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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2012, 02:46 PM
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Well it sounds like he had pressure and then lost it. But spin, I think your idea remains. Some of those aftermarket distributor hold-down forks are just garbage and you can never get them to stay tight for more than a couple weeks at a time. Could be it loosened up and allowed the distributor to pop out of the oil pump drive slot momentarily.

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Old 09-18-2012, 08:43 PM
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update

all right here we go, so i set the timing cranked it and nothing so i needed to drop the pan and pull the pump. when i pulled the pan off there was grey sediment at the bottom of the pan when i rub it between my thumb and finger it feels like sand but its finer than that i pulled the pump and took it apart i didnt see anything wrong with it but i did notice that the cover had swirl marks from the pump gears.

so i took the pump and the oil pan to the machinist that put the motor together he said the sediment felt like sand but other than that he wasnt sure what it was. he did say that he;s betting that it clogged the pump and thats what happened to the pressure. so now i have to tear down the motor and hot tank everything then mic everything. he did feel confident that with the limited run time at worse i'll probably need new bearings but everything else should be ok.

so although i really wanted to drive my car a few times before the winter i guess im on hold till the spring needless to say im really bummed out about it but i know it could have been worse

he asked me what i used for oil on my start up and i told him 10/40 he told me i should use a zinc break in suppliment with it next time, and that was an important step for initial start up. he also said i should use a straight 30 weight oil with it. i think i feel a good drunk coming on soon lol
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Old 09-18-2012, 09:00 PM
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All of that powdered metal came from somewhere. My bet is that you wiped the (flat-tapped) cam.

I feel your pain. Been there, done that.


If it's a flat-tappet cam, you really need to use a ZDDP additive, single valve-springs, etc... and follow the cam mfr's break-in directions to the letter.
This would include pre-lubing the engine thoroghly, ensuring that it fires up instantly, and varying your engine RPM in the range of 1500 to 2500 to ensure splash oiling.

There are LOTS of threads here on HR on this subject. Do a search for "ZDDP" or "break-in" or "camshaft failure" or "wiped lobe" and you'll see what I mean.

Last edited by 66GMC; 09-18-2012 at 09:11 PM.
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:19 AM
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Replace this intermediate shaft with this because the shaft is tapered to prevent binding so it will turn freely. The oil pressure went down to 0psi on my 406 and turn out the shaft was binding.


Last edited by lg1969; 09-19-2012 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:50 PM
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[QUOTE=lg1969;1592002]Replace this intermediate shaft with this because the shaft is tapered to prevent binding so it will turn freely. The oil pressure went down to 0psi on my 406 and turn out the shaft was binding.[QUOTE]

I dont understand what you mean "the shaft was binding" I would think if it was binding, you would break the shaft or strip the distributer gear.

Unless you mean it was hitting on the 400 crank throw?
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Old 09-19-2012, 03:21 PM
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[quote=Richiehd;1592054][QUOTE=lg1969;1592002]Replace this intermediate shaft with this because the shaft is tapered to prevent binding so it will turn freely. The oil pressure went down to 0psi on my 406 and turn out the shaft was binding.
Quote:

I dont understand what you mean "the shaft was binding" I would think if it was binding, you would break the shaft or strip the distributer gear.

Unless you mean it was hitting on the 400 crank throw?
Sorry for the misunderstanding. I used the wrong word. It's more like reducing the friction between shaft and the block if the rear journal is slightly off centered with the block. The collar is metal not nylon and it's attach to the shaft.

Last edited by lg1969; 09-19-2012 at 03:36 PM.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2012, 03:35 PM
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The orginal shaft I had in the block was so tight that the hand drill was smoking trying to prime the oil pump.
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S10 Racer View Post
If the pickup tube is located to high from the bottom of the pan, being 2 quarts low may be an issue but if the tube is where it should be (3/8") from the pan bottom, it should not give you indications of "0" oil pressure. If you are using a Fram oil filter, CHANGE IT!!! Get a Wix, Purolator or any other "good" filter.
What is wrong with a Fram filter. I have used them with no problems. I have a GMC so I am back to AC Delco.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2012, 04:29 PM
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drill

you need a 1/2 drill, once it picks up oil you need more than any regular drill can do. Also if it got that hard to turn you have oil pressure.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2012, 02:29 PM
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A fram filter is good for a stock pump that is not used for high performance. They are kind of weak with thin walls. Wix is a good economy filter. The K+N is the best. Thick walls and made of the best materials. A 1" nut welded on bottom to seat and release the filter. Even the rubber o ring is impressive and cannot blow out or shift.

My take on flat failure is different. I do not use zddp or even break in moly lube paste. Just 30 wt on cam. you turn the crank by hand while priming. Some people coat the lifter sides with paste and it impedes the rotation in the lifter bores. That will cause a failure.
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:47 PM
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engine

everyone is going all over the place on this.
It this a picture of your cam?
The pump shaft can not be "tight" there is no such thing.
Maybe you can tell me the whole story and I can help you.
All the oil filter info, the tight shaft, grey in the oil, 30 W oil, break in, oil pressure issues?? I am sure if I knew some facts I could help you.
I built race engines everyday for 35 years
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2012, 06:59 PM
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my next chance to get to the car and investigate more is monday so thats when i will start tearing it down. that pic is not my cam although that does sound like a plausible explanation. when i first started it up a few of the rockers where tight and needed to be backed off a bit and one of them was really tight and it did worry me a bit but after a while all seemed fine and i didnt think much of it after that.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:02 PM
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oil pump

I have a buick 430 wildcat with an external oil pump and after it sets for a month I always pull the dist. and prime the oil pump with a 3/8 drill and I have never had to use a 1/2 drive drill yes with presure it will only have a little resistance. If your drill was smoking then you have a pump with a gear problem.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:36 PM
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drill

your assuming he has a good drill I guess.
I assume he doesn't but there is more that sounds fishy here and your probably right..
The whole binding shaft stuff is weird, I suspect there is more to this story.
The explanations are lacking. He has had the pump apart and I suspect somethings up there.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2012, 07:01 PM
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i was able to start tearing down the motor today i didnt get the heads off but i did pull the intake and the rockers push rods and lifters it looks like #2 and #8 exhaust lobes are bad i cant see the cam yet but here is a few pics of what i found and a link to the album that has more for those who are interested

chevy lifters pictures by helrazr3 - Photobucket both of those pushrods were full of bad looking oil when i pulled them they were the only 2 that had oil inside them. i know the pics of the lifters arent that good there was a lot of glare when i was taking them but i guess you get the idea
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