Lots of Splotches in the Metallic- Should I Cut My Losses And Pay The Man? - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2009, 12:51 PM
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good point jack...always start at the begining when tring to trouble shoot a problem ,the thing you overlook will most likely be the cause.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2009, 04:13 PM
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Kinda surprised nobody said anything about Nason thru a 1.3 tip.

Main reason the "small" stuff looked good and then on the large areas splotched or DRY SPRAYED.
With a 1.3 you have to go slow and deliberate on large areas or complete vehicles as your not putting out enough product to COVER a LARGE area at the SPEED you THINK you should go at. Your pattern is going to be short and if you open up the fluid to compensate,your going to splotch or peel the base.
Add more air and your wasting paint. Your only going to get a SPECIFIC,CORRECT pattern out of that gun/tip combo. FIND IT!!!!
Do test sprays on paper 6-8" out till you get the gun making the best,tallest patern.Generally full open on the FAN knob or a 1/4 turn in from open and 2 3/4 on the fluid to start and I bet you won't be far from that when it's all said and done.
Air PSI. WHAT does the GUN recommend??? It have a REGULATOR??
Do NOT use a choke/cheater valve to adjust the psi on an HVLP gun.you WANT air FLOW and only a regulator can do that.
Make a pass on a lower rocker or someplace inconspicious and adjust the fliud to compensate for your speed in order to get decient coverage,likely a 1/4 turn more out on the fluid,your pass's will also be slower than you think.
OVERLAP. 60-75% for metallics.Think about this for a minuite.
When you do your test sprays,MEASURE the total HEIGHT of the pattern when it's right. Say it's 6",You realize you'll only move the gun approx 2" up or down for 75% overlap for the NEXT pass????.
Personally,I'd be looking for a 1.4 nozzle for that gun if you plan on painting a complete and ESPECALLY for the CLEAR.
Also,What base are you planning on this time?
Reason is,
If you plan on Chroma,I would go 800 on the final sand of the clear or red scotch pad the entire car because Chromabase won't fill scratchs for crap and your sanding HAS to be GOOD.Yes it IS an "easier" spraying base for metallics BUT, it's piss thin and will fall into ANY hole you have on the surface.
Your essentially doing a "blend" repair job shooting over the clear job and with it being "fresh" clear,your prone to solvent sand scratch swelling.
Nason on the other hand is thicker and does FILL better BUT,is a tougher shoot metallic wise.
Either way,allow LONGER flash time between coats.
When sprayig Chroma I will either do as above or shoot a coat of intercoat clear FIRST as this will fill any sanding scratchs and make the metallic base smoother and easier to lay down.

Last edited by Bee4Me; 10-15-2009 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 10-15-2009, 05:23 PM
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Guys, thanks for all the great advice.
Bee4Mee, you're right about the 1.3 tip. I did some test sprays on an old door and the 1.3 tip worked better than the 1.4 tip but things were different on a horizontal surface.
I do have a regulator at the gun that ran best at 35psi. My compressor had no trouble keeping up.
When I was spraying a large surface, I had the fluid set wide open and actually had to slow my passes down or the paint went on too dry and thin and the light and heavy spots would get worse. The spray pattern was set 3/4 of a turn open from fully closed. If I opened it further, the center of the pattern would be light and the edges heavy, just the opposite if it was closed more than 3/4 of a turn. I was holding the gun about 6"-8" from the surface.
I tried the criss cross pattern on the hood but it actually made the blen even worse.
I was following the manufacturers recommendation of 1:1 ratio with the reducer. Maybe I should have adjusted that.
I only messed with the 1.4 tip on both the base and the clear when I was 1st dialing the gun in but the 1.3 seemed to work better at the time.
I only over lapped 50%, maybe I should had done 75%.
The sun is shining right now, so I think I'll pull it outside and see what it looks like.
I took the gun apart after every session and saw no paint buildup inside. I did have to tighten the needle packing when I 1st set up the gun, after that, I had no issues with splatter.
You'll see that I only have 3 or 4 posts but I've been reading on this forum since around June. It's a great site.
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Old 10-15-2009, 05:37 PM
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Oops, Did I forget to tell you to hold the gun at least a foot (12"-24")from the surface when you fog the criss cross ? and thats after the three coats of base is on...
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Old 10-16-2009, 11:50 AM
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so your saying you had the fluid wfo and the fan at 3/4 open?
Something is wrong here.
I got to do some thinking about this as to why,could be the air cap holes next to the nozzle opening are blocked and the fan is blowing it out.

Thought a little about it.
You set the gun up EXACTLY as I said previously and do some test sprays and give us the results.Full pull on the trigger for 1 second and release.
If it's not "close",you have gun issues.

You cut the fan off and with the fluid wfo,should have one,nasty,running,circle,at your spraying distance.
You open the fan back up to full with full fluid and you'll likely blow it out as it's WAY too WET from all the fluid and the fan is just helping push it out.

I've not sprayed any of the low VOC stuff so I have no idea what it's consistency is.I've sprayed about everything thru most any style gun and ALWAYS been able to achieve a good pattern IF the GUN if functioning properly and the AIR is the proper amount REQUIRED for the gun used.
Yeah,I may have to adjust the product ratio for the prefered finish due to the gun's "characteristics",But still with those base settings,had a good starting point.

Last edited by Bee4Me; 10-16-2009 at 04:58 PM.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2009, 05:46 PM
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I dont reduce Nason Ful-base 1:1 It's to thin and dont cover well,Plus the metalics lay down and look like crap,I believe this is the problem.... its ez to splotch if you get it to heavy and its thin, like if you hit the mirror and your hand stops with the trigger wide open. I go 2 parts color 1 part reducer and add more reducer if needed it's usually right on though. I,ve been using Ful-base for ten years or so,(along with chroma base,mixed like it says),and you cant tell which is which...all settings on my gun are wide open ,ALWAYS ,even for clear but I move faster or slower depending on the variables when it's hot I go slower and speed up as it gets colder,along with different temp reducers and hardners, I feather the trigger for complete control of the fluid,I've always painted this way,it works for me but other painters just cant understand how I can do it this way.I just do it,always have,self taught,just watched...I've been told a hundred times I'm doing it wrong.I just laugh and say I wish you told that 35 yrs ago....thicken up your Nason or go with chroma base, but that stuff is high...since you already have the Nason I'd try it again and learn a little more insted of tring something else you never used...dont try to make base shine its supposed to look dull, it evens out as it dries,its hard to get used to. I use a toothpick sharpend on sanding block with 180 grit paper to get the cap holes clean but a Sata rarely plugs up....
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