[HemmiGremmie]

Well I finally ordered my 6-71 blower, Roller rockers, valve covers n @ Edelbrock 500cfm carbs.( I know there not the best, but affordable for now).
Anyways, I have some questions??

1. Do I need a hi volume water pump? I was told that they flow the water so fast that the Radiator dont have enuff time to cool the water.

2. I need the rear dump type headers like Hedmans S-10 type. I can get em for 139 bucks, but there not ceramic coated. Were can I get em coated at for the best price? Or does anybody sell the type Im looking for thats coated?

3. Do I Need a MSD box? My distributor is the MSD type that doesnt need one, but I do eventually want the type with the rev limiter n boost controll, but Im trying to save $'s for now to finish up the motor and getting the box later, but dont want to hurt the motor.

Im way amped up! Cant wait to take pics. HG

[66 T-Bird]

1. water pump: i've never heard of that but i'm a beginner and it makes sense, i have a high volume water pump on my car and i have no cooling problem at all but you have a lot more hp than me with a blower so you might have a cooling problem

[T-bucket23]

500 cfm sound a little small for a blower. I have a 750 on mine with a Weiand 142 blower on a chevy 350. A hih volume pump will move more water, however that can also cause thermostat opening issue, make sure you get one of the hi performance thermostats that are not effected buy water flow presure. Your carb will need to be richened up a couple numbers sizes and you should run a little colder spark plug. If it is a Holley you may have trouble, a Holley sitting on top of a blower will never open the power valve. Holley makes special carbs that have an external port that you connect to manifold vacuum to operate the power valve. As stated earlier that 500 is probably to small. The last thing you want on a blown engine is a lean condition or you will be building a new engine soon. I bought my carb from Stahle Performance on ebay and it works fine. It was just under 300 with shipping. You can buy a new on from arround 450 up. The one for 450 was in the Summit catalogue and I think it was a 650. Ignition timing also needs to be controled. You can start buy just backing it down and limiting the advance. That is what I did for now. I am planning an MSD boost retard box as one of this winters adders. I just installed a Weiand 142 and the power difference is awsome.
Good luck with it

Chet

[RCastle]

Dual 500's should be fine for a SBC blower motor. MSD makes an ignition box specifically for Supercharged engines.They adjust to the boost amount being made.From what I have heard though,you really have to psin a blown engine up to start building boost,unlike a turbo or centrifigual blower.
Places like Jet-Hot,will coat your headres if sent.Not sure if they ceramic coat or if it is a different type.I have not bought or checked into having any done either.
Keep at it,I am in the process of saving for my blown BBC project.

[T-bucket23]

Sorry I didnt see the s on carb I thought you were talking about 1 500 cfm.
I also see it is an Edelbrock so the power valve statement doesnt matter

[blown81]

I'll throw my $.02 in. I recently built my first blower motor and received a ton of information from this site. There's a few regulars here that can give you a lot more insite than me on blown motors, but I'll let you in on a few things I picked up on the way.

Question 1. Blowers create heat, plain and simple. General rule of thumb is that the bigger blowers will build less than the smaller ones because you don't have to spin them as fast as the smaller ones (there are other pros/cons that are too long to get in to here). I think I'd look in to an aluminum radiator before I spent the money on a high volume pump. Aluminum rad's cool a ton better than stockers.

Question 2 - Can't help a lot here. I'm running Hooker Competition's with 3" pipes all the way back. Seem to work fine for my (chevy) 383 with a 144.

Question 3 - If you've got the money, this is another good place to put it. As mentioned earlier, MSD makes a boost controled retard box that can save your engine from a dreded detonation meltdown. This is next on my list to install. I don't have quite as much concern as you because I'm running a small blower on a reletively large cubed engine. I'm staying down around 6 pounds of boost and can keep away from detonation with 94 octane fuel. You've got capacity with a 6-71 to easily get in to a detonation condition if you don't back timing off.

Understand the "can't wait" feeling. Last winter was my build time. Good Luck!