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Old 10-29-2007, 10:12 AM
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lots of paint questions

I've done searches on getting out orange peal, dust nibs, runs, etc. and they all say lightly sand clear coat and then buff with rubbing compound. So that is what I did. I went right through the bc/cc on 3 spots and the rest that I used the rubbing compound on has a dull finish. The best I got it to was a semi dull finish. I used 3M Perfectit III compound on a 5" wool pad attached to a drill. Now I know I used the wrong sand paper and a foam pad would have been better . I used 800 than 1200 but that was all the I could get on a Sunday.The lucky thing is that the only things I painted so far was the dash, firewall, door jams, and under side of the hoods. My questions are What is it supposed to look like when you use rubbing compound? Is it supposed to be as shinny as it was before you used it? Is gun distance and speed the cause of orange peal? Now to proceed from here, can I just re prime and repaint? Sorry for all the questions and thanks for all your help so far.

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Old 10-29-2007, 02:20 PM
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Remember painting is a science and don't give up! I've been painting for years and I sometimes rush and have to deal with some orange peel. Laying it on too thick is the usual cause, but buffing through usually means you don't have enough material on... I sand with 1000 initially. If it won't come out I drop to 800. I always end with 2000. I buff slowly with lamb'swool pad and 3M Finesse It and gradually go with finer compounds and new pads till I'm using the Imperial Microfinishing Compound on foam. I have finished with lamb'swool (as us oldtimers are used to it only!!) with no problems. If you did sand through, yes, sand with 800 and refinish base and clear. Get a good 2-3 coats of clear to buff with. (I always go 3-4 now...) Take it slow and be patient- your arms will get tired!! It looks hazy for a while but finer compounds give you the mirror gloss. If I'm not clear on anything- ask more- glad to help! DJ
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Old 10-29-2007, 06:06 PM
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To add to what Dragon said, first it sounds like you were not spraying the clear wet enough to sand through that fast.
Hold the gun closer to get more material on.
This is a common first time painter mistake is being gun shy, a small item like a dash is the perfect panel to practice on and try to see if you can lay it where you do not need to buff it.

Also, if you are using a Urethane clear the drill is not going to have enough ba+ls to buff that clear out and that is why the gloss has not come back yet.
Proper first step in your buffing process the paint needs to get to 110-120 degrees for maximum gloss and as you go to finer compounds for polishing they require less RPM and less heat.
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Old 10-30-2007, 07:13 AM
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If I'm understanding what the both of you are saying I should put more lighter coats, right? More coats to have more to sand if there's a problem and lighter so I don't get orange peel. I do have an air powered orbital sander but am scarred it would spin to fast and burn the paint. Should I be using that? I didn't know you wan't to get the paint hot. should I press harder as well? I was only using light to medium pressure. Is it possible to get a high gloss with Perfect-it III if the technique is right?
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Old 10-30-2007, 07:28 AM
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BarryK is the guy who is the pro about this stuff, but I think you could get the gloss with Perfect It III and a good buffer. I like to put on fairly heavy coats of clear but move fast enough and close enough not to get runs or peel... it is a practice thing...Depending on the RPM your orbital runs, it may or may not work- I like to start slow to work in the compound, 7.5 inch wool pad or better,then increase speed to about 2400RPM to kind of 'melt in' the compound. You can see it cut and feel it get hot- but care needs to be taken not to stay too long in one spot and 'burn' the paint- let the buffer do the work- don't force it. Hope this helps and BarryK may have more suggestions for you.

Last edited by Dragon J; 10-30-2007 at 08:07 AM.
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