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Old 03-08-2007, 10:52 AM
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low drag caliper replacement

hey guys, does anyone know of a replacement front caliper that is not a low drag caliper. these are on the front suspension i got from tci. there tech people told me they were 82 to 87 camaro calipers for their 11 in brakes. i don't the pads releasing .025 to .030 from rotor. as a non low drag caliper releases about .003 of an inch. i am trying to achieve a higher pedal. i have chased the problem all the way to this. i am hoping that there is a caliper that will bolt right up without changing the mounting bracket. hope someone can help. thanks

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Old 03-08-2007, 11:00 AM
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put a 2 lbs residual valve in the front brake line wildwood make them for this problem.it does not cause any more drag on the pads it just keeps the seals from over retracting.
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Old 03-08-2007, 11:32 AM
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Seems like all of those metric calipers act like that.

The 2# doesn't always do the trick. Use a 10#

The wilwoods never test out at their rating anyway, so a 10# usually closes at 5 or 6#.

I've used a 10# on several cars with that exact same problem, and had no drag at all.

You may want to try an 1 1/8" master cylinder, (if you are running power brakes), that makes a big difference in pedal feel with the TCI setups.

Later, mikey
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Old 03-08-2007, 12:09 PM
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thanks guys,
i have a 2# wilwood residual in line now. i will have to try the 10#
thank again
Randy
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Old 03-08-2007, 03:30 PM
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Another good place to look for info is www.mpbrakes.com. Read their technical section. In the trouble shooting article there are tips on what causes a low/high pedal, low/high effort, and what to do about it.
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Old 03-09-2007, 09:40 AM
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What kind of master cylinder are you using? Low drag calipers were used with "quick take-up" master cylinders. These cylinders had a step bore in them.
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:06 PM
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yeh I know, I just found out. I bought the front suspension with these calipers on it from Total Cost Involved. Of coarse the sales person. did not inform me or sell me the right one. Anyway that is a whole new story.
I really wish I coud find a non low drag caliper that would bolt right up without changing a bunch of things. I would put them on it. thanks
Randy
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:34 PM
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Could be mistaken, but are't the Corvette 4 wheel manual disk M/C's low drag?

Vince
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Old 03-09-2007, 02:34 PM
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I went through all this stuff on 3 other cars.

Go down to your parts store, look in the book. Many of those years metric calipers get the same part #, 78 and up midsize with the 2 3/8 piston. None that I found were used with step bore MC. None were called "low drag".

I read all the stuff on the masterpower website also, and printed it all out. That is how I found out about the low drag calipers myself. That is the first time I'd ever heard of it.


Every TCI brake setup I have dealt with, ( about 10 different cars now), has had a lousy pedal ratio for the brakes they spec. It requires about 3/4- 1" pedal travel with the 1" master that they include with most of their frames and brake pedal assemblies to actuate those metric calipers when they retract .020-.030" after releasing the pedal.

If your brakes are power, with the 7" booster put a 1 1/8 master cylinder and with about 18" of vacuum you should be able to generate 1300 psi at the caliper with 140# pedal pressure. This should happen at about .875" of pushrod travel at the master cylinder. The 1" master cylinder that was installed in that car would not move enough fluid to lock the brakes at any speed. That is why, after installing a 10# RPV (that tested out @ 6#), we tried the 1 1/8" bore.

1970 corvette power brake MC.

I should note that if you are using drums in the rear, you can probably stay with the 1". The last 2 that I did had disc in the rear.



Those numbers are from the data I collected on the last 34 ford with a TCI stage 4 frame that I built. I thought that I should probably keep track of it in case someelse needed to know.

Try the 10 # RPV.
Let us know.


Later, mikey
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Old 03-09-2007, 06:42 PM
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Low-drag calipers didn't start till '83 so you should be good with any '78-'82 calipers. However just like Mike said I think most of the rebuilding places have mixed them all up so they have less part #'s to deal with. They might have even machined the seal grove on the older ones to the steeper angle of the low-drag calipers. I think the easiest thing to do would be to put in a step-bore master cylinder. They provide for a nice firm pedal, without too much effort and are pounds lighter to boot. You could even polish one up to make it look all spiffy it you wanted

If you don't mind spending some more $$$ give Wilwood a call and ask to talk to one of their engineers about their aluminum metric calipers. They might be what you are looking for
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-...-GMM/index.asp
You might also try calling Howe about theirs http://www.howeracing.com/Braking/In...ton-Metric.htm
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Old 03-11-2007, 05:25 PM
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Well guys, the 10# residual did not work in my case with 4wheel disc brakes it give me too much drag. And I had already tried the 1 1/8 bore m/c. Neither cured the low pedal. Because I was looking at the wrong end of the car. So I put the 2# res. back in place. After plugging the m/c port going to the front, still, pedal half way to the floor. Hooked them back up and plugged port to rear then i got a full pedal. Found out that the problem is in the rear with those great caddy brakes w\e-brake. I am lost. I have evidently done something wrong in bleeding and adjusting the e-brake. Even bled them taking them off mount and leaning them back to be sure all air was out. I have yet to feel the e-brake ratchet. Are you suppose to feel it ratchet when adjusting them? Has anyone else had experience with these. HELP
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Old 03-11-2007, 06:02 PM
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Don't you hate it when you're chasding a problem out of something that works right? ( you did initially say that you had chased it down to the front...those things always seem to run in circles around the car )

IIRC activating the E brake is what adjusts those caddy brakes.

I put 1 set on a car about 7 years ago and my memory is fading on them.

Try doing a search here for "caddy brake adjustment", or look in the knowledge base.

Later, mikey

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Old 03-11-2007, 06:32 PM
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I found something that might help you..
From the carquest website.
http://www.carquest.com/common/downl...BrakeT1008.pdf

Later, Mikey
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Old 03-11-2007, 10:15 PM
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Thanks mikey
thanks for the website. I have done all of this before and now again one more time adjusting, pressure bleeding etc. still half pedal. funny while pressure bleeding the front. the pads locked the rotor while pressure was applied. but not on the rear. i have 3/16 line going to the rear. think if this was 1/4 it would make that much differance? I have the adjustable wilwood proportion valve adjusted all the way in then back out a 1/4. is this right? i don't know guess i will either live with it or take it to someone
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Old 03-11-2007, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maninacoupe
Thanks mikey
thanks for the website. I have done all of this before and now again one more time adjusting, pressure bleeding etc. still half pedal. funny while pressure bleeding the front. the pads locked the rotor while pressure was applied. but not on the rear. i have 3/16 line going to the rear. think if this was 1/4 it would make that much differance? I have the adjustable wilwood proportion valve adjusted all the way in then back out a 1/4. is this right? i don't know guess i will either live with it or take it to someone
-Brake line size won't matter within reason.
-All the way in will be full brake pressure to the rear so that sounds like a good place to start. However I think I'd use a coupler to by-pass the valve just to rule it out for sure.
-I bet the calipers you got are bad. I have heard about people going through many sets of rebuilt calipers in order to get 1 working set.
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