I copied this from a forum about 3 years ago, hope it's the detail you need.
I HAVE AN 89 S-10 P/U WITH A LOOSE TILT STEERING COLUMN. I'VE BEEN
>> TOLD THAT I HAVE TO TIGHTEN 3 OR 4 LOOSE BOLTS AND NEED A SPECIAL
>> TOOL. I ALSO HAVE THE COMMON PROBLEM OF WIPERS GOING ON WITH THE TURN
>> SIGNALS OR WHEN EVER AND CRUISE SOMETIMES WORKING. IS THIS THE TIME TO
>> DO ALL THE REPAIRS AND WHERE CAN I FIND A DIAGRAM OR INSTRUCTIONS TO
>> LET ME KNOW WHAT I'M GETTING INTO AND GUIDE ME WHEN I'M LOST.
>
>
> Turn steering wheel 90 degrees.
> Pull off horn pad.
> Unplug horn wire that's attached to horn pad by turning
> counterclockwise.
> Remove Nadar clip from center column, sits above column nut. (If
> equipped)
> Remove column nut.
> Use steering wheel puller to pull wheel.
>
> Use lock plate compressor to depress lock plate and remove the
> circular spring steel lock plate retainer from around column shaft.
>
> Directly under the lock plate is a horn tower/turn signal cancelling
> cam, remove and lay aside in the order it came off and it's relative
> position although finding the correct position for reassemble is more
> than simple.
>
> There is a large column tension spring under the lock plate, it sits
> on a metal cap, not how it goes, it does not sit in the cap, it sits
> on top of it, make a note of it's position, it is essential that it be
> the same when reassembling.
>
> Remove 5 Phillips screws which includes 3 turn signal screws, 1 turn
> signal bridge screw and 1 from emergency flasher.
>
> Pull upward on turn signals, if harness doesn't have enough slack,
> remove lower column service panel, locate turn signal harness, unplug,
> feed upward while pulling on turn signal assembly.
>
> Remove key buzzer actuator with good needle nose, grab spring steel on
> bottom and pull.
>
> Remove ignition lock retainer, can be a T20 Torx, a common hex head or
> a Phillips screw. Sits just under lock in the middle, to the right of
> key buzzer contact.
>
> Remove 3 T30 bolts, 12 o'clock, 4 o'clock and 7 o'clock.
>
> Place tilt in full down mode.
>
> Pull upward on column lock housing over center column shaft and allow
> to hang. If wiper harness wire is tight, disconnect as you did for
> the turn signals.
>
> Remove the tilt arm from hell, you will receive 100 points if you
> remove it without gouging it, GM uses a thread locking compound on it.
> If they also used a thread locking compound on the 4, quarter inch
> star headed bolts that keep the column together, I would not be
> posting this. They use nothing.
>
> The lower plastic housing cap, the part that your tilt arms goes into
> will come off and a 2" link that sit atop the rod that controls the
> dim/bright function may fall out. This piece is important and it is
> also easy to reassemble so don't freak out, it is all logical. We'll
> get to that on reassembly, lay it aside and have some good orange
> grease for reassembly.
>
> Put the tilt in the full up position, with a large bladed Phillips
> screwdriver will remove the tilt tension spring that sits at 6 o'clock
> in the metal housing that you are looking at. The cap is shiny, it
> has a square hole in the center, put the Phillips blade in the square
> hole, the blade should be large enough that it will not actually go
> into the hole but the idea is to use the tool to depress the spring,
> twist to the left (counterclockwise) and relax. The spring will come
> out.
>
> Create an area where you can lay the tilt tension spring and
> everything else that comes off after this point, do it in stages, have
> everything in neat order. You have just begun another very important
> stage.
>
> Use a quarter inch driver to remove the fastener that is on the left
> of the metal housing, this fastener holds on the locking pin and keeps
> tension on it, note where the end hooks, it goes around the cut out
> portion at the lower tip of the locking pin. Also note how the curved
> part of the spring sits in the black plastic gear, either take a
> digital photo or draw a diagram of the position of each piece.
>
> With a small screwdriver, pop out the black plastic gear, remove the
> lock pin and remove the metal link that goes into the black plastic
> gear. Lay them neatly aside.
>
> On each side of the metal housing there is a tilt column pivot pin
> that is threaded in the center, they are simple to spot. Snap On
> sells a pivot pin remover for around $15. The thread in the pivot pin
> is exactly the same as the fastener that holds the locking pin
> tensioner in place, machine/fine. If you are careful and the pivot
> pins are not screaming tight, you can screw in the lock pin fastener,
> screw in about 7 or 8 threads, not tight, never tight, use a small
> carpenters claw hammer along with a flat bladed screwdriver and work
> each pin out. I have done this method hundreds of times befoe I
> purcased the pin puller but it's really good to have the right tool.
> Do not screw the locking pin fastener in tight because if it breaks
> off, it could be hell to remove, if you leave it loose then a simple
> awl with a good point will run it out. You can also make a puller
> after examining the situation. Lay the pivot pin neatly aside.
>
> Replace the tilt arm.
>
> Grab the tilt arm and pull backward releasing the gears from the steel
> position pin, pull rearward on the metal housing and slide it up and
> over the column shaft and allow to hang. If the metal housing does
> not want to come upward and off, gently tap the center shaft, this
> will free the outer bearing race from the upper column bearing pack.
> There are two bearing packs, each contain 14 bearings in a teflon
> cage, if everything is done correctly these bearings will remain where
> they should be but if they spill, use good grease to put them back
> together. If a bearing pack does fall out (rare) after repacking,
> notice a lip on the teflon cage, the lip goes in first contrary to
> what one would think.
>
> With the metal housing removed, you will notice a light metal gear,
> this is the rack gear, it needs a lot of grease on reassembly, fact is
> these gears break from lack of grease and when used on a loose column,
> they tend to bow and may slip off the rod that goes to the electrical
> ignition switch. In a pinch they can gently be straightened but the
> dealer sells them in a kit. The dealer at one time sold them for
> $2.75 just for the rack but when they decided to be creative, they put
> two new bearings, an outer, upper bearing race, a black plastic gear,
> a locking pin return spring and a locking pin return spring fastener.
> Sells for somewhere in the area of $20.
>
> Now that the metal housing is out of the way, you can see all 4 of the
> quarter inch star headed bolts. Once these bolts have been cleaned,
> coated with a good thread locking compound (blue) on the last quarter
> inch of each bolt and tightened down, not only will your column remain
> tight but other problems will disappear as well, such as the vehicle
> dying when you are driving and yank on the wheel and other simple
> things.
>
> The reason I had you turn the steering wheel 90 degrees before
> beginning is now you can tilt down the center shaft and remove it
> completely, lay aside. (after marking it at the top so you don't get
> it back on wrong; otherwise you would be driving with your steering
> wheel upside down) You really don't have to remove the center shaft,
> I do because then everything is totally out of my way and the bolts
> are not partially blocked, your option.
>
> Tighten the bolts using a good quarter inch socket with a quarter inch
> drive, trust me, this is the correct tool, if you purchase a quarter
> inch star socket, you have more money than you know what to do with
> and you wouldn't be reading this, you would take it to a column
> specialist.
>
> NEVER remove all 4 bolts at once because there is a hardened steel,
> threaded plate that the bolts go into and if the plate drops you may
> take a short trip to hell. Fact is, once the bolts are exposed,
> tighten the upper right bolt but not tight, just firm, remove the
> remaining 3, clean the last quarter inch of each, put the thread
> locking compound on each, replace and firm down. Then remove the
> upper right bolt and do the same. Now tighten each bolt very firmly,
> leaving the upper right bolt a little looser than the others as there
> is a design problem with the inner pot metal housing will crack in
> this area.
>
> Once the bolts are tightened, take a needlenose plier, grab the rod
> that the rack gear contacts and pull upward, we are doing this to make
> sure that the bolts are not too tight, check it by this method then
> see if the shifter works smooth with no restriction or tightness.
>
> Once this is done, reassembly is the reverse. If you laid everything
> out and in order, clean and neat, there should be no major problems.
>
> Inspect the center column shaft, you will notice that it is grooved,
> that there also is a double wide area which corresponds to a double
> wide area on the shaft. In other words, upon reassembly, it would be
> difficult and require undue force to get the lock plate on wrong and
> once the horn tower/cancel cam is in position, then the steering wheel
> will only go on the correct way unless you are unfortunate enough to
> be stuck with one of them dangerous aftermarket, fancy looking
> steering wheels that cost tons and can cause the death of anyone near,
> then just put the wheel on anyway you want and say a prayer everytime
> you drive. There are a few good aftermarket wheels out there but not
> many, race car drivers use them but the garden variety, you basically
> have to give up your horn function and ever being able to tighten down
> the steering wheel nut. The good thing about these crappy pot metal
> wheels is that when you need to pull one, just remove the little horn
> ring, use your finger to remove the nut and then simply lift the wheel
> off. This can save a tehcnician a minute or two of job time but
> frankly they are extremely dangerous.
>
> The above was the long method of tightening a loose Saginaw tilt
> column of your vintage, it is the correct procedure but in a pinch
> there is something that you can do that will help until you find the
> time or the means to do it the correct way:
>
> After the locking plate has been removed and the upper turn signal
> assembly pulled out of the way, you can, using a flashlight look down
> where the harness wires go, you can, by changing tilt positions see
> the right lower quarter inch star headed bolt and with an extension,
> just tighten it firmly, you will see your column being drawn back
> together and driving your vehicle will allow you to smile once again.
>
> Several notes: As usual there are methods that can get you by if you
> do not have the correct tools, for instance if you do not have a
> steering wheel puller you can, no matter what size you are, vibrate it
> off. Loosen the column nut but do not remove it, leave enough of it
> threaded so that when the wheel pops up, it will not hit you in the
> face. You have been warned. Find a good brace position with your
> legs and back, grab the wheel at 3 o'clock and at 9 o'clock but any
> opposing position will work. Begin by pulling with one hand and then
> pulling wiht the other, a rocking motion... then with the same amount
> of strength make your motion shorter and shorter, like a vibration,
> start off big and go smaller and if the wheel does not pop, change
> hand position and do it again. Usually the wheel will pop no matter
> what the year or make, no matter how long the wheel has been on. I
> have done this many times when in a hurry, seldom will it fail but
> then I am shooting myself in the butt because it will not work on a
> loose tilt so get a puller.
>
> As for the lock plate, without the compressor, you can use a sharp
> icepick or awl to start the retainer then work it up and off with two
> flat bladed screwdrivers, try not to bend it but it can be put back
> into shape if need be.
>
> To replace it, put the lock plate in position, start the retainer, a
> helper is good, use two large flat bladed screwdrivers to compress the
> plate then slide the retainer into position. I did it this way for
> several years and a few were tough but it can be done. I then bought
> some flat aluminum stock, heated it and bent legs, drilled a center
> hole and then used the column nut to compress the plate. That was a
> long time ago, now I use a Snap On plate compresser, it's one hell of
> a tool.
>
> As for the horn tower/cancel cam part, if the upper portion on the
> tower happens to break and the horn pad wire will not plug into it,
> use a knife file to create another slot on the opposite side at the
> same height, the repair will be stronger than the original, you just
> have to install the horn pad wire by turning in the opposite direction
> than normal but no consequences at all.
>
> Hope this helps, you may want to hire the job out depending on your
> mechanical ability. If I were to repair your particular vehicle,
> tighten the column it would take me between 25 and 30 minutes from
> start to finish. When I first started doing them over 20 years ago
> it took a bit longer.
>