalogue with a part number and price... I've been using this for just over 3 years now and have always had excellent results.

Ray
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Old 04-03-2013, 12:05 AM
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Just a suggestion to help in the future: As extra precaution against compressor oil getting into my paint, I have a filter/dryer and air hose dedicated exclusively to painting -- the hose is never disconnected from the filter/dryer.
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